A New Pursuit Mode of Nonlinear Wave Surface

The numerical mode of nonlinear wave transformation based on both the Laplace equation for water field and the Bemoulli equation for water surface is a kind of time-domain boundary problem with initial conditions. And the basis for establishing the numerical mode of nonlinear wave in time domain is to trace the position of wave free surface and to calculale the instantaneous surface height and surface potential function. This paper firstly utilizes the ‘0-1‘ combined BEM to separate the boundary by means of discretization of Green‘ s integral equation based on the Laplace equation, then separates the free surface of wave with FEM and derives the FEM equation of wave surface that satisfies the nonlinear boundary conditions. By jointly solving the above BEM and FEM equations, the wave potential and surface height could be obtained with iteration in time domain. Thus a new kind of nonlinear numerical mode is established for calculating wave transformation. The wave test in the numerical wave tank shows that the numerical simulation with this mode is of high accuracy.     

Spectral Analysis of Nonlinear Drag Forces

The spectral properties of nonlinear drag forces of random waves on vertical circular cylinders are analyzed in this paper by means of nonlinear spectral analysis. The analysis provides basic parameters for estimation of the characteristic drag forces. Numerical computation is also performed for the investigation of the effects of nonlinearity of the drag forces.The results indicate that the wave drag forces calculated by linear wave theory are larger than those calculated by the third order Stokes wave theory for given waves. The difference between them increases with wave height. The wave drag forces calculated by use of hnear approximation are about 5% smaller than their actual values when measured in the peak values of spectral densities. This will result in a safety problem for the design of offshore structures. Therefore, the nonlinear effect of wave drag forces should be taken into comidemtion in design and application of important offshore structures.     

船舶受冲击力作用时的水动力试验研究

根据冲量相似的要求进行船舶在冲击作用下的模型试验，并将模型试验结果与理论计算及实际试验进行了对比和分析。     

潮汐响应分析及非线性输入函数的研究

本文采用对不同潮族进行带通滤波而后进行响应分析的方法对潮汐进行分析。引用第一级预报水位构成的非线性输入函数分析非线性潮。给出了预报水位4至6级的组合公式。较好地分析了8,10两族。本文还以坎门和金山咀为例研究了各种输入函数的分析效果,并以预报方差和谱结构来考察输入函数的合理性。     

热带海气耦合波动力学性质研究

本文利用简单海气耦合模式研究了热带大气和海洋不同波动之间的相互作用产生的耦合波及其稳定性等动力学性质,指出热带耦合系统中分别存在一类稳定的和不稳定的海气相互作用模态,其中不稳定模态的传播依赖于扰动的纬向尺度,即5000～10000km扰动表现为不稳定东传,大于此尺度的扰动发生不稳定西传,理论得出的缓慢不稳定东传波和观测事实甚为一致.最后本文指出热带海气耦合不稳定产生的基本条件是一种介质中的Kelvin波和另一种介质中的Rossby波的相互作用.     

均匀水底上二维随机波面的二阶谱

本文用摄动方法导出了均匀水底上精确至二阶的二维随机波动解。依据此解并将二阶谱定义为三阶矩函数的Fourier变换,首次给出了精确至二阶的二维随机波面二阶谱的理论表达式并简略地考虑了它的各个组成部分的物理意义。     

A New Approach to High-Order Boussinesq-Type Equations with Ambient Currents

A new approach to high-order Boussinesq-type equations with ambient currents is presented. The current velocity is assumed to be uniform over depth and of the same magnitude as the shallow water wave celerity. The wave velocity field is expressed in terms of the horizontal and vertical wave velocity components at an arbitrary water depth level. Linear operators are introduced to improve the accuracy of the kinematic condition at the sea bottom. The dynamic and kinematic conditions at the free surface are expressed in terms of wave velocity variables defined directly on the free surface. The new equations provide high accuracy of linear properties as well as nonlinear properties from shallow to deep water, and extend the applicable range of relative water depth in the case of opposing currents.     

广东三水盆地晚自垩世—始新世古地磁研究及构造意义

对广东三水盆地上白垩统三水组、大　山组、古新统莘庄组及始新统　心组、宝月组的系统的古地磁研究结果表明：（１）旋转运动是该区构造运动的主要形式，顺时针旋转盆地拉张发育，这时针旋转盆地挤压衰亡，发育的程度与旋转角度有关；（２）始新世该区旋转方向由顺时针旋转变为道时针旋转，对应于太平洋－库拉板块对欧亚板块作用方向的改变，说明三水盆地的形成发育与太平洋－库拉板块对欧亚板块的作用密切相关；（３）三水盆地所在的华南地块从晚白垩世至始新世在纬向上不存在明显的运动，一直停留在略低于现今纬度的位置上。     

黄海风暴潮和天文潮非线性耦合作用的数值研究

本文以4个主要分潮之和为开边界输入条件,对黄海天文潮及8114、7708、7303号台风潮与天文潮耦合作用进行数值模拟,计算结果与实测值基本相符,又通过模拟的流场和水位的变化,分析了不同风暴条件下,天文潮与风暴潮及其流场耦合作用的时空变化规律,从水位场流场整体上研究其相互关系及其动力机制。讨论了几种主要动力因素在非线性耦合作用中的作用,取得了一些有益的结果。     

清水沟流路期间黄河三角洲区潮波运动的模拟和预测

为了探讨黄河三角洲附近潮波运动的变化特征，乐肯堂等(1995)用二维数值模式模拟了1855-1984年该海区的潮汐和潮流的分布变化，并着重考察了M2和S2分潮的无潮点，以及规则全日潮区的位置变化。乐肯堂等(1995)的研究表明，黄河尾闾的摆动以及由此而造成的黄河三角洲之进退，是该海区潮波特征发生变化的主要外因。自从1976年黄河尾闾改道清水沟以来，该流路已稳定运行了20多年，由此造成了河口附近沙嘴不断向莱州湾内延伸，因而对该区的潮波分布特征产生了显著影响。从黄河三角洲区的经济可持续发展和海洋生态环境的可持续发展的目的出发来规划今后黄河尾闾的走向，就必须对以下两个问题进行深入研究：(1)清水沟流路是否还能长期稳定下去；(2)如果清水沟流路长期稳定不变，并且按照清水沟流路期间黄河三角洲向莱州湾推进的方式来推演10a后黄河三角洲的形势，那么到2010年该区的潮波运动将会发生什么变化。为此，在本文中我们仍然采用乐肯堂等(1995)已经过验证的数值模式和数值预的方法对上述问题作初步探讨。