Probabilistic Models for the Probability of Wave Breaking and Whitecap Coverage Based on Kinematic Breaking Criterion

More and more researches show that neither the critical downward acceleration nor the critical slope of water waves is a universal constant. On the contrary, they vary with particular wave conditions. This fact moders the models either for the probability of wave breaking B or for the whitecap coverage W based on these criteria difficult to apply. In this paper and the one which follows we seek to develop models for the prediction of both B and W based on the kinematical criterion. First, several joint probabihstic distribution functions (PDFs) of wave characteristics are derived, based on which the breaking properties B and W are estimated. The estimation is made on the assumption that a wave breaks ff the horizontal velocity of water particles at its crest exceeds the local wave celerity, and whitecapping occurs in regions of fluid where water particles travel faster than the waves. The consequent B and W depend on wave spectral moments of orders 0 to 4.Then the JONSWAP spectrum is used to represent the fetch-limited sea waves in deep water, so as to relate the probahility of wave breaking and the whitecap coverage with wind parameters. To this end, the time-averaging technique proposed by Glazman (1986) is applied to the estimation of the spectral moments involved, and furthermore, the theoretical models are compared with available observations collected from published literature. From the comparison, the averaging time scale is determined. The final models show that the probability of wave breaking as well as the whitecap coverage depends on the dimensionless fetch. The agreement between these models and the database is reasonable.     

福建省海洋学会第四届会员代表大会召开

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本文是国家海洋局北海分局小麦岛海洋站自动观测系统的构成、软件组成和特点以及发展前景的简要汇集。     

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本文采用随机格林函数方法求解了电磁场随机波动方程,给出了具有倾斜表面含气泡海浪的体散射系数表达式,并且指出,当电磁波近垂直入射时,只应用面散射模型是不充分的,必须考虑体散射效应.同时讨论了当入射角在20°～30°之间体散射系数与面散射系数的加权对接问题,给出了完整的海面散射系数计算过程.     

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完善体制 调整分工 加快立法 加强监督——我国海洋管理工作又取得新进展

本文试图从完善国家海洋管理体制、加强海洋法制建设、实施海洋综合管理、加快海洋开发试验、参与国际海洋事务等五个方面,展示国家海洋局在履行政府管理职能方面所发挥的重要作用。     

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