Simulation of the ocean surface mixed layer under the wave breaking

A one-dimensional mixed-layer model, including a Mellor-Yamada level 2.5 turbulence closure scheme, was implemented to investigate the dynamical and thermal structures of the ocean surface mixed layer in the northern South China Sea. The turbulent kinetic energy released through wave breaking was incorporated into the model as a source of energy at the ocean surface, and the influence of the breaking waves on the mixed layer was studied. The numerical simulations show that the simulated SST is overestimated in summer without the breaking waves. However, the cooler SST is simulated when the effect of the breaking waves is considered, the corresponding discrepancy with the observed data decreases up to 20% and the MLD calculated averagely deepens 3.8 m. Owing to the wave-enhanced turbulence mixing in the summertime, the stratification at the bottom of the mixed layer was modified and the temperature gradient spread throughout the whole thermocline compared with the concentrated distribution without wave breaking.     

长重力波形成机制研究进展

简要介绍了长重力波的概念和它在近岸过程的重要性,概述和评析了长重力波形成的Munk与Tucker模式,BLW,Unoki和非线性作用模式,BFLW模式以及BLW和BFLW联合作用等6种模式,展望了长重力波综合研究的内容和必要性.     

Soft computing approach for real-time estimation of missing wave heights

This paper presents soft computing approach for estimation of missing wave heights at a particular location on a real-time basis using wave heights at other locations. Six such buoy networks are developed in Eastern Gulf of Mexico using soft computing techniques of Artificial Neural Networks (ANN) and Genetic Programming (GP). Wave heights at five stations are used to estimate wave height at the sixth station. Though ANN is now an established tool in time series analysis, use of GP in the field of time series forecasting/analysis particularly in the area of Ocean Engineering is relatively new and needs to be explored further. Both ANN and GP approach perform well in terms of accuracy of estimation as evident from values of various statistical parameters employed. The GP models work better in case of extreme events. Results of both approaches are also compared with the performance of large-scale continuous wave modeling/forecasting system WAVEWATCH III. The models are also applied on real time basis for 3 months in the year 2007. A software is developed using evolved GP codes (C++) as back end with Visual Basic as the Front End tool for real-time application of wave estimation model.     

A study of SAR remote sensing of internal solitary waves in the north of the South China Sea:I.Simulation of internal tide transformation

For settlement of the well-known problem of contemporary radar imaging models,i.e.,the pmblem of a general underestimation of radar signatures of hydrodynamic features over oceanic internal waves and underwater bottom topography in tidal watels at at high radar frequency bands(X-band and C-band),the impact of the ocean surface mixed layer turbulence and the significance of strat-ified oceanic model on SAR remote sensing of internal solitary waves are proposed.In the north of the South China Sea by utilizing seme observed data of background field the nonlinearity coefficient,the dispersion coefficient,the horizontal variability coefficient and the phase speed in the generalized K-dV equation are determined approximately.Through simulations of internal tide transfor-mation the temporal evolution and spatial distribution of the vertical displacement and horizontal velocity of intereal wave field are obtained.The simulation results indicate that the maximum amplitudes of internal solitary waves occur at depth 35 m,but the maximum current speeds take place at depth 20 m in this area of the sea(about 20°30'N,114°E)in August.It was noticed that considering the effects of flood current and ebb current respectively is appropriate to investigate influence of the background shear flow on coefficients of the K-dV equation.The obtained results provide the possibility for the simulation of SAR signatures of inter-nal solitary waves under considering the impact of ocean surface mixed layer turbulence in the companion paper.     

Comparison Study on Wind Input and Whitecapping Dissipation Expressions in Numerical Simulation of Typhoon Generated Waves

In order to investigate the effect of wind input and whitecapping dissipation on the simulation of typhoon-waves, three experiments are conducted with the latest version of SWAN （Simulating WAves Nearshore） model. The three experiments adopt the Komen, Janssens, and Westhuysen expressions for wind input and whitecapping dissipation, respectively. Besides the above-mentioned source tems, other parameterization schemes in these experiments are the same. It shows that the experiment with the Westhuysen expression result in the least simulation errors while that with the Janssens expression has the most. The results from the experiments with Komen and Westhuysen expressions show that the differenees in significant wave height （SWH） have a good correlation with the differences in dissipation energy caused by whiteeapping. This indicates that the whitecapping dissipation source term plays an important role in the resultant differences of the simulated SWH between the two experiments.     

宇宙常数Λ≠0的平面引力波

本文讨论了宇宙常数Λ≠0时的平面引力波问题。在弱场近似下,得到了平面引力波传播方程及色散方程。通过对Kretschmann曲率标量的讨论发现,不同于Λ=0时h_(μv)仅有横场这一众所周知的结果,Λ<0时不存在一个坐标系,使h_(μv)的标量场、纵场、混合场分量全为零。最后讨论引力波辐射,结论是与Λ=0时无偶极辐射这一结果不同,Λ<0时,混合场的辐射有偶极辐射。     

Effect of under connected plates on the hydrodynamic efficiency of the floating breakwater

In this paper, the hydrodynamic efficiency of a floating breakwater system is experimentally studied by use of physical models. Regular waves with wide ranges of wave heights and periods are tested. The efficiency of the breakwater is presented as a function of the wave transmission, reflection, and energy dissipation coefficients. Different parameters affecting the breakwater efficiency are investigated, e.g. the number of the under connected vertical plates, the length of the mooring wire, and the wave length. It is found that, the transmission coefficient kt decreases with the increase of the relative breakwater width B/L, the number of plates n and the relative wire length l/h, while the reflection coefficient kr takes the opposite trend. Therefore, it is possible to achieve kt values smaller than 0.25 and kr values larger than 0.80 when B/L is larger than 0.25 for the case of l/h-1.5 and n=4. In addition, empirical equations used for estimating the transmission and reflection coefficients are developed by using the dimensionless analysis, regression analysis and measured data and verified by different theoretical and experimental results.     

规则波作用下台阶地形上墩柱绕流三维数值研究

利用Flow-3D建立三维数值波浪水槽,模拟波浪在不对称台阶地形上的传播。系统研究规则波作用下墩柱周围水流的流动特性,分析墩柱周围的瞬时速度场、涡量场以及KC值变化,不同相位时墩柱前、后水平流速分布情况。结果表明:波浪在台阶地形传播的过程中,墩柱迎水面的涡动结构不够明显;高涡量呈对称状聚集在墩柱的背水面,并形成一对旋转方向相反的涡结构;周期对KC值的影响比波高的影响要明显;墩柱迎水面水平方向流速变化较大,侧面水平流速变化最为剧烈,背面由于受到墩柱的掩护作用水平方向流速变化不大,在墩柱的正面和侧面竖向环流明显。     

Characteristics of developing waves as a function of atmospheric conditions,water properties,fetch and duration

For any specific wind speed, waves grow in period, height and length as a function of the wind duration and fetch until maximum values are reached, at which point the waves are considered to be fully developed. Although equations and nomograms exist to predict the parameters of developing waves for shorter fetch or duration conditions at different wind speeds, these either do not incorporate important variables such as the air and water temperature, or do not consider the combined effect of fetch and duration. Here, the wind conditions required for a fully developed sea are calculated from maximum wave heights as determined from the wind speed, together with a published growth law based on the friction velocity. This allows the parameters of developing waves to be estimated for any combination of wind velocity, fetch and duration, while also taking account of atmospheric conditions and water properties.     

Regeneration of sand waves after dredging

Sand waves are large bed waves on the seabed, being a few metres high and lying hundreds of metres apart. In some cases, these sand waves occur in navigation channels. If these sand waves reduce the water depth to an unacceptable level and hinder navigation, they need to be dredged. It has been observed in the Bisanseto Channel in Japan that the sand waves tend to regain their shape after dredging. In this paper, we address modelling of this regeneration of sand waves, aiming to predict this process. For this purpose, we combine a very simple, yet effective, amplitude-evolution model based on the Landau equation, with measurements in the Bisanseto Channel. The model parameters are tuned to the measured data using a genetic algorithm, a stochastic optimization routine. The results are good. The tuned model accurately reproduces the measured growth of the sand waves. The differences between the measured weave heights and the model results are smaller than the measurement noise. Furthermore, the resulting parameters are surprisingly consistent, given the large variations in the sediment characteristics, the water depth and the flow field. This approach was tested on its predictive capacity using a synthetic test case. The model was tuned based on constructed predredging data and the amplitude evolution as measured for over 2 years. After tuning, the predictions were accurate for about 10 years. Thus, it is shown that the approach could be a useful tool in the optimization of dredging strategies in case of dredging of sand waves.