Action of Cnoidal Waves on Vertical Walls

Based on the 2nd order cnoidal wave theory, the characters of shallow water standing waves and their action on vertical walls are studied in this paper. The theoretical expressions of the wave surface elevation in front of and the wave pressure on the vertical wall are obtained. In order to verify the theoretical results, model tests were made in the State Key Laboratory of Coastal and Offshore Engineering at DUT. For the wave surface elevation in front of the wall and the wave forces on the wall at the moment when the wave surface at the wall surface goes down to the bottom of the wave trough, the calculated results coincide quite well with the experimental results. For the wave forces on the wall at the moment when the wave surface at the wall surface goes up to the top of the wave crest, the theoretical expressions are modified by the experimental results. For the convenience of practical use, calculations are made for the wave conditions which usually occur in enginering practice by use of the inves     

Characteristic analysis on oxygen isotopic tracer in the East China Sea and waters to east of the Ryūkyū-guntō

Samples of O isotopic tracer were mlleMed at Sections P₃,P₂₅,P_cM-t/2-E and P_CM-1/2.w in both the Fast China Sea and the area to the east of the Ryūkyū-gunto during October-November,1991.Analytical results of the δ¹⁸O are as follows: (1) In the Kuroshio area,the δ¹⁸O isolines are almost parallel to the 200 m isobath.The value of δ¹⁸O is negative and reaches minimum mt the main axis of the Kuroshio,and increases on both sides.(2) In the Taiwan Warm Current (TWC) area there is a high δ¹⁸O tongue extending to the northeast.(3) In the area near the coast,the distribution of δ¹⁸O isoline shows that the Changjiang River runoff diffuses seaward and the land-ocean isotopic effect from the nearshore to the offshore.(4) The values of δ¹⁸O are from -1.0×10^-3 to -0.5×10^-3 in the shelf.(5) There is a low mre of δ¹⁸O value(<-1.6×10^-3) at the 600 m layer in the Kuroshio area,which is quite in accord with the existence of a low salinity mre (S G 34.30) between the 600 and 800 m layers in the same area.Finally,the mrrelations of the δ¹⁸O with the salinity and temperature,the upwelling and so on are discussed.     

使用水块混合层模式模拟上层海洋的季节变化

使用块体混合层模式对一个固定海洋观测站所测的上层海洋之物理特性进行了模拟，结果发现了难以重复观测到的许多物理特征。文章提出了水块混合层模式，着重模拟了扩展湾流体系（ＥＧＳＳ）中的一个水块，在它被海流从佛罗里达海峡（２４°Ｎ，８０°Ｗ）带到挪威海（６８°Ｎ，１０°Ｅ）的过程中，其物理特性（其中包括温度、盐度、混合层深度和夹卷速度）随时间的变化。模拟结果较好地再现了所观测的物理特性的演化。     

胶州湾海域水质预测

在已建潮流模型的基础上,用ADI法建立了胶州湾扩大域变动边界的平流—扩散输运模型,以COD为指示因子,预测了胶州湾海域1995年、2000年的水质、青岛环海公路海上段、沧口区北半部污水截流、北水南调、集中排放以及胶州湾西部经济开发对海域水质的影响等。为青岛市环保部门制定环保规划提供决策依据。     

季节内SST和混合层深度变化的模式研究

用Niiler—Kraus类型的混合层积分模式,对TOGA—COARE强化观测期间由《实验3号》科学考察船观测资料得到的混合层深度和SST在季节内时间尺度的变化进行了模式研究。指出:1.混合层耗散参数与较长时间尺度过程风应力的变化存在着比较好的对应关系;2.模式可以较好的对风场和热通量场在季节内时间尺度的变化作出响应,模拟出季节内时间尺度SST的变化;3.Niiler,-Kraus模式在考虑耗散作用后,可用于海洋季节内时间尺度变化的模式研究。     

Numerical Simulation of Residual Circulation due to Bottom Rouglmess Variability Under Tidal Flows in A Semi-Enclosed Bay

Nowadays there are some chronic serious environmental problems, such as eutrophication, blue tide and so on, in a complicated coastal zone or a semi-enclosed bay, because the water exchanges between an inner bay and an outer sea is weak compared with the supply of contaminant. Under this situation, a method to improve the water quality by 3-dimensional small unsymmetrical structures has been proposed by Komatsu et al. In this paper, several numerical simulations of the tidal current and concentration for various arrangements of bottom roughness in a semi-enclosed model bay are carfled out with a depth-averaged 2-D numerical model. The model is solved by the hybrid finite analytic method with nonstaggered grid. And the SIMPLES algorithm with Rhie and Chow＇ s momentum interpolation technique is used for the simulation. The effect of Komatsu＇ s method for water purification is examined by numerical simulation. The result of numerical experiment indicates that it is possible to generate a new tidal residual current and to activate a tidal exchange by bottom roughness arrangement only.     

Simulation of green water flow on deck using non-linear dam breaking theory

Experiments carried out with models of floating production, storage and offloading platforms (FPSOs) showed that the flow of water over the deck edge, onto the deck resembled a suddenly released wall of water rather than a breaking wave. Therefore green water flow onto the deck was simulated using dam breaking theory, but the theory’s shallow-water assumptions may be limiting. In this paper a non-linear dam breaking problem is formulated. Equations of motion in the Lagrangian form are used and the solution is sought as an infinite series in time. Comparisons with the shallow water approximation are carried out.     

Distribution of Boron in Some Egyptian Aquatic Environments

Concentrations of boron in seawater (from four regions along the Alexandria coastline, subjected to land disposal), brackish water (Lake Edku) and drains water (e.g. El-Umum Drain) were determined during the period from February to August 2000. Boron was determined spectrophotometrically by a modified curcumin method. For Lake Edku, boron concentration fluctuated between 0.023 and 0.105 mmol/l. There are several factors that affect the concentration of B in the Lake water: (a) effect of the drainage water via El-Khairy and Barsiek Drains, (b) utilization of boron by hydrophytes, and (c) water exchange through the sea-lake connection. It may be concluded that the level of boron in the Lake water cannot be considered a substantial hazard to the Lake organisms. Boron concentration varied from 0.392 to 0.522 mmol/l in seawater samples and from 0.141 to 0.458 mmol/l in the sites where the water from the drains (El-Umum Drain and El-Noubaria Canal) mixed with the seawater. The broader variation of boron (mmol/l)/salinity ratios for seawater samples (0.0106–0.0138) may be due to that the samples were collected from the upper seawater layers, where contributions from land run-off, atmospheric precipitation and differences in the biota affect the concentration. This revised version was published online in July 2006 with corrections to the Cover Date.     

秋季东海黑潮锋面涡旋的特点

本文根据１９８８年１０月２０～２４日“向阳红０９号”调查船在奄美大岛以西海区进行调查时，在陆架斜坡上的表均温层的底部，即５０ｍ附近的深层上，出现一个黑潮锋面涡。不论在平面上形成的特点，还是在断面上水系配置的形式，它与春季黑潮锋面涡的特征极为相似。说明秋季东海同样存在陆架水与黑潮水在水平方向交换与混合。     

The Nonlinear Wave Force on a Circular Cylinder in Shallow Water

Based on the 1st order cnoidal wave theory, the nonlinear wave diffraction around a circular cylinder in shallow water is studied in this paper. The equation of the wave surface around the cylinder is formulated and by using this formula the wave surface elevation on the cylinder surface can be obtained. In this paper, the formula for calculating the cnoidal wave force on a circular cylinder is also derived. For the wave conditions which are often encountered in practical engineering designs, the ratios of the nonlinear wave forces to the linear wave forces are calculated, and the results are plotted in this paper for design purposes. In order to verify the theoretical results, model tests are conducted. After comparing the test results with the theoretical ones, it is concluded that, in shallow water, for the case of T g / d~(1/2) > 8-10 and H / d > 0.3, the cnoidal wave theory should be used to calculate the wave action on a cylindrical pier.