Numerical modelling of deformation of multi-directional random waves over a varying topography

Two numerical formulations of the breaking phenomenon were implemented in a numerical model for random wave propagation based on the elliptic formulation of the mild-slope equation. The randomness of the wave field was simulated based on a spectral component method, in which the 3-D spectrum is discretised in components of equal energy. One of the breaking process formulations is based on the concept of breaking each independent spectral component. The other is based on the distribution of the local amount of energy dissipated through the independent spectral components. The model based on the concept of breaking each independent spectral component produces the best estimates of the wave field, when the numerical results are compared with laboratory data.     

1990s年代际转型前后南海季风系统的季节变化

利用多变量经验正交分解(MV-EOF)等方法,研究了在季节变化尺度上南海季风系统的时空分布特征。结果表明:南海夏季风的爆发时间在1993—1994年前后存在显著的年代际转型,由爆发偏晚转变成爆发偏早。第一模态表现为冬夏反位相的年周期变化,但爆发早年夏季风持续时间略长于爆发晚年,空间上都反映了南海中央海盆区的夏季强降水和850 hPa上南海北部的气旋性环流异常,但夏季风爆发早年中国华南沿海降水加强而南海南部降水偏少。相应的大范围环流场上主要反映了南海夏季风爆发后进入盛夏时节亚太地区大范围的环流特征,南海夏季风爆发偏早年索马里越赤道气流偏强,东亚季风槽位置偏北,爆发偏晚年则相反。第二模态反映了南海季风系统春秋反位相的季节变化,且秋季的振幅更强,空间降水场上对应着秋季华南沿海和南海北部与南海中南部北旱南涝的跷跷板式分布,850 hPa风场上则主要表现为异常的东北季风,该模态时空特征表明南海夏季风爆发偏早年的秋季,冬季风建立也偏早,越南及周边地区的降水偏多。相应的大范围环流场上则主要反映了冬季风的环流特征,在南海夏季风爆发偏早年的秋季,菲律宾以东的热带对流减弱,PJ波列增强,爆发晚年则相反。     

基于扩散滤波的多尺度三维变分研究

将扩散方程引入三维变分分析,揭示了传统3D-VAR不能有效提取多尺度观测信息的根本原因,即观测导致的目标函数梯度在空间的不连续分布.将扩散滤波融入基于梯度的最优化算法,发展了基于扩散滤波的多尺度3D-VAR.海表面温度数据同化试验结果表明,新方法可从长波至短波有效地提取多尺度的观测信息.     

完全非线性波浪破碎模型沿岸流数值模拟

探讨一种基于完全非线性Boussinesq方程的波浪破碎模型在沿岸流计算中的应用问题。针对控制方程中的完全非线性项对沿岸流成长过程的影响进行了深入讨论。数学模型计算结果表明,完全非线性项有使平均流局部化的作用;通过数模实验还发现,垂向高阶涡度项可以有效抑制破波区外回流;运用Visser的实验室沿岸流实测资料从沿岸流速度、波高和平均水位几方面对所提模型进行了验证,并给出了紊动参数的计算结果。     

连云港近岸海域物理自净能力研究及水质预测——Ⅲ.西大堤建成后对物质输运的影响

在连云港近岸海域计算潮流场基础上建立拉格朗日余流模型,并对连云港市两大堤建成前后的拉格朗日余流变化进行了分析,且选择有代表性的排污口进行了数值跟踪。     

南海东北部C型内孤立波的观测与分析

基于布放在南海东北部陆坡海域的5套潜标观测到的内孤立波波列数据和孤立波扰动KdV(PKdV)理论,研究内孤立波在趋浅陆架上的传播特征。得出如下结果:1)观测到的内孤立波属于C型内孤立波,即平均重现周期为(23.41±0.31)h。2)内孤立波在西传爬坡过程中,其振幅表现为先增大后减小再增大,与该海域温跃层深度的变化趋势一致;由观测数据和理论计算得到的孤立波振幅增长率(SAGR)数值接近,表明该海域的内孤立波的振幅变化可以采用由孤立波PKdV方程导出的趋浅温跃层理论来描述。3)随着水深变浅,内孤立波传播方向向北偏移,传播速度减小,即在A,B和D站位,传播方向分别为279°,296°和301°,偏转角度达22°;传播速度分别为2.36,2.23和1.47 m/s,减小38%。     

斜坡平台波浪破碎数值模拟

波浪在斜坡地形上破碎,破波后稳定波高多采用物理模型试验方法进行研究,利用近岸波浪传播变形的抛物型缓坡方程和波能流平衡方程,导出了适用于斜坡上波浪破碎的数值模拟方法。首先根据波能流平衡方程和缓坡方程基本型式分析波浪在破波带内的波能变化和衰减率,推导了波浪传播模型中波能衰减因子和破波能量流衰减因子之间的关系;其次,利用陡坡地形上的高阶抛物型缓坡方程建立了波浪传播和波浪破碎数学模型;最后,根据物理模型试验实测数据对数值模拟的效果进行验证。数值计算与试验资料比较表明,该模型可以较好地模拟斜坡地形的波浪传播波高变化。     

分层海洋的内孤立波

本文从流体力学基本方程组出发,在非地转条件下导得了分层海洋的内孤立波方程—Kbv和mKdv方程,证实了在非地转条件下,一类海洋非线性波动是可以严格满足内孤立波方程的。在地转条件下采用f平面近似导出了KdV方程的演化形式一有源KdV方程,地转的影响含于源项中。由初步的分析得出,f对KdV方程的影响是微弱的。由已得的KdV和mKdV方程的解可知,内孤立波与线性波有着本质差别。     

Fluid flow equations governing primary oil migration as a separate phase

A mathematical model of primary oil migration as a separate phase out of compacting shales is presented. During burial and oil generation, source rock porosity decreases and oil saturation increases until residual oil saturation is reached. At this stage oil is expelled out by capillary and excess fluid pressure gradients. The model is a system of differential equations which relate changes in oil and water saturation in time to water and oil flow out of the source rock during burial. An additional set of equations for periods of erosion of overburden are also provided. The equations can be numerically solved by finite difference method. If oil and water flow is to be simulated during oil generation, then at each time step, changes by oil generation in oil and water saturations and porosity must be calculated. The solution procedure is briefly outlined.     

A General Linear Wave Theory for Water Waves Propagating over Uneven Porous Bottoms

Starting from the widespread phenomena of porous bottoms in the near shore region, considering fully the diversity of bottom topography and wave number variation, and including the effect of evanescent modes, a general linear wave theory for water waves propagating over uneven porous bottoms in the near shore region is established by use of Green‘s scond identity. This theory can be reduced to a number of the most typical mild-slope equations curreutly in use and provide a reliable research basis for follow-up development of nonlinear water wave theory involving porous bottoms.