Action of Cnoidal Waves on Vertical Walls

Based on the 2nd order cnoidal wave theory, the characters of shallow water standing waves and their action on vertical walls are studied in this paper. The theoretical expressions of the wave surface elevation in front of and the wave pressure on the vertical wall are obtained. In order to verify the theoretical results, model tests were made in the State Key Laboratory of Coastal and Offshore Engineering at DUT. For the wave surface elevation in front of the wall and the wave forces on the wall at the moment when the wave surface at the wall surface goes down to the bottom of the wave trough, the calculated results coincide quite well with the experimental results. For the wave forces on the wall at the moment when the wave surface at the wall surface goes up to the top of the wave crest, the theoretical expressions are modified by the experimental results. For the convenience of practical use, calculations are made for the wave conditions which usually occur in enginering practice by use of the inves     

耗散结构理论在判断南海热带气旋路径演变中的应用

本文用耗散结构理论推导出南海热带气旋的移动公式,通过实际应用和实例检验,证明它对估计南海热带气旋路径演变有一定的实用价值。     

0421号热带风暴"海马"登陆前后环境场对其移向和强度影响的分析

0421号热带风暴“海马(Haima)”于2004年9月13日12:00在浙江省温州市沿海登陆,登陆后迅速减弱为热带低压,20:00在浙江境内消失.本研究采用物理量诊断分析法,探讨该热带风暴登陆前后涡度场、湿焓场变化对其移向和强度的影响.结果表明,该热带风暴登陆后,涡度(ξ)明显减弱.涡度局地变化(ξ/t)值分布显示,风暴移动方向的后方,涡度减弱的趋势比前方涡度增大的趋势更剧烈;风暴有向其外围(ξ/t)正值中心(即涡度增幅最大)移动的趋势.该热带风暴登陆前、后,湿焓都增大,但登陆后湿焓增大趋势已大大减弱;风暴有向湿焓局地变化(E/t)正值中心移动的趋势,即向能量增强最大的方向移动.     

热带气旋对黄、渤海影响的统计特征分析

本文统计分析了1949—2000年共52年影响黄、渤海的热带气旋时空分布特点及ENS0、西太平洋副热带高压与影响黄、渤海的热带气旋关系。结果表明，西太平洋热带气放以四种主要路径影响黄、渤海，其影响时间、频数及强度均有不同。ENSO和西太平洋副热带高压的强度、位置将影响热带气旋对黄、渤海影响的路径和频数。     

The Nonlinear Wave Force on a Circular Cylinder in Shallow Water

Based on the 1st order cnoidal wave theory, the nonlinear wave diffraction around a circular cylinder in shallow water is studied in this paper. The equation of the wave surface around the cylinder is formulated and by using this formula the wave surface elevation on the cylinder surface can be obtained. In this paper, the formula for calculating the cnoidal wave force on a circular cylinder is also derived. For the wave conditions which are often encountered in practical engineering designs, the ratios of the nonlinear wave forces to the linear wave forces are calculated, and the results are plotted in this paper for design purposes. In order to verify the theoretical results, model tests are conducted. After comparing the test results with the theoretical ones, it is concluded that, in shallow water, for the case of T g / d~(1/2) > 8-10 and H / d > 0.3, the cnoidal wave theory should be used to calculate the wave action on a cylindrical pier.     

A Computational Model for Velocity Separation in Shallow Sea

Based on the hydrodynamical feature and the theoretical velocity profiles of tidal flow and vvind-induced flow in shal-low sea, a computational model is established for the first time, which can separate observed velocity into tidal velocity and wind-induced velocity by use of the least square method. With the model, not only the surface velocities of tidal flow and vvind-induced flow are obtained, but also the bed roughness height is determined and the wind velocity above the wa-ter surface is estimated. For verification of the model, the observed velocity in the Yellow River Estuary and the laborato-ry test is separated, then it is applied to the Yangtze River Estuary. All the results are satisfactory. The research results show that the model is simple in method, feasible in process and reasonable in result. The model is a valid approach to analysis and computation of field dala, and can be applied to separate the observed velocity in shallow sea; at the same time, reasonable boundary conditions of th     

正压浅海湍流运动的雷诺应力封闭模型

根据湍流封闭理论,建立一种适用于正压浅海湍流运动的雷诺应力封闭模型(RSM),以代替目前三维浅海动力学模型中普遍采用的湍粘性系数的传统假设。通过直接建立并模化f—平面上正压海洋的雷诺应力传输方程,分别得到的微分形式和代数形式的RSM方程组。并讨论了进行数值计算所需要的边界条件。利用该模型可以进一步研究浅海潮流、风暴潮流及风海流等浅海流动的三维结构和湍流特性。     

福建漳浦前湖湾有孔虫群落及其沉积环境

对福建漳浦前湖湾潮间带两个钻孔岩心和表层沉积物中的有孔虫进行分析研究,有孔虫出现在钻孔最上部厚约2.46-2.96m的砂层中.根据群落优势种生态和非种特征判断,该段各样品有孔虫沉积环境均为近岸浅水环境,尽管其间海面有过3次上下波动变化.根据地层关系判断,其当为现代的产物.     

考虑底摩擦的波浪折射计算

本文用考虑底摩擦的折射模式计算了浅水中波高和波向分布。作为一个例子,根据不同的摩擦系数和不同的边界条件计算了一种简单海底地形的折射系数、衰减系数和折射角,所得结果与不考虑底摩擦的折射模式结果进行比较,发展它们之间存在一些差异,表明在浅水中底摩擦对波高有一定影响。