The statistical distribution of nearbed wave orbital velocity in intermediate coastal water depth

The statistical distribution of wave orbital velocity in intermediate coastal water depth has been quantitatively determined from the comprehensive field velocity data collected near the seabed in this study. Two ocean ADV current meters, which were mounted at 0.5 m above the seabed on two separate stainless steel tripods sitting on the seabed, were used to measure instantaneous water particle velocities at a 2 Hz sampling rate for 17.07 min every hour in two coastal water depths of 11 m and 23 m in nine field deployments over a period of 2 years. The zero-crossing method is applied to analyse the field velocity data collected in each field deployment to obtain a large sample of wave orbital velocity amplitudes of individual waves. Based on the collected field velocity data, it is found that the histogram of instantaneous wave orbital velocities perfectly follows the Gaussian distribution as commonly assumed, while the histogram of wave orbital velocity amplitudes is less accurately described by the Rayleigh distribution than the modified Rayleigh and the Weibull distribution. It is also found that large orbital velocity amplitudes are generally overestimated by the Rayleigh distribution, but well predicted by the modified Rayleigh and the Weibull distribution. The expected value of maximum orbital velocity in a velocity record of finite size is also derived from the three distributions and found to agree well with the present field data.     

Large-scale laboratory measurements of solitary wave inundation on a 1:20 slope

The run-up flow and related pressure of solitary waves breaking on a 1:20 plane beach were investigated experimentally in a super tank (300 m × 5 m × 5.2 m). Swash flow measurements of flow velocities are compared with an existing analytical solution. By incorporating an analytical solution, the hydrodynamic pressure for a quasi-steady flow state is determined and compared with laboratory data. Concerning the evident extra pressure exerted by the impact of swash flow, an empirical drag coefficient for a circular plate is also suggested in the present study.     

白浪覆盖率模式中参量的研究

在波面位移为正态过程的假定下,推导出一种以平均周期和风速为参量的白浪覆盖率公式W=1-Φ[5.11094[-T/U10]0.7576].依据摩擦风速和U10的表达式,进一步推导出白浪覆盖率依赖于摩擦风速的形式W=1-Φ[0.5227[-T/U]0.7576]].考虑到在实际应用中,经常需要用波龄描述波浪的状态,将白浪覆盖率表示成一种形式简单的波龄的函数W=1-Φ(3.6496ξ0.7576),与Monahan等的海上测量数据符合良好.     

高度计波高数据同化对印度洋海域海浪模式预报影响研究

为提高海浪模式预报的精度,改善初始场是途径之一。研制了基于最优插值(OI)方法的海浪数据同化并行程序模块,并将其植入第三代海浪模式WAVEWATCH IIITM,建立了印度洋海域海浪同化预报方法,使用卫星高度计波高数据进行了同化预报试验。OI模块的并行设计使得植入同化模块的海浪模式仍能以并行方式运行。文中5°S以北印度洋海域为目标区域,嵌套在WAVE-WATCH IIITM的全球网格中,使得目标区域开边界条件得到较好解决。同化数据使用Jason-2高度计测量有效波高(SWH)沿轨数据。海浪同化预报模式由大气模式WRF(Weather Research andForecasting)输出的1小时一次的海面10 m风场驱动。将同化的模式结果(SWH)、无同化的模式结果(SWH)分别与高度计沿轨数据(SWH)进行比较,表明同化改善模式预报初始场的效果是明显的。以同化初始场出发进行海浪预报试验,结果表明,高度计波高数据同化在一定程度上可改进海浪短期预报的精度。     

Breaking wave loads at vertical seawalls and breakwaters

This paper presents recent advances in knowledge on wave loads, based on experimental work carried out in the CIEM/LIM large flume at Barcelona within the framework of the VOWS (Violent Overtopping by Waves at Seawalls) project. Both quasi-static and impact wave forces from the new data set have been compared with predictions by empirical and analytical methods. The scatter in impact forces has been found to be large over the whole range of measurements, with no existing method giving especially good predictions. Based on general considerations, a simple and intuitive set of prediction formulae has been introduced for quasi-static and impact forces, and overturning moments, giving good agreement with the new measurements. New prediction formulae have been compared with previous measurements from physical model tests at small and large scale, giving satisfactory results over a relatively wide range of test conditions. The time variation of wave impacts is discussed, together with pressure distribution up the wall, which shows that within experimental limitations the measured pressures are within existing limits of previous study.     

全球变化下地表反照率研究进展

地表反照率表征地球表面对太阳辐射的反射能力,决定着地表与大气之间辐射能量的分配过程,是影响地球气候系统的关键变量。在全球变化日益突出的今天,地表反照率与全球变化的相互影响机制已经成为地球科学研究领域的热点问题之一。地表反照率的细微变化,会影响到地气系统的能量收支平衡,进而引起区域以至全球气候变化。详细介绍地表反照率影响...     

陆地水水质全球变化研究进展

对陆地水水质全球变化研究中的几个问题进行了讨论，包括:陆地淡水水质的全球参比值问题;水质监测的发展及全球淡水水质监测计划;全球淡水水质变化趋势分析。
       

基于风化剥落深度的衢州古城墙小西门岩石砌块和蛎灰勾缝条长期抗风化能力研究

不同岩石在相同风化环境条件下的抗风化能力不同。如何评定岩石的抗风化能力是近年来人们十分关注的研究课题之一,因为它对岩石风化机理分析和石质文物长期保护研究有着重要的科学价值。位于浙江省衢州市的古城墙小西门建于明代晚期。小西门城墙的岩石砌块有多种岩性,它们之间的风化剥落深度相差较大。利用三维激光扫描仪测量了小西门某特定研究区中包含多种岩性的岩石砌块的风化剥落深度,并以此来评定不同岩性岩石的长期抗风化能力,以给出相应的排序。在现场还发现,与所研究的多数岩石砌块相比,被古人用作为古城墙各砌块之间勾缝的黏合材料蛎灰的抗风化能力更强。     

A comprehensive survey of lignin geochemistry in the sedimentary organic matter along the Kapuas River (West Kalimantan, Indonesia)

In this first study of lignin geochemistry in the world’s longest river on an island, surface sediments were collected along the Kapuas River, three lakes in the upper river, a tributary in the lower river and a separate river during June-July 2007 and December 2007-January 2008. The samples were analyzed for lignin-derived phenols and bulk elemental and stable carbon isotope compositions. Λ values (the sum of eight lignin phenols, expressed as mg/100 mg organic carbon (OC)) ranged from 0.13 to 3.70. Ratios of syringyl/vanillyl (S/V) and cinnamyl/vanillyl (C/V) ranged from 0.34 to 1.18 and 0.28 to 1.40, respectively, indicating the presence of non-woody angiosperm tissues. The high vanillic acid to vanillin (Ad/Al)v (0.71-2.01) and syringic acid to syringaldehyde (Ad/Al)s (0.72-2.12) ratios indicate highly degraded lignin materials. In the upper Kapuas River, highly degraded soil materials discharged from lands that were barren as a result of deforestation activities were detected in the locations directly in those vicinities. The middle Kapuas River showed rapid organic matter degradation, probably due to the presence of fresh terrestrial and phytoplankton organic matter fueling the biogeochemical cycling. The Kapuas Kecil River, one of the two branches in the lower reach of the Kapuas River, showed higher levels and diagenesis of sedimentary organic matter due to input from anthropogenic sources and increased marine organic matter near the mouth. This study shows that different stretches along the river exhibit different levels and composition of sedimentary organic matter, as well as different carbon dynamics, which is directly attributable to the varying landscapes and quality of organic matter.     

Une méthode de quantification de la dégradation d'un escarpement de faille au cours des cycles climatiques du Quaternaire : la faille de Jobourg (Nord Cotentin,France)Quantification of a fault-scarp degradation through Quaternary: the Jobourg fault (North Cotentin,France)

The degradation of the Jobourg fault-scarp occurred by cryoclastic processes in a periglacial environment during a part of Quaternary time. An attempt of quantification indicates a bulk scarp erosion of about 39 m³ m^?2, while the head accumulated at the bottom of the fault scarp only represents 4.6 m³ m^?2. To cite this article: M. Font et al., C. R. Geoscience 334 (2002) 171–178.