Evaluation of the simulation capability of the Wavewatch Ⅲ model for Pacific Ocean wave

Wave climate analysis and other applications for the Pacific Ocean require a reliable wave hindcast. Five source and sink term packages in the Wavewatch III model(v3.14 and v4.18) are compared and assessed in this study through comprehensive observations, including altimeter significant wave height, advanced synthetic aperture radar swell, and buoy wave parameters and spectrum. In addition to the evaluation of typically used integral parameters, the spectra partitioning method contributes to the detailed wave system and wave maturity validation. The modified performance evaluation method(PS) effectively reduces attribute numbers and facilitates the overall assessment. To avoid possible misleading results in the root mean square error-based validations, another indicator called HH(indicating the two authors) is also calculated to guarantee the consistency of the results. The widely used Tolman and Chalikov(TC) package is still generally efficient in determining the integral properties of wave spectra but is physically deficient in explaining the dissipation processes. The ST4 package performs well in overall wave parameters and significantly improves the accuracy of wave systems in the open ocean. Meanwhile, the newly published ST6 package is slightly better in determining swell energy variations. The two packages(ACC350 and BJA) obtained from Wavewatch III v3.14 exhibit large scatters at different sea states. The three most ideal packages are further examined in terms of reproducing waveinduced momentum flux from the perspective of transport. Stokes transport analysis indicates that ST4 is the closest to the NDBC-buoy-spectrum-based transport values, and TC and ST6 tend to overestimate and underestimate the transport magnitude, respectively, in swell mixed areas. This difference must be considered,particularly in air–wave–current coupling research and upper ocean analysis. The assessment results provide guidance for the selection of ST4 for use in a background Pacific Ocean hindcast for high wave climate research and China Sea swell type analysis.     

利用波浪谱理论计算我国近岸波浪能方法研究

简述了当前被较多应用于我国近岸波浪能计算的简化公式会带来较大计算误差的事实,指出了这是因不合理假设和化简造成的结果。在此基础上,提出了利用波浪谱计算我国近岸波浪能的计算思路,同时利用波浪谱参量与实测数据比对,间接证明了该思路的合理性。     

波浪产生和运动的二阶计算模型

在快速模拟波浪运动的谱方法基础上,引入造波边界,建立了模拟波浪产生和运动的二阶计算模型。采用摄动展开方法简化了带有造波边界的水波运动问题,将速度势分解,得到了满足造波边界和自由面边界的速度势的一般解,运用快速Fourier变换和时间积分,建立了模拟波浪产生和运动的数学模型。基于该模型,采用不同的数值造波条件,模拟了波浪的产生问题;考虑了波浪的初始运动问题;通过把数值结果与物理实验的比较,验证了波浪计算模型的有效性。     

当前海洋波浪测量的技术特点和实测分析

全面地比较和总结了当前包括压力式测波、声学式测波、浮标式测波和遥测式测波在内的几种主要的海洋波浪测量方法的技术特点;对相应类型的典型代表型号的仪器主要技术指标进行了对比;对不同类型测量方法及其对应的仪器的具体适用环境给出了分析和建议。实际结合了ADCP,AWAC,Wave Duo测波浮球等几种海洋波浪测量仪器于2014年12月在江苏省南通市近海相近区域的同步实测数据,对这几种仪器的海洋波浪测量的响应和过程特征进行了对比和分析,这对相关的海洋波浪测量技术和对应的测波仪器设备特点也是一个很好的验证。     

波致海底缓倾角无限坡滑动稳定性计算分析探讨

波浪作用下海底无限坡滑动稳定性计算的极限平衡法中,忽略了坡体水平向应力状态的影响,为此,针对波浪作用下海底缓倾角无限边坡的特点,提出直接基于滑动面处土体应力状态的滑动稳定性计算方法(简称应力状态法),并分析了其适用范围。对具体算例的分析表明,应力状态法计算得出的安全系数大于极限平衡法的安全系数,且随着滑动面深度的增加、土体泊松比以及边坡坡角的增大,两种计算方法得出的安全系数的差异会逐渐增大;对于波浪作用下的海底缓倾角无限边坡,在失稳时极可能沿具有一定厚度的滑动带而不是单一的滑动面而滑动,且波致最大剪应力所在的深度,常常不是斜坡体最易失稳滑移的深度。     

波浪动力因素变化对沙质岸滩演变的影响

通过波浪水槽实验,对海平面变化造成的波浪动力因素改变引起的沙质岸滩形态响应开展机理性研究。实验采用1∶10单一沙质斜坡概化岸滩,利用3种不同实验水深模拟海平面变化,考虑椭圆余弦波、非规则波、规则波和孤立波4种类型波浪作用。实验对波浪在斜坡上的传播变形、破碎、上爬和回落过程的波高及波浪作用后的岸滩地形进行了测量。实验结果表明,椭圆余弦波、规则波和非规则波作用下,平衡岸滩呈现出滩肩形态,孤立波作用下则呈沙坝形态。海平面上升造成波浪动力增强,沙质岸滩平衡剖面形状基本保持不变向岸平移,槽谷、滩肩、沙坝位置以及岸线蚀退距离,均呈现出良好规律性。     

波浪概率模型试验方法研究

目前常用的确定性模型试验不能满足海岸工程结构可靠度设计的要求。针对设计波高、周期、作用方向和水位四个水动力因素的不确定性,提出了波浪概率模型试验及其分析方法,供实验室物理和数学模型实验应用。     

缓坡地形拍岸浪数值模拟研究

采用基于完全非线性Boussinesq方程建立的精细化海浪数值模型——Funwave-TVD模式及水槽实验数据进行拍岸浪数值模拟研究,并对不同入射情况拍岸浪进行数值模拟得出:拍岸浪缓坡传播过程中,均符合波高先增大直至破碎后迅速减小这一现象;在典型坡度1.91°(1∶30)情况下,进行了大量数值模拟,当仅入射波高增大时,破碎波高增大,破碎位置向深水区移动;当仅入射周期增大时,除上述特征外,当周期增大到一定程度时,这种趋势显著减弱;同时,当入射周期和波高较大时,非线性效应增强,模拟结果出现不稳定。下一步将利用实验与数值模拟相结合的优势,对前人拍岸浪预报方法和理论进行深入分析研究,为实现拍岸浪精细化预报提供优化解决方案。     

A Synoptic Snapshot of the East Cape Eddy （ECE）

1Introduction The East Australian Current(EAC)partially sepa-rates from the coast of Australia(Godfrey et al.,1980)and subsequently flows eastward along the Tas-man Front(TF)(Warren,1970).When the east-ward flow reaches the northernmost point of New Zealand,it turns southeastward and becomes the East Auckland Current(EAUC).The flow that goesround the East Cape is named the Ease Cape Current(ECC).The ECC separates from North Island and proceeds eastward to the north of the Chatha…