Intercomparison of wave-driven current models

Seven numerical models which simulate waves and currents in the surf-zone are tested for the case of a reduced-scale detached breakwater subjected to the action of regular waves with normal incidence. The computed wave heights, water levels and velocities are compared with measurements collected in an experimental wave basin. The wave height decay in the surf-zone is predicted reasonably well. Set-up and currents appear to be less well predicted. This intercomparison exercise shows that radiation stresses are systematically overestimated by formulations used in the models, mean bottom shear stresses are not always co-linear with the mean bottom velocity vector in shallow water, and turbulence modelling in the surf-zone requires a sophisticated     

Possible source of the antarctic bottom water in the Prydz Bay Region

It has been inferred that the Prydz Bay region is one of the source regions of Antarctic Bottom Water (AABW) based on rather indirect evidence. In order to examine this inference, we investigate the hydrographic condition of the bay based mainly on XCTD data obtained during the Japanese Whale Research Program in the Antarctic (JARPA). The JARPA hydrographic data reveal Circumpolar Deep Water (CDW), which is a salty, warm water mass approaching the shelf break, and capture Modified CDW (MCDW) intruding into the shelf water. AABW production requires mixing of CDW and cold shelf water saltier than 34.6 psu, which is a saltier type of Low Salinity Shelf Water (LSSW). Saltier LSSW is observed near the bottom over the shelf, being mixed with MCDW. We further identify saltier LSSW near the shelf break. This saltier LSSW appears close enough to unmodified CDW to be mixed with it over the continental slope, indicating a possible source of AABW in Prydz Bay.     

Bottom friction caused by boundary layer streaming beneath random waves for laminar and smooth turbulent flow

The effect of boundary layer streaming on the sea bed shear stresses, beneath random waves, is investigated for laminar flow as well as smooth turbulent flow. It is demonstrated how bottom friction formulas for regular waves can be used to obtain the bed shear stresses resulting from steady streaming under random waves. As a result, friction factors for steady streaming under random waves are provided, and the effect of streaming versus the effect of linear waves is discussed. For laminar flow the effect of second order Stokes waves is also included. Examples are included to illustrate the applicability of the present practical method, and results are obtained using data typical for field conditions.     

浙江近海潮汐潮流的数值模拟

用三维陆架海模式(HAMSOM)对浙江近海的潮汐、潮流进行了数值模拟,并采用网格嵌套和动边界技术对原模式作了改进,以提高计算的精度,改进后的模式在浙江近海的应用中被证明是成功的.沿岸50个潮位站计算与实测值的比较表明,加入动边界以后的小区域细网格计算较之粗网格以及未加动边界以前精度普遍提高,比较的均方差结果为:M₂分潮振幅差4.6cm,相角差7.14°;S₂分潮振幅差5.0cm,相角差5.4°;K₁分潮振幅差2.25cm,相角差5.76°;O₁分潮振幅差1.56cm,相角差5.5°,可见计算与实测符合良好.另外,选取了105个实测潮流点,比较了表层M₂和K₁分潮流调和常数分量Ucosξ,Usinξ,Vcosη,Vsinη的实测值与计算值的偏差,结果表明计算与实测的符合程度较好.在此基础上,给出了各主要分潮的潮位同潮图、潮流同潮图、潮汐性质、潮流性质、潮流椭圆和潮流的运动形式等,发现4个主要分潮M₂,S₂,K₁,O₁在本区内均未出现无潮点;M₂分潮流在29°18'N,122°46'E处有一个圆流点.此外还得到了一些有意义的结论,都与实测情况符合良好,从而对整个浙江沿海区域的潮汐潮流特性有了一个全面认识.     

Field azimuth disambiguation using ambiguity-free currents

Using the ambiguity-free vertical current defined by Semel and Skumanich (1995) we derive a minimum-current azimuth disambiguation for the observed magnetic field in the active region NOAA 7201. A comparison of such a minimum-current azimuth resolution with those from other extant methods indicates that the resulting resolution, even though found to be limited by noise, is a useful first approximation. A comparison of our minimum current distribution with the currents we derive from an extant disambiguation (Lites et al., 1995) indicates the presence of current discontinuities in the form of linear features near the magnetic neutral line of the associated -spot.The National Center for Atmospheric Research is funded by the National Science Foundation     

Vertical exchange due to horizontal density gradients in lakes; the case of Lake Lucerne

Recent field investigations have shown that differential mixing causes a significant density driven exchange between the two eastern basins of Lake Lucerne, Gersauersee and Urnersee. The long term vertical mixing characteristics during the winter mixing period and the influence of the resulting exchange flow on water quality are examined through the analysis of ten years (1964 to 1974) of monthly limnological data. Vertical homogenization of the state variables (temperature, electric conductivity and density) occurred on average once every two years in Urnersee, but not once in Gersauersee where the ten year average winter mixed-layer depth extended to 120 m. In Urnersee intense mixing was evident over the whole water column for every year. In contrast intense mixing in the deeper layers of Gersauersee occurred approximately once every four years. A three layer model shows that theT/ ₂₀ signature of the Gersauersee intermediate water correlates best with the Urnersee deep water confirming the regular occurrence of a density driven exchange. For the lower layers the oxygen consumption rate in Urnersee was approximately twice that for Gersauersee. It appears the exchange flow can act either as a source or sink for the oxygen balance of Urnersee deep water. The larger rate in Urnersee hypolimnion might also be associated with the larger sediment input to this system. Density driven exchange resulting from differential mixing is probably an important contribution to the vertical water replenishment in many lakes.     

Deposits and physical properties of pyroclastic density currents during complex Subplinian eruptions: the AD 472 (Pollena) eruption of Somma-Vesuvius, Italy

Small-scale pyroclastic density currents (PDCs) associated with the AD 472 (Pollena) eruption of Somma-Vesuvius, Italy, were generated by both magmatic and phreatomagmatic explosive fragmentation. The resulting deposits were emplaced under flow boundary conditions dominated by varying combinations of grain interaction, fluid escape and traction processes. Stratigraphic and lithofacies analysis of these PDCs offers a new perspective on the en masse versus progressive aggradation debate for PDC deposition. In particular, the analyses indicate that PDCs were density stratified with a basal underflow dominated by grain interactions. The underflows comprised trains of self-organized granular pulses of variable thickness and magnitude, depending on the overall particle concentration and fluid turbulence. A change in gradient between the upper and lower slopes of the volcano promoted deposition and the different pulses aggraded sequentially (stepwise). In this model each pulse stops en masse and the whole deposit aggrades progressively. Particle concentration, density, mean velocity, and flow height were assessed for the studied PDCs using differaent methods for massive and stratified deposits. The calculated mobility of the flows was 0·2 to 0·3, in the expected range for small-scale PDCs.     

Evidence of across-shelf transport of fine-grained sediments: turbidite-filled shelf channels in the Campanian Aberdeen Member, Book Cliffs, Utah, USA

The shore‐normal transport of fine‐grained sediments by shelf turbidity currents has been the focus of intense debate over the last 20 years. Many have argued that turbidity currents are unlikely to be a major depositional agent on the shelf. However, sedimentological, architectural, stratigraphic and palaeogeographic data from the Campanian Aberdeen Member, Book Cliffs, eastern Utah suggests otherwise and clearly demonstrates that storm‐generated and river flood‐generated underflows can transport a significant volume of fine‐grained sediments across the shelf. These across‐shelf flowing turbidity currents cut large subaqueous channel complexes up to 7 m deep, tens of kilometres basinward of their time‐equivalent shoreface. The shelf channels were filled with organic‐rich siltstones, mudstones and very fine‐ to fine‐grained Bouma‐like sandstone beds, including wave‐modified turbidites, hyperpycnites and classical turbidites. Deposition was above storm wave base. Palaeocurrent data reveal an overwhelmingly dominant across‐shelf (east–south‐east), offshore‐directed transport trend. Tectonic activity and/or concomitant palaeogeographic reorganization of the basin may favour the generation of these turbidite‐rich shelf deposits by altering the relative balance of wave versus fluvial energy. Increased erosion and sediment supply rates, because of tectonic uplift of the hinterland, may have increased the probability of fluvial dominance along the coastline and, hence, the possibility of submarine channelization in front of the river mouths. Additionally, the coastline may have become more sheltered from direct wave energy, thus allowing the fluvial processes to dominate. Seasonal increases in rainfall and storm activity may also favour the generation of across‐shelf underflows. On wave‐dominated shorelines, isolated shelf channels and lobes are most likely to be found down‐dip of fluvial‐feeder systems in relatively high sediment supply settings. These features are also most likely to occur in systems tracts that straddle a sequence boundary, especially those which are tectonically generated, as these would enhance the potential for altering basin morphology and, hence, the balance of fluvial and wave energy. Isolated shelf channels are recognized in older and younger strata in the Book Cliffs region, implying that wave‐supported gravity flows were a recurrent phenomena in the Campanian of Utah. It is probable that isolated shelf bodies are preserved in other stratigraphic intervals in the Cretaceous Western Interior of North America, and other basins worldwide, and are currently being overlooked or misidentified. Shoreface‐to‐shelf facies models should be revised to incorporate turbidite‐rich shelf deposits in some shelf settings.     

Wave-induced topographic formstress in baroclinic channel flow

Large-scale zonal flow driven across submarine topography establishes standing Rossby waves. In the presence of stratification, the wave pattern can be represented by barotropic and baroclinic Rossby waves of mixed planetary topographic nature, which are locked to the topography. In the balance of momentum, the wave pattern manifests itself as topographic formstress. This wave-induced formstress has the net effect of braking the flow and reducing the zonal transport. Locally, it may lead to acceleration, and the parts induced by the barotropic and baroclinic waves may have opposing effects. This flow regime occurs in the circumpolar flow around Antarctica. The different roles that the wave-induced formstress plays in homogeneous and stratified flows through a zonal channel are analyzed with the BARBI (BARotropic-Baroclinic-Interaction ocean model, Olbers and Eden, J Phys Oceanogr 33:2719–2737, 2003) model. It is used in complete form and in a low-order version to clarify the different regimes. It is shown that the barotropic formstress arises by topographic locking due to viscous friction and the baroclinic one due to eddy-induced density advection. For the sinusoidal topography used in this study, the transport obeys a law in which friction and wave-induced formstress act as additive resistances, and windstress, the effect of Ekman pumping on the density stratification, and the buoyancy forcing (diapycnal mixing of the stratified water column) of the potential energy stored in the stratification act as additive forcing functions. The dependence of the resistance on the system parameters (lateral viscosity ε, lateral diffusivity κ of eddy density advection, Rossby radius λ, and topography height δ) as well as the dependence of transport on the forcing functions are determined. While the current intensity in a channel with homogeneous density decreases from the viscous flat bottom case in an inverse quadratic law ~δ ^–2 with increasing topography height and always depends on ε, a stratified system runs into a saturated state in which the transport becomes independent of δ and ε and is determined by the density diffusivity κ rather than the viscosity: κ/λ ² acts as a vertical eddy viscosity, and the transport is λ ²/κ times the applied forcing. Critical values for the topographic heights in these regimes are identified.