Modelling the effect of wave overtopping on nearshore hydrodynamics and morphodynamics around shore-parallel breakwaters

Wave overtopping nearshore coastal structures, such as shore-parallel breakwaters, can significantly alter the current circulation and sediment transport patterns around the structures, which in turn affects the formation of tombolos and salients in the nearshore area. This paper describes the implementation of a wave overtopping module into an existing depth-averaged coastal morphological mode: COAST2D and model applications to investigate the effect of wave overtopping on the hydrodynamics and morphodynamics around a group of shore-parallel breakwaters. The hydrodynamic aspects of the model were validated against a series of laboratory conditions. The model was then applied to a study site at Sea Palling, Norfolk, UK, where 9 shore-parallel segmented breakwaters including 4 surface-piercing and 5 low-crested breakwaters are present, for the storm conditions in Nov 2006. The model results were compared with laboratory data and field measurements, showing a good agreement on both hydrodynamics and morphological changes. Further analysis of wave overtopping effect on the nearshore hydrodynamics and morphodynamics reveals that wave overtopping has significant impacts on the nearshore circulation, sediment transport and the resulting morphological changes within such a complex breakwater scheme under the storm and macro-tide conditions. The results indicate the importance of including the wave overtopping in modelling nearshore morphodynamics with the presence of coastal structures.     

南海北部陆坡深水区沉积物输送模式探讨

南海北部陆坡深水区沉积物输送模式复杂多样,研究发现主要有碎屑流、浊流、砂质碎屑流、碳酸盐岩重力流、块体搬运、河流搬运、深水水道搬运7种类型,它们共同影响着南海北部陆坡沉积物类型和储层分布。其中(砂质)碎屑流沉积、块体搬运沉积、河流供给、深水水道砂是南海北部深水储层的主要成因,而纯粹的浊积岩在该地区发育不广泛。珠江口盆地的深水储层受到河流的供给和后期流体改造的影响,并且存在碳酸盐岩重力流沉积物薄层,证明该地区水动力条件较强;琼东南盆地深水储层分布受到了碎屑流控制和深水水道的影响,相对浅水区来看可能存在分选较好、干净的砂体储层,具有良好的勘探潜力。     

A Lagrangian study of the near-surface intrusion of Pacific water into the South China Sea

Satellite-tracked Lagrangian drifters are used to investigate the transport pathways of near-surface water around the Luzon Strait. Particular attention is paid to the intrusion of Pacific water into the South China Sea(SCS).Results from drifter observations suggest that except for the Kuroshio water, other Pacific water that carried by zonal jets, Ekman currents or eddies, can also intrude into the SCS. Motivated by this origin problem of the intrusion water, numerous simulated trajectories are constructed by altimeter-based velocities. Quantitative estimates from simulated trajectories suggest that the contribution of other Pacific water to the total intrusion flux in the Luzon Strait is approximately 13% on average, much smaller than that of Kuroshio water. Even so, over multiple years and many individual intrusion events, the contribution from other Pacific water is quite considerable. The interannual signal in the intrusion flux of these Pacific water might be closely related to variations in a wintertime westward current and eddy activities east of the Luzon Strait. We also found that Ekman drift could significantly contribute to the intrusion of Pacific water and could affect the spreading of intrusion water in the SCS. A case study of an eddy-related intrusion is presented to show the detailed processes of the intrusion of Pacific water and the eddy-Kuroshio interaction.     

吕宋海峡输送年际变异数值研究

利用MITgcm数值模式1980—2001年的常规模拟输出数据,研究了吕宋海峡22年平均的体积、热量和盐量输送随深度的变化,并利用小波变换分别分析了吕宋海峡3个层次(0—145、145—915、915—1 837m)体积和热量输送的年际变化,主要结果如下。(1)在吕宋海峡1 837m层以下,仍有一定数量的西北太平洋海水(体积和盐)西向输送到南海;(2)915—1 615m层的年际体积输送的变化趋势与上两个层次(0—145m、145—915m)类似,但是在某些ENSO时期(如1985、1987、1991—1995年),其年际变化与145—915m层年际变化的位相相反;(3)吕宋海峡年际体积(热量)输送的小波谱图较明显地反映出ENSO现象对吕宋海峡不同层次的输送均产生一定影响。145—915m层次的吕宋海峡年际体积输送与ENSO现象相关性显著。     

清淤输泥的新方法新设备

为解决中低滩涂沉积的深厚软粘土层的输送难题,提出了一种清淤输泥的新方法,研制了能远距离输送高浓度、大粘度、低含水量的淤泥和软粘土的土方施工新设备:包括进料口、推送器、表面膜发生器、脉冲切割器、定位系统、智能控制系统、输料管道、管道浮子等。该设备具有能耗低,工效高,效益好;结构简单,故障少,运行维护方便;定位准确性高;自动化程度高等特点。可广泛应用于水利、环保、建筑工程中的淤泥和软粘土输送。     

Hydrodynamic characteristics and sediment transport of a tidal river under influence of wading engineering groups

By taking the Yong River for example in this paper, based on the multiple measured data during 1957 to 2009, the change process of runoff, tide feature, tidal wave, tidal influx and sediment transport are analyzed. Then a mathematical model is used to reveal the influence mechanism on hydrodynamic characteristics and sediment transport of the wading engineering groups such as a tide gate, a breakwater, reservoirs, bridges and wharves, which were built in different periods. The results showed the hydrodynamic characteristics and sediment transport of the Yong River changed obviously due to the wading engineering groups. The tide gate induced deformation of the tidal wave, obvious reduction of the tidal influx and weakness of the tidal dynamic, decrease of the sediment yield of flood and ebb tide and channel deposition. The breakwater blocked estuarine entrances, resulting in the change of the tidal current and the reduction of the tidal influx in the estuarine area. The large-scale reservoirs gradually made the decrease of the Yong River runoff. The bridge and wharf groups took up cross-section areas, the cumulative affection of which caused the increase of tidal level in the tidal river.     

A Recent Full-Depth Survey of the Alaskan Stream

We examine results from a cruise in May 1997. CTD casts to near the bottom were made south of the Aleutian Islands, across Amchitka Pass, and north of the islands. We computed a westward geostrophic speed of 123 cm s^–1 at 173.5°W in the Alaskan Stream. The computed volume transport there, referred to the bottom, was 25×10⁶m³s^–1. On other similar sections, transports were 8–15 × 10⁶ m³s^–1. Various complex variations in geopotential height along the Stream apparently altered the cross-stream gradients, and hence the transports. Rotational tendencies were also present. Northward inflow through Amchitka Pass was quite strong (6 × 10⁶ m³s^–1). Data north of the islands supported the existence of a zero-velocity reference level of variable depth.     

大河影响下的边缘海沉积有机碳输运与埋藏及再矿化研究进展

大河影响下的边缘海是陆源输入物质的主要储库,也是有机碳埋藏和再矿化的主要场所,在全球碳的生物地球化学循环中有着重要作用。从有机碳的输运、埋藏和再矿化等方面综述了大河影响下的边缘海沉积有机碳生物地球化学研究的最新进展。研究表明,有机碳的来源、组成、粒径和密度分布等显著影响着有机碳的分布特征和归宿,大河影响下的边缘海中移动泥等特殊沉积环境在有机碳的输运、埋藏和再矿化分解等方面发挥了独特的作用;微生物分解作用则是边缘海沉积有机碳,特别是难降解陆源有机碳发生分解的重要因素。综合运用分子生物学、有机地球化学、生物地球化学等多学科研究手段,深入研究特定微生物、浮游生物功能类群等在大河影响下的边缘海沉积有机碳生物地球化学过程中的作用,将极大地丰富对河口和陆架边缘海生源要素生物地球化学循环的认识。     

Observations of the Karimata Strait througflow from December 2007 to November 2008

In order to quantitatively estimate the volume and property transports between the South China Sea and Indonesian Seas via the Karimata Strait, two trawl-resistant bottom mounts, with ADCPs embedded, were deployed in the strait to measure the velocity profile as part of the South China Sea-Indonesian Seas transport/exchange (SITE) program. A pair of surface and bottom acoustic modems was employed to transfer the measured velocity without recovering the mooring. The advantage and problems of the instruments in this field work are reported and discussed. The field observations confirm the existence of the South China Sea branch of Indonesian throughflow via the Karimata Strait with a stronger southward flow in boreal winter and weaker southward bottom flow in boreal summer, beneath the upper layer northward (reversal) flow. The estimate of the averaged volume, heat and freshwater transports from December 2007 to March 2008 (winter) is (-2.7 ± 1.1) × 10 6 m3/s, (-0.30 ± 0.11) PW, (-0.18 ± 0.07) × 106m3/s and from May to September 2008 (summer) is (1.2 ± 0.6) × 106m3/s, (0.14 ± 0.03) PW, (0.12 ± 0.04) × 106m3/s and for the entire record from December 2007 to October 2008 is (-0.5 ± 1.9) × 10 6 m3/s, (-0.05 ± 0.22) PW, (-0.01 ± 0.15) × 106m3/s (negative/positive represents southward/northward transport), respectively. The existence of southward bottom flow in boreal summer implies that the downward sea surface slope from north to south as found by Fang et al. (2010) for winter is a year-round phenomenon.     

北太平洋波浪输运和西边界流的季节变化

西边界流输运可以用Sverdrup理论推算出来.本文首先利用ECMWF再分析风场数据,计算了44年的月平均的风应力旋度及Sverdrup体积输运,在北太平洋3条纬度上对Sverdrup体积输运进行积分,得到Sverdrup体积输运的季节变化,从中发现,在向赤道流动的方向上,Sverdrup体积输运在冬季存在最大值,夏季存在最小值;同样利用ECMWF再分析波浪数据,计算了44a的月平均的Stokes体积输运,在相同纬度上对Stokes体积输运进行积分,得到Stokes体积输运的季节变化,从结果中发现,在向赤道流动的方向上,Stokes输运在冬季存在最大值,在夏季存在最小值.在本文中设定R=T_(st)/T_(sv)×100%,T_(st)为Stokes体积输运,T_(sv)为Sverdrup体积输运,发现Stokes输运和Sverdrup输运存在同位相的季节变化,并且(-R)冬季平均值在5%以上,年平均值在2%～3%左右,从而推断出波浪诱导的输运对Sverdrup输运,既对西边界流有不可忽视的贡献.