Action of Cnoidal Waves on Vertical Walls

Based on the 2nd order cnoidal wave theory, the characters of shallow water standing waves and their action on vertical walls are studied in this paper. The theoretical expressions of the wave surface elevation in front of and the wave pressure on the vertical wall are obtained. In order to verify the theoretical results, model tests were made in the State Key Laboratory of Coastal and Offshore Engineering at DUT. For the wave surface elevation in front of the wall and the wave forces on the wall at the moment when the wave surface at the wall surface goes down to the bottom of the wave trough, the calculated results coincide quite well with the experimental results. For the wave forces on the wall at the moment when the wave surface at the wall surface goes up to the top of the wave crest, the theoretical expressions are modified by the experimental results. For the convenience of practical use, calculations are made for the wave conditions which usually occur in enginering practice by use of the inves     

The Nonlinear Wave Force on a Circular Cylinder in Shallow Water

Based on the 1st order cnoidal wave theory, the nonlinear wave diffraction around a circular cylinder in shallow water is studied in this paper. The equation of the wave surface around the cylinder is formulated and by using this formula the wave surface elevation on the cylinder surface can be obtained. In this paper, the formula for calculating the cnoidal wave force on a circular cylinder is also derived. For the wave conditions which are often encountered in practical engineering designs, the ratios of the nonlinear wave forces to the linear wave forces are calculated, and the results are plotted in this paper for design purposes. In order to verify the theoretical results, model tests are conducted. After comparing the test results with the theoretical ones, it is concluded that, in shallow water, for the case of T g / d~(1/2) > 8-10 and H / d > 0.3, the cnoidal wave theory should be used to calculate the wave action on a cylindrical pier.     

A Computational Model for Velocity Separation in Shallow Sea

Based on the hydrodynamical feature and the theoretical velocity profiles of tidal flow and vvind-induced flow in shal-low sea, a computational model is established for the first time, which can separate observed velocity into tidal velocity and wind-induced velocity by use of the least square method. With the model, not only the surface velocities of tidal flow and vvind-induced flow are obtained, but also the bed roughness height is determined and the wind velocity above the wa-ter surface is estimated. For verification of the model, the observed velocity in the Yellow River Estuary and the laborato-ry test is separated, then it is applied to the Yangtze River Estuary. All the results are satisfactory. The research results show that the model is simple in method, feasible in process and reasonable in result. The model is a valid approach to analysis and computation of field dala, and can be applied to separate the observed velocity in shallow sea; at the same time, reasonable boundary conditions of th     

正压浅海湍流运动的雷诺应力封闭模型

根据湍流封闭理论,建立一种适用于正压浅海湍流运动的雷诺应力封闭模型(RSM),以代替目前三维浅海动力学模型中普遍采用的湍粘性系数的传统假设。通过直接建立并模化f—平面上正压海洋的雷诺应力传输方程,分别得到的微分形式和代数形式的RSM方程组。并讨论了进行数值计算所需要的边界条件。利用该模型可以进一步研究浅海潮流、风暴潮流及风海流等浅海流动的三维结构和湍流特性。     

福建漳浦前湖湾有孔虫群落及其沉积环境

对福建漳浦前湖湾潮间带两个钻孔岩心和表层沉积物中的有孔虫进行分析研究,有孔虫出现在钻孔最上部厚约2.46-2.96m的砂层中.根据群落优势种生态和非种特征判断,该段各样品有孔虫沉积环境均为近岸浅水环境,尽管其间海面有过3次上下波动变化.根据地层关系判断,其当为现代的产物.     

地质环境特征及工程适应性与选择性分析——青岛市城市地质环境研究

根据地形地貌、地质构造、水文地质条件将青岛市划分为６个工程地质亚区，论述了各亚区地质环境特征，结合不同城市建筑工程特点，进行了工程场地适应性和选择性分析评价，为充分合理利用城市地质环境提供良好依据     

考虑底摩擦的波浪折射计算

本文用考虑底摩擦的折射模式计算了浅水中波高和波向分布。作为一个例子,根据不同的摩擦系数和不同的边界条件计算了一种简单海底地形的折射系数、衰减系数和折射角,所得结果与不考虑底摩擦的折射模式结果进行比较,发展它们之间存在一些差异,表明在浅水中底摩擦对波高有一定影响。     

城市建设中的地震小区划与浅层地震探测

简要阐述地震小区划在现代城市建设中的重要性以及在实施地震小区划的研究中浅层地震探测的重要作用及其方法原理,并给出应用浅层地震探测在城市地震小区划中的实例。     

受陆岸影响浅水区台风风浪的计算方案

在我国港口工程技术规范的波浪成长理论基础上，考虑到台风波浪的基本特点、等效水深的概念、浅水区波浪的折射、不规则波的能量分布特性、受陆岸和岛屿影响角度范围内的有效能量风区长度等因素，提出了受陆岸、岛屿影响浅水区（包括海湾区）台风风浪的计算方案。本方案只需台风中心位置、中心气压和计算点于各方位的风区长度（受陆岸影响部分）等资料，便可快速地得到计算点的波浪要素。经实测资料验证，效果良好。     

Frequency-selective attenuation of sound propagation and reverberation in shallow water

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