远区台风“三巴”对长江口波浪动力场的作用机制

针对远区台风对河口波浪动力场的影响问题,利用第三代波浪模式SWAN计算了远区台风"三巴"期间长江口波浪动力场分布,分析了陆架至河口区的波浪能量耗散和波致泥沙侵蚀的时空分布,发现波浪由外海向近岸传播过程中,波-波相互作用导致能量由高频向低频转换,周期和波长逐渐增大,近底层轨道流速增大,能量密度增高;阐明白帽破碎是维持深水区波浪能量平衡和限制波高成长的主要机制,底摩擦耗能和水深诱导的破碎耗能是长江口横沙东滩和崇明东滩邻近海域波高衰减的主要原因;提出波浪产生的底部切应力与相对水深有关,当波浪传播到浅水区时,波长和周期越大,波浪切应力越大。研究揭示了与河口相距数百公里的远区台风能够对长江口波浪动力场产生明显影响,河口水下三角洲前缘是最容易受到波浪侵蚀的区域,研究成果弥补了目前关于陆架远区台风对河口波浪动力场影响研究的不足,对深化认识远区台风对长江口动力环境、地貌演变、航运安全和滩涂保护等有重要科学意义。     

Modelling of periodic wave transformation in the inner surf zone

In this paper, we analyse the ability of the nonlinear shallow-water (NSW) equations to predict wave distortion and energy dissipation of periodic broken waves in the inner surf zone. This analysis is based on the weak-solution theory for conservative equations. We derive a new one-way model, which applies to the transformation of non-reflective periodic broken waves on gently sloping beaches. This model can be useful to develop breaking-wave parameterizations (in particular broken-wave celerity expression) in both time-averaged wave models and time-dependent Boussinesq-type models. We also derive a new wave set-up equation which provides a simple and explicit relation between wave set-up and energy dissipation. Finally, we compare numerical simulations of both, the NSW model and the simplified one-way model, with spilling wave breaking experiments and we find a good agreement.     

First results from the North Iceland experiment

Between June 2004 and September 2004 a temporary seismic network was installed on the northern insular shelf of Iceland and onshore in north Iceland. The seismic setup aimed at resolving the subsurface structure and, thus, the geodynamical transition from Icelandic crust to typical oceanic crust along Kolbeinsey Ridge. The experiment recorded about 1,000 earthquakes. The region encloses the Tjörnes Fracture Zone containing the Husavik–Flatey strike-slip fault and the extensional seismic Grimsey Lineament. Most of the seismicity occurs in swarms offshore. Preliminary results reveal typical mid-ocean crust north of Grimsey and a heterogeneous structure with major velocity anomalies along the seismic lineaments and north–south trending subsurface features. Complementary bathymetric mapping highlight numerous extrusion features along the Grimsey Lineament and Kolbeinsey Ridge. The seismic dataset promises to deliver new insights into the tectonic framework for earthquakes in an extensional transform zone along the global mid-ocean ridge system.     

渤海湾沿岸泥炭沼泽形成机制与时空分布

渤海湾沿岸的海陆过渡带，优越的水文地理环境有利于泥炭沼泽的形成与发育。海洋海退导致的海岸线变迁，是控制泥炭沼泽发育时间和空间分布的主导因素。间冰期和冰后期的海面上升期间，自海向陆发育了海侵基底泥炭；中全新世高海面期，在山前扇缘洼地和沟谷有泥炭沼泽发育；晚全新世海面下降期，泥炭沼泽主要发育在沿岸的海湾、泻湖、三角洲汊河间洼地及平原上的河滩、阶地、古河道等地。     

沿海城市海水入侵问题研究

近年来，沿海城市的海水入侵问题逐渐成为人们关心的焦点之一。文章通过资料搜集与整理，对沿海城市的海水入侵状况作了全面描述与分析。系统地总结了海水入侵的若干特点及海水入侵的成因分析与规律，较为详细的分析了海水入侵的基本事实、基本矛盾和各发展阶段的发展原因，在此基础上总结了海水入侵的基本理论。为进一步的研究打下良好的基础。     

中国海岸带高分辨率遥感系统技术基础研究

基于海岸带作为经济高度发展的地带,特别是我国常规海岸带调查已不能满足海岸带经济发展和现代化管理的基本要求,着重从大量高分辨率遥感数据的组织和管理、快速准确的空间定位系统、特征级的影像融合以及海岸带特征提取等算法,共同构成海岸带高分辨率遥感数据处理及分析方法作为系统的技术基础,并通过与此相匹配的海岸带遥感分类系统及其综合制图等方法研究,支撑起海岸带遥感资源调查先进的技术构架,为实现我国海岸带现代化管理奠定理论和技术基础.     

A modelling study of ecosystem dynamics and nutrient cycling in the Humber plume, UK

The European Regional Seas Ecosystem Model (ERSEM) has been coupled with a two-dimensional depth-averaged transport model of the Humber plume region and run to simulate 1988–1989. Simulations of the spatial and temporal variations in chlorophyll-a, nitrate, phosphate and suspended particulate matter distributions in winter, spring and summer show how the development of the spring bloom and subsequent maintenance of primary production is controlled by the physicochemical environment of the plume zone. Results are also shown for two stations, one characterised by the high nutrient and suspended matter concentrations of the plume and the other by the relatively low nutrient and sediment concentrations of the offshore waters. The modelled net primary production at the plume site was 105 g C m⁻² a⁻¹ and 127 g C m⁻² a⁻¹ offshore. Primary production was controlled by light limitation between October and March and by the availability of nutrients during the rest of the year. The phytoplankton nutrient demand is met by in-situ recycling processes during the summer. The likely effect of increasing and decreasing anthropogenic riverine inputs of nitrate and phosphate upon ecosystem function was also investigated. Modelling experiments indicate that increasing the nitrogen to silicate ratio in freshwater inputs increased the production of non-siliceous phytoplankton in the plume. The results of this model have been used to calculate the annual and quarterly mass balances describing the usage of inorganic nitrogen, phosphate and silicate within the plume zone for the period of the NERC North Sea survey (September 1988 to October 1989). The modelled Humber plume retains 3.9% of the freshwater dissolved inorganic nitrogen, 2.2% of the freshwater phosphate and 1.3% of the freshwater silicate input over the simulated seasonal cycle. The remainder is transported into the southern North Sea in either dissolved or particulate form. The reliability of these results is discussed.     

A Nonlinear Model of Surf Beat

A nonlinear short-wave-averaged (surf beat) model is presented. The model is based on that of Roelvink (1993), but the numerical techniques used in the solution are based on the so-called weighted-averaged flux (WAF) method (eg Watson et al., 1992), with time-operator splitting used for the treatment of some of the source terms. This method allows a small number of computational points to be used, and is particularly efficient in modelling breaking long waves. The short-wave (or primary-wave) energy equation is solved using a more traditional Lax-Wendroff technique. Results of validation indicate that the model performs satisfactorily in most respects.     

南沙海域万安盆地地质构造特征

利用在南沙海域万安盆地所采集的地震、重磁资料及钻井、地质资料，对该盆地的地震反向特征，沉积特征、区域地质、构造特征及构造发展史进行了的简要的论述，本文以该区Ｔｇ深度资料为基础，并利用ＣＣＯＰ年刊发表的新生代基底深度资料，初步圈定了万安盆地的边界，并对盆地二级构造单元进行了划分，将盆地划分为５坳３隆、坳隆相间的构造格局。     

福建漳浦前湖湾有孔虫群落及其沉积环境

对福建漳浦前湖湾潮间带两个钻孔岩心和表层沉积物中的有孔虫进行分析研究,有孔虫出现在钻孔最上部厚约2.46-2.96m的砂层中.根据群落优势种生态和非种特征判断,该段各样品有孔虫沉积环境均为近岸浅水环境,尽管其间海面有过3次上下波动变化.根据地层关系判断,其当为现代的产物.