北太平洋波浪输运和西边界流的季节变化

西边界流输运可以用Sverdrup理论推算出来.本文首先利用ECMWF再分析风场数据,计算了44年的月平均的风应力旋度及Sverdrup体积输运,在北太平洋3条纬度上对Sverdrup体积输运进行积分,得到Sverdrup体积输运的季节变化,从中发现,在向赤道流动的方向上,Sverdrup体积输运在冬季存在最大值,夏季存在最小值;同样利用ECMWF再分析波浪数据,计算了44a的月平均的Stokes体积输运,在相同纬度上对Stokes体积输运进行积分,得到Stokes体积输运的季节变化,从结果中发现,在向赤道流动的方向上,Stokes输运在冬季存在最大值,在夏季存在最小值.在本文中设定R=T_(st)/T_(sv)×100%,T_(st)为Stokes体积输运,T_(sv)为Sverdrup体积输运,发现Stokes输运和Sverdrup输运存在同位相的季节变化,并且(-R)冬季平均值在5%以上,年平均值在2%～3%左右,从而推断出波浪诱导的输运对Sverdrup输运,既对西边界流有不可忽视的贡献.     

Onshore sandbar migration at Tairua Beach (New Zealand): Numerical simulations and field measurements

We observed the onshore migration (3.5 m/day) of a nearshore sandbar at Tairua Beach, New Zealand during 4 days of low-energy wave conditions. The morphological observations, together with concurrent measurements of waves and suspended sediment concentrations, were used to test a coupled, wave-averaged, cross-shore model. Because of the coarse bed material and the relatively low-energy conditions, the contribution of the suspended transport to the total transport was predicted and observed to be negligible. The model predicted the bar to move onshore because of the feedback between near-bed wave skewness, bedload, and the sandbar under weakly to non-breaking conditions at high tide. The predicted bathymetric evolution contrasts, however, with the observations that the bar migrated onshore predominantly at low tide. Also, the model flattened the bar, while in the observations the sandbar retained its steep landward-facing flank. A comparison between available observations and numerical simulations suggests that onshore propagating surf zone bores in very shallow water (< 0.25 m) may have been responsible for most of the observed bar behaviour. These processes are missing from the applied model and, given that the observed conditions can be considered typical of very shallow sandbars, highlight a priority for further field study and model development. The possibility that the excess water transported by the bores across the bar was channelled alongshore to near-by rip-channels further implies that traditional cross-shore measures to judge the applicability of a cross-shore morphodynamic model may be misleading.     

Fundamental study for morphodynamic modelling: Sand mounds in oscillatory flows

Experiments on sand mounds in oscillatory flow, undertaken in controlled, large-scale laboratory conditions, have produced well-defined data sets for model comparison. Three bathymetries with different levels of submergence, including a surface-piercing case, were tested. The maximum slope was about 1:5.5. Sediment transport is due to bed load with ripple formation. The principal time-dependent bulk parameters are the vertical distance of the centre of gravity above the base and the volume of the mound. A semi-implicit finite-volume depth-averaged hydrodynamic model is used to drive morphodynamics, using van Rijn's sediment flux model generalized to take account of bed slope, and some justification is given for depth-averaged modeling in these conditions. Starting the model runs with the conditions at the end of the first cycle avoided initial atypical physical behaviour. In general good predictions were obtained with an angle of repose reduced from the standard value of about 30° for stationary beds to 15°. For these situations, morphodynamics was largely unaffected by a hydrodynamic roughness height in the range 2.5D₅₀ to 51D₅₀, with larger values accounting for ripple roughness. The reduced angle of repose may be physically expected with mobile beds but this specific value is only expected to be suited to this form of bed motion. In one case an exaggerated ripple formed near the top of the mound reducing agreement with experiment. For the submerged case with normal ripple structure excellent predictions were obtained. For the initially surface-piercing mound, the time of submergence was better predicted with a 30° angle of repose, presumably due to the prominent influence of the near stationary bed near the wet/dry interface, although long term predictions were better predicted with 15°. The occurrence of vortex shedding in the first cycle modeled was in agreement with experimental observation.     

源地黑潮及其上下游流量的变化特征

本文基于长时间序列的海流和温盐资料（最新版SODA高分辩率再分析资料和137°E断面的观测资料）,计算了黑潮流系四个主要断面的流量,并分析了它们的变化特征．结果表明,黑潮流系各主要断面流量具有显著的季节性差异,其年际、年代际变化明显．相关分析表明,源地黑潮及其上下游流量变化具有较强的独立性,变化不尽一致,其中,短期气候变化特征可能与热带太平洋的年际变化有明显关联,而年代际变化则可能与发生于北太平洋的年代际变化以及其它副热带中尺度涡旋等变化有一定联系．     

Analysis of primary production in the Seto Inland Sea, Japan, using a simple ecosystem model

A simple model of lower trophic level ecosystem has been created to analyze possible environmental control of primary production in eight sub-areas of the Seto Inland Sea. The primary production rates observed by Hashimotoet al. (1997a) in these sub-areas are well reproduced by the model, including horizontal processes such as horizontal transport of nutrients and vertical processes such as vertical mixing, light intensity and sinking of particulate matter. Without taking account of horizontal processes the model also successfully reproduces the observed primary production rates in some areas, but if fails to reproduce those in the others. This shows that the relative importance of the horizontal transport on the primary production differs are by area. Two time scales,T _z andT _H, are introduced to explain this difference.T _z is a vertical cycling time of material, which is defined as the time during which the stock of the material in the water column is utilized for primary production;T _H is the horizontal transit time of the material. The relative importance of the horizontal process is well explained by theT _H/T _z ratio; that is, the horizontal transport process is important in the areas where this ratio is small. Further the possible mechanisms of nutrient supply for the primary production in each sub-area are investigated using this model.     

直立堤前海床的局部冲刷

对不规则波作用下直立堤前海床的局部冲刷进行了研究。研究了由于波浪作用导致床面的底沙运动,从而造成提前海床的局部冲刷,即所谓的“相对粒沙”的情况。报导了;(1)堤前海床面为水平、堤下无基床情况下的堤前局部冲刷,以及堤下有明基床时基床尺度对堤前局部冲刷的影响;(2)堤前海床面为斜坡面时堤前的局部冲刷,以及当堤下有明基床时基床尺度对堤前局部冲刷的影响;(3)从波浪作用下床面边界层的理论分析出发,对于在不规则波作用下,离堤面愈远处的冲刷坑深度愈小的事实给出了解释。     

Large-scale dune erosion tests to study the influence of wave periods

Large-scale physical model tests were performed to quantify the effects of the wave period on dune erosion. Attention was focussed on 2D cross-shore effects in a situation with sandy dunes and extreme water levels and wave conditions. Besides profile measurements, detailed measurements in time and space of water pressure, flow velocities and sediment concentrations were performed in the near near-shore area. It was concluded that a longer wave period leads to a larger dune erosion volume and to a larger landward retreat of the dune face. Tests with double-peaked wave spectra showed that the influence of the spectral shape on dune erosion was best represented by the T_m − 1,0 spectral mean wave period, better than the peak wave period, T_p. The effect of the wave period on dune erosion was implemented in a dune erosion prediction method that estimates erosion volumes during normative storm conditions for the Dutch coast. More details of the measurements and additional analyses of physical processes are described in an accompanying paper by Van Thiel de Vries et al. [Van Thiel de Vries, J.S.M., van Gent, M.R.A., Reniers, A.J.H.M. and Walstra, D.J.R., submitted for publication. Analysis of dune erosion processes in large scale flume experiments, In this volume of Coastal Engineering.].     

长江三角洲蓝图重绘的基础科学问题:进展与未来研究

在全球气候变化和人类活动影响加剧的背景下,作为河口海岸重要子系统的三角洲正在发生快速变化。长江三角洲地处长江入东海交汇处,是中国最重要的经济核心区之一,对邻近区域乃至整个长江经济带经济社会发展都起着重要作用。由于全球变暖、海面上升和强烈人类活动引发了三角洲系统状态转换,因此以往基于恒定系统状态而获得的有关长江三角洲的认识已不能满足未来需求,迫切需要对未来海面变化、极端事件、流域与河口工程影响下的三角洲物质循环条件、物理过程、地貌冲淤演化、源-汇格局调整等科学问题进行深入研究。在三角洲系统行为、未来演化趋势的预测能力建设中,应重视从海面到海底的综合立体观测系统的发展,以获取关键数据;基于三角洲系统的时、空演化特征,建立三角洲本征态和衍生态的谱系理论。未来需针对系统状态转换而调整原先的经济社会发展模式,以便保护自然资源、重建生态系统,更好地支撑长江经济带发展,重绘长江三角洲发展蓝图。     

沙质海岸强浪作用下沿岸输沙问题研究

在沙质海岸上修建导流堤、丁坝等会引起局部海域水沙动力条件的改变和海床冲淤调整,因此准确预测沿岸输沙率是海岸工程建设前进行优化设计的基础条件之一.首先构建了刻画高强度推移质输沙过程中固-液混合体运动的理论模型,通过寻求模型的特解并推导成1D沿岸输沙率公式.该公式适宜计算强浪作用下的推移质输沙率,已得到了大型波浪水槽、往复流水道和海滩现场实测输沙率资料的良好验证.通过与物理模型试验实测输沙量结果的比较,进一步表明该公式能够较好地预测沙质海岸在寒潮大风浪(或台风浪)作用下的高强度输沙量(骤淤量).