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1.
In the upper Chesapeake Bay (Maryland, U.S.A.) field surveys were conducted at 18 multiple longshore sand bar sites. The multiple bar systems were found in water depths less than approximately 2 m (mean sea level), and exhibited mild bottom slopes of 0·0052 or less. The number of bars composing each system ranged from four to 17 and the spacing between the crests typically increased in the offshore direction, ranging from 12 to 70 m. Bar height also typically increased with distance offshore and ranged from 0·03 to 0·61 m. A grain size analysis of crest and trough sediment did not reveal any significant differences and the sediment was categorized as ‘fine sand’. A review of the literature data indicated that the Chesapeake Bay multiple bars possessed similar characteristics to those found in Gelding Bay (Baltic Sea); similarities in fetch, wave height and tidal range between the two bays may account for this finding. The surf-scaling parameter indicated that the multiple bar systems were extremely dissipative with regard to wave energy, and wave height appeared to be an important factor in controlling bar spacing and bar height. A multiple wave break point hypothesis was discussed as a possible mechanism for the formation of Chesapeake Bay multiple longshore bars, and limited observational evidence appeared to support such a mechanism. 相似文献
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Surface waves image the top of the Eifel plume 总被引:1,自引:0,他引:1
Jan P. Mathar Joachim R. R. Ritter Wolfgang Friederich 《Geophysical Journal International》2006,164(2):377-382
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Shear wave statics using receiver functions 总被引:1,自引:0,他引:1
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Sensitivity kernels for finite-frequency surface waves 总被引:1,自引:1,他引:1
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Soumen Mondal Sandip K. Chakrabarti 《Monthly notices of the Royal Astronomical Society》2006,371(3):1418-1426
Standing, propagating or oscillating shock waves are common in accretion and winds around compact objects. We study the topology of all possible solutions using the pseudo-Kerr geometry. We present the parameter space spanned by the specific energy and angular momentum and compare it with that obtained from the full general relativity to show that the potential can work satisfactorily in fluid dynamics also, provided the polytropic index is suitably modified. We then divide the parameter space depending on the nature of the solution topology. We specifically study the nature of the standing Rankine–Hugoniot shocks. We also show that as the Kerr parameter is increased, the shock location generally moves closer to the black hole. In future, these solutions can be used as guidelines to test numerical simulations around compact objects. 相似文献
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In an attempt to elucidate the mechanics of deep-water wave breaking, a variety of breaking waves, including spilling and plunging waves, of different length scales and geometries was studied. The waves were generated through wave-wave interactions using wave packets with constant-steepness components, constant-amplitude components, and also components following the Pierson-Moskowitz distribution. Wave steepening prior to breaking were found to cause an increase in the high frequency spectral slope of the wave spectrum. The slopes were correlated to the type of breaking and the intensity of the breaking. The energy loss through breaking varied with the spectral characteristics of the wave packet. On the other hand, it was also noted that, irrespective of the wave packet, the losses were from the higher frequency end of the first harmonics. 相似文献