The Mathematical and Parameterized Expressions for Wave Induced Excess Flow of Momentum

Wave induced excess flow of momentum(WIEFM)is the averaged flow of momentum over a wave period due to wave presence,which may also be called 3-D radiation stress.In this paper,the 3-D current equations with WIEFM are derived from the averaged Navier-Stokes equations over a wave period,in which the velocity is separated into the large-scale background velocity,the wave particle velocity and the turbulent fluctuation velocity.A concept of wave fluctuating layer(WFL)is put forward,which is the vertical column from the wave trough to wave ridge.The mathematical expressions of WIEFM in WFL and below WFL are given separately.The parameterized expressions of WIEFM are set up according to the linear wave theory.The integration of WIEFM in the vertical direction equals the traditional radiation stress(namely 2-D radiation stress)given by Longuet-Higgins and Stewart.     

次声波在海啸灾害预警中的应用探讨

介绍了次声波的基本物理概念和次声波的传播特性,概述了次声波的研究现状,提出了利用次声波来预警海啸灾害的建议,并对其可行性进行了分析。     

多种数字海洋地理环境信息的融合与可视化的局部实现

以潮汐、潮流和海浪数值的计算技术和数字海底地形模型的构造方法为基础,应用层次细节模型和三维渲染技术,完成了近岸海洋环境保障的多种数字海洋地理环境信息的融合与可视化的局部实现,为今后此领域的研究提供了理论和经验基础。     

基于潜标观测的黑潮-亲潮混合区近惯性能量季节变化特征研究

近惯性内波广泛存在于全球海洋,是维持深层海洋跨等密度面湍流混合及海洋层结的重要能量来源。基于黑潮-亲潮混合区的多年深海潜标数据,分析了:(1)该海域近惯性内波及其能量的季节变化特征与影响因素,(2)上层和深层近惯性运动的频率、波数谱及垂向分布等特征。结果表明,该海域存在丰富的近惯性动能,无论海洋上层还是深层均呈现显著的冬季强、夏季弱的季节变化特征,冬季(12～2月)上层的近惯性能量可占全年能量的41%,深层近惯性信号同样显著,同潮汐信号相当。平板模型分析表明,该区域近惯性动能的季节循环特征主要受风场的季节变化所主导,同时受到黑潮延伸体流轴的摆动调制。     

波浪作用下孔隙海床-管线动力相互作用分析

波浪作用下海床中的孔隙水压力与有效应力是影响海底管线稳定性的主要因素。然而,在目前的海床响应分析中一般将管线假定为刚性,并不能合理地考虑海床与管线之间的相互作用效应,同时也没有考虑土体和管线加速度对海床动力响应的惯性影响,从而无法确定由此所引起的管线内应力。为此考虑管线的柔性,分别采用饱和孔隙介质的Biot动力固结理论和弹性动力学理论列出了海床与管线的控制方程,进而采用摩擦接触理论考虑海床与管线之间的相互作用效应,基于有限元方法建立了海床-管线相互作用的计算模型及其数值算法。通过变动参数对比计算讨论了管线几何尺寸、海床土性参数对波浪所引起的管线周围海床孔隙水压力和管线内应力的影响。     

海浪周期关系的研究

本文利用现场观测数据、实验室风浪槽观测数据和由文氏谱及JONSWAP谱生成的模拟数据,研究了有效周期与谱平均周期、谱峰周期与谱平均周期以及有效周期与谱峰周期的关系,通过数据拟合给出了相应的关系式.研究发现,有效周期与由谱的负阶矩计算的平均周期之间的关系更加稳定,并且有效周期与负2阶矩计算的平均周期几乎相等,均代表了海浪主导波对海浪平均周期的贡献.     

Numerical modelling of deformation of multi-directional random waves over a varying topography

Two numerical formulations of the breaking phenomenon were implemented in a numerical model for random wave propagation based on the elliptic formulation of the mild-slope equation. The randomness of the wave field was simulated based on a spectral component method, in which the 3-D spectrum is discretised in components of equal energy. One of the breaking process formulations is based on the concept of breaking each independent spectral component. The other is based on the distribution of the local amount of energy dissipated through the independent spectral components. The model based on the concept of breaking each independent spectral component produces the best estimates of the wave field, when the numerical results are compared with laboratory data.     

Internal generation of waves: Delta source function method and source term addition method

In this study, we investigate two internal wave generation methods in numerical modeling of time-dependent equations for water wave propagation, i.e., delta source function method and source term addition method, the latter of which has been called the line source method in literatures. We derive delta source functions for the Boussinesq-type equations and extended mild-slope equations. By applying the fractional step splitting method, we show that the delta source function method is equivalent to the source term addition method employing the energy velocity. This suggests that the energy velocity should be used rather than the phase velocity for the transport of incident wave energy in the source term addition method. Finally, the performance of the delta source function method is verified by accurately generating nonlinear cnoidal waves as well as linear waves for horizontally one-dimensional cases.     

Experimental Investigation of Instantaneous Properties of Wave Slamming on the Plate

The purpose of this paper is to investigate the instantaneous properties of wave slamming on the plate structure of an open structure.The advanced instantaneous measuring technique-Particle Image Velocimetry(PIV) is applied to acquire the instantaneous velocity field of wave slamming.From the cross-correlation analysis results of the images captured by the CCD camera,the flow fields of wave impacting on the structure are displayed visually,and the instantaneous whole-field fluid velocity vectors are obtained.The relation between the instantaneous peak impacting pressures and the instantaneous velocities of water particles is studied by probability analysis.     

完全非线性波浪破碎模型沿岸流数值模拟

探讨一种基于完全非线性Boussinesq方程的波浪破碎模型在沿岸流计算中的应用问题。针对控制方程中的完全非线性项对沿岸流成长过程的影响进行了深入讨论。数学模型计算结果表明,完全非线性项有使平均流局部化的作用;通过数模实验还发现,垂向高阶涡度项可以有效抑制破波区外回流;运用Visser的实验室沿岸流实测资料从沿岸流速度、波高和平均水位几方面对所提模型进行了验证,并给出了紊动参数的计算结果。