Wind-Wave Frequency Spectra of New Dalian Port

This paper, based on wave data measured with Type 956 Directional WAVE-TRACK Buoy System at new Dalian Port for a whole year, analyses the properties of the wave frequency spectra, and derives the formula for the frequency spectrum of wind-waves.     

Changes in the wind-wave field and related salt-marsh lateral erosion: inferences from the evolution of the Venice Lagoon in the last four centuries

Salt marshes are crucially important ecosystems at the boundary between the land and the sea, that are experiencing significant losses worldwide mainly dictated by the erosion of their margins. Improving our understanding of the mechanisms controlling marsh edge erosion is a key step to address conservation issues and salt-marsh response to changes in the environmental forcing. Here we have employed a complete, coupled Wind-Wave Tidal Model (WWTM) to analyse the temporal evolution of the wave field, and in particular of the mean wave-power density, in the Venice Lagoon over the past four centuries (from 1611 to 2012). We have then related wave-field changes to the observed erosion patterns determined by comparing recent aerial photographs (1978–2010) and historical bathymetric data. The results of our analyses from the Venice Lagoon show that, while wave-fields did not significantly change from 1611 to 1901, a rapid increase in wave-power densities occurred in the last century. This is suggested to depend on the positive feedback between relevant morphological evolutions and changes in the wave field, both influenced by natural forcing and anthropogenic pressures. We also emphasize the existence of a strong positive linear relationship between the volumetric marsh erosion rate and mean wave-power density. We thus suggest that relating salt-marsh lateral erosion rates to properly computed mean wave-power densities provides a valuable tool to address long-term tidal morphodynamics. © 2019 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

风浪和涌浪分离方法的比较

海浪通常以风浪和涌浪混合的形式存在。文中利用模型试验和实测资料,对目前提出的一种二维谱风涌浪分离方法(2D法)和3种一维谱风涌浪分离方法(PM法、WH法、JP法)进行了检验,分析发现:2D法给出的结果整体而言最为可靠,与2D法相比,PM法明显高估了风浪成分,WH法低风速时高估了风浪,高风速时跟2D法比较接近,而JP法在整体上高估了风浪成分。通过调整分割频率的比例系数,改进了PM法,改进后的PM法给出的分离结果与2D法最为一致。     

用于海气界面微尺度过程观测的水槽设计与实验

为了给海气界面研究中的仿真与验证提供较全面的研究数据, 根据现有技术基础和国际前沿观测技术及设备的发展水平, 设计完成了具有造风造波能力, 并满足小尺度波浪破碎和混合、微尺度坡度场、水体内部的湍流混合、界面的热辐射及传输等过程观测需要的小型多功能水槽。实验结果表明,该小型多功能水槽各部分配合顺畅, 达到了各项观测技术的要求。该水槽可以成为海气界面研究的一个多手段、便捷的室内实验平台。     

风浪扰动对太湖水体悬浮物重金属含量的影响

通过离心浓缩的方法,获取太湖梅梁湾口东岸处(即梅梁湾与贡湖湾的交界处)不同风浪条件下的悬浮颗粒物．冷冻干燥,微波消解,ICP-AES的方法测定了其中Co、Cr、Cu、Ni、Pb、Zn等重金属元素及Al、Ca、Fe、Mn等相关金属元素的含量．结果发现,小风浪(2 m/s)、中风浪(7 m/s)和大风浪(11 m/s)下：①水体总悬浮颗粒态金属的量依次大幅度增加;②单位悬浮颗粒物中各金属元素的含量在不同风浪下变化不同．Ca在小、中、大风浪下含量依次增大;Zn在小、中、大风浪下含量依次减少;Mn和Cu的含量变化趋势相同：与小风浪相比,中风浪下Mn、Cu的含量显著增大;与中风浪相比,大风浪下含量显著减少;其它元素Al、Fe、Ni、Pb、Co、Cr等在单位悬浮物中,中风浪与小风浪相比含量减少,大风浪与中风浪相比含量略微增加．研究表明：①金属元素在水体总悬浮物中的含量主要受风浪影响,但风浪对单位悬浮物中金属含量的影响则因元素而异;②除Cu、Mn、Zn外,悬浮物中重金属含量随粒径增大含量减少．     

台湾海峡风涌浪分离方法研究

受狭管效应的影响,台湾海峡波浪较大且常与涌浪混合存在。涌浪对包括船舶在内的浮式结构物有着重要的影响,而风涌浪分离是研究涌浪特性的必要前提,也一直是研究的热点和困难问题。由于数据的欠缺和观测条件的限制,在风涌浪分离方法中被普遍认可的二维谱方法常常难以使用,如何选择更为精准的一维谱方法往往会成为实际研究和应用过程中必须面对的问题。利用台湾海峡内3个具有二维谱数据的测站,通过将二维谱分离结果作为参考,针对台湾海峡风浪和涌浪的特征,探讨了风涌浪分离一维谱方法在该海域的适用性问题,研究表明风速法相较其他方法精度更好,在这一基础上提出了一种将波谱积分法与风速法相结合的一维谱方法。     

Examination of wind-wave interaction source term in WAVEWATCH III with tropical cyclone wind forcing

Results of drag coefficient(CD) from field observations and laboratory wave tank experiments indicate that the operational wave model can overestimate wind energy input under high wind conditions. The wind-wave interaction source term in WAVEWATCH Ⅲ has been modified to examine its behavior with tropical cyclone wind forcing. Using high resolution wind input,numerical experiments under idealized wind field and tropical cyclone Bonnie(1998) were designed to evaluate performance of the modified models. Both experiments indicate that the modified models with reduced CD significantly decrease wind energy input into the wave model and then simulate lower significant wave height(SWH) than the original model. However,the effects on spatial distribution of SWH,mean wavelength,mean wave direction,and directional wave spectra are insignificant. Due to the reduced wind energy input,the idealized experiment shows that the modified models simulate lower SWH than the original model in all four quadrants. The decrease in the front quadrants is significantly larger than that in the rear quadrants;it is larger under higher winds than lower winds. The realistic experiment on tropical cyclone Bonnie shows that the modified model with the various downward trends of CD in high winds creates a simulation that agrees best with scanning radar altimeter observations.     

Assessing the recent (1834 – 2002) morphological evolution of a rapidly prograding delta within a GIS framework: Macquarie Rivulet delta,Lake Illawarra,New South Wales

The recent morphological evolution of Macquarie Rivulet delta, Lake Illawarra, New South Wales, has been assessed from historical parish maps from 1834, 1892, 1916 and 1927 along with aerial photographs from 1938 to 2002. These images were digitised, georeferenced and analysed in a GIS framework. The 1834 sketch map could not be georeferenced and it was excluded from the calculation of delta progradation areas. Between 1892 and 1927 morphological changes were minimal, probably because the areas were not resurveyed between these map editions. A significant change in morphology between 1927 and 1938 reflects a change in source material from maps to aerial photographs. The research highlights that great care must be taken when utilising historical data. Major morphological changes observed between 1938 and 2002 included the development of a large crevasse splay in the 1960s to 1970s and the abandonment and infilling of the delta's previously active distributary channels. The research shows that the morphological changes observed on the delta can be related to both natural processes and anthropogenic modifications to the catchment and thus could be used in the development of catchment management plans.     

Contemporary process controls on the evolution of sedimentary coasts under low to high energy regimes: western Ireland

Sedimentary environments, representative of the Irish west coast, have been studied to examine their responses at the microscale (10^-1–10⁰ yr). This was achieved using a variety of techniques, including grain-size analysis, measurement of accretionary responses and radiometric dating. Monthly elevation monitoring of silt-dominated marshes shows an annual pattern in sediment accumulation. This reflects two processes: a) winter accretion attributable to storm events, and b) summer consolidation and contraction of the marsh sediments. Together, the results suggest that intertidal sedimentation is likely to be dominated by episodic processes, primarily storms. Examination of the tidal regime shows a weaker than expected influence of hydroperiodicity on intertidal accretion, although this influence remains distinctive, as expressed by a landward textural fining. Storms were also identified as of major importance in the functioning of higher-energy sandy coastal systems, again having a largely accretional influence, primarily through aeolian transport. Erosion at such study sites is probably controlled by the attainment of a critical threshold surface elevation, or by exceptional storm action, or a combination of both. The linking of microscale sedimentation rates with those at the meso- to macroscale, and assessment of their importance for coastal functioning, is difficult due to the geological averaging effect of the sedimentary record. Human impacts on this coast in historical times are large but difficult to quantify.     

Three-Dimensional Simulation of Water Circulation in the Java Sea: Influence of Wind Waves on Surface and Bottom Stresses

A one-year simulation of tide- andwind-driven circulation in the Java Sea, which is one ofthe Indonesian seas located in a tropical area, hasbeen carried out using a three-dimensionalhydrodynamic model incorporating the influence of thewind waves generated at the sea surface. This area isinfluenced by the monsoon climate (east- andwest-monsoon). Six hourly-wind fields at 10 m abovethe sea surface were used as a representative windfield. In other respects, the effect of waves on thethree-dimensional hydrodynamic model has beenrepresented by the surface and bottom stresses. Athird-generation wave model called WAM (WAMDI, 1988)was used to calculate the wave parameters and thewave dependence of the drag coefficient. Thetrajectory of water particles induced by thecalculated velocity fields in the Java Sea was then simulated.In dealing with hazardous phenomena, this modelwill be extended to predict suspended sediment fluxes,particularly those relating to catastrophic changes in seabottom topography and beach erosion. It is also animportant tool for the prediction of storm surge events.