Wave Defending Effects of V-Type Bottom-Mounted Breakwaters

An analytical method is developed for the study of the wave defending effects of the V-type bottom-mounted breakwater. The breakwater is assumed to be rigid, thin, impermeable and vertically located in water of constant depth. The fluid domain is divided into three sub-regions by an imaginary interface. The velocity potential in each region is expanded by eigenfunctions. By satisfying the corresponding boundary conditions and matching conditions in and between sub-regions, a set of hnear algebraic equations can be obtained to determine the unknown coetfficients for the eigenfunction expansions for each sub-region. The accuracy of the present model is verified by a comparison with existing results for the case of an isolated breakwater. Numerical results, in the form of contour maps of the relative wave amplitude around the breakwater, are presented for a range of wave and breakwater parameters. The results show that the V-type bottommounted breakwater is generally effective in defending against waves. In general, the wave height in the protected area is about 20-50 percent of the incident wave height.     

风暴期间黄河水下三角洲波浪变形

为确定适用黄河三角洲的波动理论，对黄河三角洲风暴期间及前后波浪连续观测资料进行了处理，将其投在komar波浪理论分区图中后，分析了风暴期间黄河水下三角洲波浪的波形特征，发现站位所在地适合的波浪理论主要为艾里波和斯托克斯波，风暴期间波浪变形，还存在少量超过极限波陡线的波浪，通过比较常见的极限波陡线，看出Miche曲线比较适合该研究区。     

Change of multifractal thermal characteristics in the western Philippine sea upper layer during internal wave-soliton propagation

The upper layer (above 140 m depth) temperature in the western Philippine Sea near Taiwan was sampled using a coastal monitoring buoy (CMB) with 15 attached thermistors during July 28–August 7, 2005. The data were collected every 10 min at 1, 3, 5, 10, 15, and 20 m using the CMB sensors, and every 15 sec at 15 different depths between 25 m and 140 m. Internal waves and solitons were identified from the time-depth plot of the temperature field. Without the internal waves and solitons, the power spectra, structure functions, and singular measures (representing the intermittency) of temperature field satisfy the power law with multi-scale characteristics at all depths. The internal waves do not change the basic characteristics of the multifractal structure. However, the internal solitons change the power exponent of the power spectra drastically, especially in the low wave number domain; they also break down the power law of the structure function and increase the intermittency parameter. The physical mechanisms causing these different effects need to be explored further.     

桩式离岸堤保滩促淤工程消浪效果试验研究

在上海奉贤南北港保滩促淤工程中，采用了一种新型结构型式－桩式离岸堤，并通过物理模式试验进行了桩式离岸堤消浪效果研究。针对离岸堤通常建于近岸水区破波带的特点，重点研究水深，堤高以及堤身结构对波浪衰减的影响，同时对桩式离岸堤堤后水域的波浪底流速 分析探讨。研究结果表明，桩式离岸堤不仅具有良好的消浪效果。而且可在较大范围内改变波态，即由引起水体剧烈紊动的破波转变为浅水推进波，从而有效地改善海滩上的动力条件，促进海滩免受侵蚀，是一种具有广泛应用前景和新型保滩促淤结构。     

Numerical Simulation of Wave Field near Submerged Bars by PLIC-VOF Model

Investigating the wave field near structures in coastal and offshore engineering is of increasing significance. In the present study, simulation is done of the wave profile and flow field for waves propagating over submerged bars, using PLIC-VOF （Pieeewise Linear Interface Construction） to trace the free surface of wave and finite difference method to solve vertical 2D Navier-Stokes （N-S） equations. A comparison of the numerical results for two kinds of submerged bars with the experimental ones shows that the PLIC-VOF model used in this study is effective and can compute the wave field precisely.     

减少航道外波浪集聚对策研究

进港航道开挖引起波能重新分布 ,导致航道外近区域波能聚集 ,波高增大 ,从而影响防波堤稳定及港内泊稳条件。文章介绍了 Boussinesq方程的推导过程和发展过程 ,基于深水和缓变地形的色散关系 ,建立了波浪数学模型。该模型可用于研究深水和浅水地区波浪的浅水变形、折射、绕射和反射。并提出了减少波能聚集、降低堤前波高的多种措施。结合大窑湾港实际工程 ,经过多方面的数物模比选 ,利用数学模型优化出一种可行的喇叭口航道开挖方案并付诸实施 ,降低了防波堤的堤前波高 ,满足了预期的设计要求。     

双峰谱型海浪的波高和周期分布

本文利用收集到的实测双峰谱型海浪过程资料，把这些资料以波高和周期的相关系数为参数分成５组，讨论每组双峰谱型下被高、周期的统计分布．并探讨了相关系数对波高分布和周期分布的影响。     

深海资料浮标体及系泊系统的阻力试验研究

本文结合国家“七五”重点科技攻关项目“深海资料浮标”研制而进行浮标体和系泊系统的各种阻力试验研究，试验成果已直接应用于深海资料浮标系泊系统设计。实践表明本文介绍的各种阻力试验结果是可靠的。     

南海北部—观测点内潮特征的初步分析

采用功率谱分析、调和分析等方法，对南海北部－观测点连续９ｄ（１９８８年５月８—１６日）的温度。盐度和海流及跨越该期间较长的（１９８８年４月２４日－７月２２日）潮位资料进行了分析研究。结果表明，观测点存在着一种内潮现象，其波动的周期在２４ｈ左右，它传播的方向大体是偏北。     

分层海洋的内孤立波

本文从流体力学基本方程组出发,在非地转条件下导得了分层海洋的内孤立波方程—Kbv和mKdv方程,证实了在非地转条件下,一类海洋非线性波动是可以严格满足内孤立波方程的。在地转条件下采用f平面近似导出了KdV方程的演化形式一有源KdV方程,地转的影响含于源项中。由初步的分析得出,f对KdV方程的影响是微弱的。由已得的KdV和mKdV方程的解可知,内孤立波与线性波有着本质差别。