The Nonlinear Wave Force on a Circular Cylinder in Shallow Water

Based on the 1st order cnoidal wave theory, the nonlinear wave diffraction around a circular cylinder in shallow water is studied in this paper. The equation of the wave surface around the cylinder is formulated and by using this formula the wave surface elevation on the cylinder surface can be obtained. In this paper, the formula for calculating the cnoidal wave force on a circular cylinder is also derived. For the wave conditions which are often encountered in practical engineering designs, the ratios of the nonlinear wave forces to the linear wave forces are calculated, and the results are plotted in this paper for design purposes. In order to verify the theoretical results, model tests are conducted. After comparing the test results with the theoretical ones, it is concluded that, in shallow water, for the case of T g / d~(1/2) > 8-10 and H / d > 0.3, the cnoidal wave theory should be used to calculate the wave action on a cylindrical pier.     

秦山核电站邻近水域浮游植物的生态研究

本文分析了秦山核电站邻近水域生态零点调查四个航次的浮游植物样品,结果表明:调查区浮游植物的种数和细胞密度在时间尺度上均存在明显的季节变化趋势:夏大于秋大于春大于冬,并且与环境因子的变化密切相关,其中最主要的影响因子是温度、盐度和径流,而影响日变化的环境因子主要是潮汐。     

闽南：台湾浅滩渔场变性水团的初步分析

根据聚类方法，对闽南－台湾浅滩渔场变性水团进行划分，本海区共有６个变性水团。讨论各个变性水团在不同季节消长变化规律。     

Interstitial water chemistry of the inner continental shelf sediments off the gironde estuary

The interstitial water composition ( , alkalinity, Ca²⁺, Mg²⁺, Sr²⁺, Na⁺, K⁺) and the cation exchange capacity (CEC) were determined for the muddy sediments of the continental shelf off the Gironde Estuary (France), in the area where the sediment represents the deposit of the muddy suspension of the river. In comparison with seawater concentrations, the pore waters below 10 cm depth, show depletions of and Ca²⁺ and below a 30 cm depth show depletions of Mg²⁺. Inversely, the upper 10 cm an enrichment of Ca²⁺ concentration, and an increase of K⁺ concentration to a 40 cm depth. High values of are observed at the top 4 cm. Alkalinity enrichment is observed along the length of the core. Applying the alkalinity models for the sediment below a 10 cm depth demonstrates generally that calculated alkalinities are higher than the measured ones. Ca²⁺ dissolution occurs at the first 10 cm and authigenic carbonate precipitation starts beneath that level. Mg²⁺ depletion is accompanied by bicarbonate loss. This proves that Mg²⁺ depletion is due to a Mg-silicate reaction. The result of the CEC does not confirm the Mg²⁺ uptake by clay minerals in exchangeable site, under reducing conditions. Diffusion and bioturbation play an important role in the pore water concentration at the top of the core.     

受陆岸影响浅水区台风风浪的计算方案

在我国港口工程技术规范的波浪成长理论基础上，考虑到台风波浪的基本特点、等效水深的概念、浅水区波浪的折射、不规则波的能量分布特性、受陆岸和岛屿影响角度范围内的有效能量风区长度等因素，提出了受陆岸、岛屿影响浅水区（包括海湾区）台风风浪的计算方案。本方案只需台风中心位置、中心气压和计算点于各方位的风区长度（受陆岸影响部分）等资料，便可快速地得到计算点的波浪要素。经实测资料验证，效果良好。     

Frequency-selective attenuation of sound propagation and reverberation in shallow water

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The impact of salt water inflows on the distribution of polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons in the deep water of the Baltic Sea

Salt-water inflows into the Baltic Sea are important events for renewing the deep and bottom waters of the deep basins of the Baltic Sea. These events occur only at irregular intervals. The last strong event was in January 1993 followed by minor inflows in winter 1993/1994. As a result of these inflows, the deep water of the central Baltic basins was completely renewed.Based on extensive observations of polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs) in water, fluffy layer material and surface sediments between 1992 and 1998, the transformation of PAHs and the modification of their distribution in the Baltic deep water is discussed in connection with the spreading of the inflowing highly saline and oxygen-rich water along its pathway from the sills into the central basins. In the course of the inflows in 1993/1994, the PAH concentration in the deep water of the different basins increased significantly. The concentrations were elevated, at least by a factor of 2 and as much as seven to eight times (for the four-ring PAHs) compared to the previous and the following years. Two hypotheses for the causes were discussed: the inflowing salt water may have entrained more highly polluted surface water in the western Baltic Sea, or it may have entrained contaminated fluffy layer material or sediment particles along the route of transport.     

基于神经网络的平底结构砰击压力预报

对利用神经网络预报平底结构入水砰击压力的方法进行了探讨。首先利用仿真软件计算各种情况下平底结构入水所产生的砰击压力，以此形成训练神经网络的数据集。其次利用数据集对三层反馈式网络进行了训练，讨论了不同隐含层节点数对该非线性系统的拟合能力，并且对梯度下降法、动量修正法和基于优化的LM算法的有效性和精度进行了比较，最后得出了适合平底结构入水砰击系统的网络结构。     

Preliminary optical classification of lakes and coastal waters in Estonia and south Finland

A preliminary optical classification of lakes in Estonia and south Finland which can also be used for small bays of the Baltic Sea is elaborated. The classification is based on the optical properties of water (diffuse attenuation coefficient, diffuse reflectance) and parameters that are routinely monitored in water bodies (Secchi depth, concentration of chlorophyll-a, total suspended matter and yellow substance). The data complex used for our classification covers different types of water ecosystems (ranging from oligotrophic to hypertrophic) and the variability of water constituent concentrations in the ice-free period in Estonia and south Finland. Using cluster analysis, we found 5 optical classes of waters: clear (C), moderate (M), turbid (T), very turbid (V) and brown (B). There is satisfactory correspondence between class of water, shape of diffuse attenuation coefficient and diffuse reflectance spectra and trophic state of the lakes.     

Analysis of seabed instability using element free Galerkin method

Wave-induced seabed instability, either momentary liquefaction or shear failure, is an important topic in ocean and coastal engineering. Many factors, such as seabed properties and wave parameters, affect the seabed instability. A non-dimensional parameter is proposed in this paper to evaluate the occurrence of momentary liquefaction. This parameter includes the properties of the soil and the wave. The determination of the wave-induced liquefaction depth is also suggested based on this non-dimensional parameter. As an example, a two-dimensional seabed with finite thickness is numerically treated with the EFGM meshless method developed early for wave-induced seabed responses. Parametric study is carried out to investigate the effect of wavelength, compressibility of pore fluid, permeability and stiffness of porous media, and variable stiffness with depth on the seabed response with three criteria for liquefaction. It is found that this non-dimensional parameter is a good index for identifying the momentary liquefaction qualitatively, and the criterion of liquefaction with seepage force can be used to predict the deepest liquefaction depth.