Prediction of impact pressure induced by breaking waves on vertical cylinders in random seas

This paper presents a method to statistically predict the magnitude of impact pressure (including extreme values) produced by deep water waves breaking on a circular cylinder representing a column of an ocean structure. Breaking waves defined here are not those whose tops are blown off by the wind but those whose breaking is associated with steepness. The probability density function of wave period associated with breaking waves is derived for a specified wave spectrum, and then converted to the probability density function of impact pressure. Impacts caused by two different breaking conditions are considered; one is the impact associated with waves breaking in close proximity to the column, the other is an impact caused by waves approaching the column after they have broken. As an example of the application of the present method, numerical computations are carried out for a wave spectrum obtained from measured data in the North Atlantic.     

A Computational Model for Velocity Separation in Shallow Sea

Based on the hydrodynamical feature and the theoretical velocity profiles of tidal flow and vvind-induced flow in shal-low sea, a computational model is established for the first time, which can separate observed velocity into tidal velocity and wind-induced velocity by use of the least square method. With the model, not only the surface velocities of tidal flow and vvind-induced flow are obtained, but also the bed roughness height is determined and the wind velocity above the wa-ter surface is estimated. For verification of the model, the observed velocity in the Yellow River Estuary and the laborato-ry test is separated, then it is applied to the Yangtze River Estuary. All the results are satisfactory. The research results show that the model is simple in method, feasible in process and reasonable in result. The model is a valid approach to analysis and computation of field dala, and can be applied to separate the observed velocity in shallow sea; at the same time, reasonable boundary conditions of th     

沃克环流上升区赤道低空强西风带的分析

采用ＴＯＧＡ／ＣＯＡＲＥ国际合作考察期间（１９９２年１０月─１９９３年２月）获得的２６７次定点（２°Ｓ，１５５°Ｅ）定时高空大气探测资料，进行计算分析，发现１９９２年１２月─１９９３年２月低空存在一支西风急流，有两次分别持续半月之久，而１９９２年１１月的两次赤道西风急流，因无赤道高空急流配合，仅持续２ｄ便消失。本文还指出：（１）赤道低空西风急流是各种海－气指数产生ＥＮＳＯ异常的重要信息；（２）赤道高空急流有滞后赤道低空急流２ｄ左右的响应关系；（３）赤道低空急流是纬向水汽输送的狭窄通道。     

Formation of Equilibrium Beach Profile of the Abandoned Yellow River Delta Coast in North Jiangsu

The abandoned Yellow River Delta coast is a typical erodible silty and muddy coast in China. The paper analyses the marine dynamic characteristics and the mechanism of beach erosion of this area. Analysis and calculation show that in this sea area wave and tidal current action should be considered. Based on the above analysis, an equilibrium beach profile calculation model is developed, in which the wave-current interaction is considered while sediment supply and sediment re-deposition are neglected. The model consists of four parts: (1) calculation of wave parameters, (2) calculation of velocity due to wave-current interaction at different water depth, (3) calculation of friction velocity and shear stress at different water depths, and (4) calculation of the amount of sediment erosion, erosion intensity and variation of beach profile. Calculated results are in good agreement with observed data. Finally, the evolution tendency is discussed and the equilibrium beach profile of this coast is calculated. B     

山东省虎（Panthera tigris）化石的首次发现及其意义

本文祥详细记述了山东省首次发现的虎化石的特征及出土地点和剖面的基本情况，论证了化石出土地层剖面的时代，应当属于晚更新世，并阐明了该化石发现的意义。     

石榴石橄榄岩的熔融实验及其地质意义

在20×10~9Pa和25×10~9Pa条件下,对石榴石橄榄岩进行的14次高温高压熔融实验研究表明,在1600℃时石榴石橄榄岩开始熔融(初熔),熔体中的SiO_2>70％,Na_2O+K_2O>8％,类似于A型花岗岩成分。本实验为地幔花岗岩的成因提供了证据。     

Calculating Method and Verification of Wave Pressure Distribution on the Breast Wall of Mound Breakwater

In this paper, the calculating charts and formulae about wave pressure on the breast wall are derived with seven parameters on the basis of physical model study. The verification shows that the charts agree with the example, and are adopted in the Specifications of Fishery Harbours Breakwater by the Ministry of Agricultures.     

透空式水平板波浪上托力分布

通过系列模型试验，对波浪上托力沿板宽分布进行了详细分析，提出对于透空式平板结构，发生较大冲击压强或上托力的分布主要分为均布型和局部冲击型两类，由此得到压强分布的计算公式。大量试验资料表明，该公式与实验值有着较好的一致性。     

动荷载作用下海底粉土的孔压响应及其动强度

本文选用近海分布较广的粉土为研究对象 ,利用室内动三轴试验结果 ,找出动荷载作用下粉土的动应力应变关系 ,分析模拟波浪荷载作用下粉土中的孔压响应、临界循环次数 ,确定波浪作用下粉土的应力状态、破坏临界循环次数 ,判断不同深度处的粉土发生液化的可能性及发生液化所需要的时间 ;研究粉土在动荷载作用下的强度降低 ,为海上工程设计和施工提供科学依据。     

低围压水平下砂的排水行为(英文)

采用干样沉降法制备样品 ,选用静三轴仪对松砂和密砂样在 10 k Pa至 10 0 k Pa的低围压下的排水行为进行了实验研究 ,并对实验结果作了橡皮膜校正 ,在围压为 10 k Pa的密砂实验中 ,轴向应力的校正值可达到 12 %。实验研究表明低围压下松砂的剪胀性非常明显 ,且存在剪应力极值 ;围压越低 ,松砂和密砂的剪应力极值越小 ,达到最大剪应力所对应的剪应变越小。同时还表明低围压范围内相对密度不同 ,砂的应力应变特性不同 ;此外 ,低围压下砂的内摩擦角高于高围压下的值 ,从而在工程上应重视低围压水平下砂土工程参数的合理选取