驱动非线性浅水波的行波特征研究

采用带有外界强迫效应的浅水动力学模式研究非线性波动、获得了依赖于外界输入形式的驱动水波的行波解。研究结果表明,驱动水波仍具有非线性波动的一般性质,而当外界强迫波速与水波固有速度一致时,水波出现共振效应,并且外界强迫孤立子将导致驱动水波孤立子产生。     

问题中的理论平均波阻(英文)

利用准三维的ｆＫｄＶ方程和四区间划分法,理论给出了任意截面的直渠道中先锋孤立子生成的理论平均波阻和区间平均能量的时间变化率。基于ｆＫｄＶ方程系数的正则性,文中结果是Ｘｕ等人结果的一个推广。对具有相同截面面积的正方形和等腰三角形截面的渠道及在不同强迫源和强迫源速度条件下,对理论平均波阻和平均生成能的时间变化率进行了数值比较和理论预报。比较指出,理论和数值结果吻合得很好。     

海岸沙坝近底悬移质通量实验研究

为了研究海岸沙坝的产生和演化机理,对不规则波和波群作用下沙坝上方的近底悬移质通量进行了实验研究。分析了短波、长波和平均水流对悬移质通量的影响。结果表明:各种波况下平均水流和长波的作用始终使泥沙向离岸方向输移,而短波的作用使泥沙向岸方向运动;平均水流引起的泥沙输移始终占主要成分,长波的次之。不规则波情况下平均水流的影响较规则波的情况相对较弱,三种成分对泥沙输运的贡献属于同一量级。波群情况下长波的影响随着波浪群性的增强而加大,短波的不明显,而平均水流的影响则随着波浪群性的增强而减弱。     

海口湾西海岸海滩沉积物与海滩稳定性分析

海滩是砂质海岸重要的沉积地貌单元,其沉积特征和稳定性对于海滩的开发利用与保护具有重要意义。本文根据海口湾西海岸海滩表层沉积物粒度数据,阐述了该区域海滩沉积物的时空分布规律,并通过对比滩面高程数据和水下地形数据分析了该区域的岸滩稳定性。结果表明：海口湾西海岸海滩处于滩面微蚀的轻度不稳定态,其岸外浅滩处于边坡侵蚀的轻度不稳定态。另外,根据波浪作用和泥沙来源进一步探讨了海口湾西海岸海滩沉积物动力机制及其海滩侵蚀的原因。     

波速线性变化介质中地震波传播特征

根据变速介质中地震波传播所满足的变系数波动方程,推导出波速线性变化介质中一维波动方程的解析解,讨论了波速不均匀性对地震波传播的影响：地震波振幅衰减大小与介质速度梯度有关;频率转折点两侧地震波传播性质;频率与地震波波速关系。     

The statistics of particle velocities and accelerations under waves with directional spread

The statistics of the horizontal component of the water particle velocity vector under random waves are considered. A spread in the directions of travel of the component wave trains does not affect the rms value of the modulus r but it affects the shape of its probability distribution in such a way that the pr3bability of extreme values is reduced. For small and moderate directional spreads the modulus for a given probability of exceedance is reduced by a factor which tends to F_s as the probability of exceedance tends to zero, where F_s is the spread factor (which is typically 0.9 in temperate storms). However, the convergence on this asymptote is not complete for probabilities of engineering importance, particularly for wide directional spreads. The standard deviation of the probability distribution of the direction of the vector is reduced roughly in inverse proportion to r. The same conclusions apply to particle accelerations.     

Elastic response of catamaran wetdeck to liquid impact

The impact of an elastic plate onto the compressible fluid without free surface deformation is considered. The ability of the liquid volume to be deformed is geometrically limited which leads to severe impact conditions. The present analysis is focused on the stresses in the plate and the hydrodynamic loads under the impact. The motivation for this research comes from ship hydrodynamics, where the hulls of a catamaran restrict the liquid outflow and the water impacts onto the wetdeck. The influence of the air on the impact process is investigated. The analysis did not reveal any great advantage of utilizing the air-cushion effect or ejection of air into the water near the impact region to prevent high stresses in the elastic plate. It was found that in the problem considered, the stress peaks far from the plate centre and the one-mode approximation does not provide correct information about the stress level.     

Study on Coastal Protection Engineering in the Area of Abandoned Yellow River Mouth

This paper reviews the history of coast evolution and coastal protection in the area of theabandoned Yellow River mouth in Jiangsu Province,analyzes the erosion characteristics and dynamic en-vironment,evaluates the efficiency of coastal protection engineering works and designs the dimensions ofthe main seadike and offshore submerged dam.A gerneral scheme of shore protection for this area is pro-posed.     

非线性效应对浅水水波变形的影响

本文采用波数矢量无旋和波能守恒方程建立了一个考虑非线性作用的浅水水波变形数值模型,模型中采用Ｂａｔｔｊｅｓ关系与波数矢量无旋,波能守恒方程一起来求解波浪在浅水中变形的波浪要素,在波能守恒方程中考虑了底摩擦的影响。利用本文提出的数值模型对一个斜坡浅滩水域波浪折射绕射现象进行了验证,验证计算中用一个非线性经验弥散关系近似浅水水波变形的非线性效应并与用线性弥散关系的计算结果进行了比较,结果说明使用非线性     

The preliminary study of the high chlorophyll in the central Bohai Sea in summer

In the central Bohai Sea, both historical data and in situ observations show that the distribution of high chlorophyll concentration is consistent with warm water. The previous studies confirm that the warm water is caused by a joint effect of wave and tidal mixing. In this paper, the authors have coupled the Princeton ocean model (POM) with a biochemical model to further investigate the formation of the high chlorophyll concentration. When the wave mixing is excluded, the water temperature is lower and the chlorophyll concentration is also lower than the observation. However, if the wave mixing is included, strong wave mixing in the upper layer brings the warm water downward and nutrients upward so that both temperature and nutrients tend to be uniformly high from the surface to the bottom. This provides an environment which is favorable for the growth of the phytoplankton. Therefore the chlorophyll concentration, as a symbol of phytoplankton, shows high value in the central Bohai Sea. In conclusion, the wave mixing plays an important role in the formation of high chlorophyll concentration in the central Bohai Sea.