福建沿海浪潮耦合漫堤风险评估:以台风天兔为例

漫堤是天文潮、风暴潮与海浪等物理要素作用于海堤后海水翻越海堤的物理过程。本文利用天文潮-风暴潮-台风浪耦合模式(ADCIRC+SWAN)、基于非结构三角形网格和高分辨率地理数据(海堤位置和高程、岸线和水深等)构建福建沿海精细化漫堤风险等级评估系统。该系统在近岸网格分辨率最高达50m,可精确刻画福建沿海复杂地形。利用模拟的水位与海浪参数,采用波浪爬高公式计算得到各海堤堤前波浪爬高。按照总水位与波浪爬高之和与海堤高程的对比,将漫堤风险分为五个等级。对2013年的超强台风天兔过程进行后报检验。结果显示,该系统计算的漫堤情况与灾后调查的漫堤实况基本一致,结果准确,说明本研究中采用的漫堤风险评估标准和方法是可行的。在此基础上,设计了4种不同的台风强度等级,对福建沿海206条海堤进行了漫堤风险等级评估,探究台风强度对漫堤风险的影响。结果表明:波浪爬高对漫堤风险的影响高于单纯的风暴潮增水;风暴潮增水随台风强度的增强增量较小,对于漫堤的风险影响较小;福建沿海波浪爬高普遍较高,随着台风强度的增强,波浪爬高会显著增加漫堤的风险等级,且应重视台风浪对海堤造成的冲击所导致的溃堤灾害。本研究可为沿海防灾减灾提供科学依据。     

Significance of nearshore wave parameters in identifying vulnerable zones during storm and normal conditions along Visakhapatnam coast,India

The nearshore parameters, viz., wave runup, wave setup, and wave energy have been estimated during storm and normal conditions of SW monsoon (June–September) and NE monsoon (November–February) by empirical parameterization along Visakhapatnam coast. These results were compared with the field observations during three storms of SW monsoon season in the year 2007. The higher nearshore wave energies were observed at R.K. Beach, Jodugullapalem beach, and Sagarnagar beach during both the seasons. During storm events, the higher wave energies associated with higher wave runups cause severe erosion along the wave convergence zones. The storm wave runups (SWRUs) were higher at R.K. Beach, Palm beach, Jodugullapalem beach, and Sagarnagar Beach. The yearly low wave energy was observed at Lawson’s Bay with lowest wave runup, considered as safest zone. R.K. Beach, Palm beach, and Jodugullapalem beach are identified as vulnerable zones of wave attack. It is noteworthy that in addition to wave energies, wave runups and wave setups also play a vital role in endangering the coast.     

A numerical study of swash flows generated by bores

The dynamic processes of bore propagation over a uniform slope are studied numerically using a 2-D Reynolds Averaged Navier–Stokes (RANS) solver, coupled to a non-linear k − ε turbulence closure and a volume of fluid (VOF) method. The dam-break mechanism is used to generate bores in a constant depth region. Present numerical results for the ensemble-averaged flow field are compared with existing experimental data as well as theoretical and numerical results based on non-linear shallow water (NSW) equations. Reasonable agreement between the present numerical solutions and experimental data is observed. Using the numerical results, small-scale bore behaviors and flow features, such as the bore collapse process near the still-water shoreline, the ‘mini-collapse’ during the runup phase and the ‘back-wash bore’ in the down-rush phase, are described. In the case of a strong bore, the evolution of the averaged turbulence kinetic energy (TKE) over the swash zone consists of two phases: in the region near the still-water shoreline, the production and the dissipation of TKE are roughly in balance; in the region farther landwards of the still-water shoreline, the TKE decay rate is very close to that of homogeneous grid turbulence. On the other hand, in the case of a weak bore, the bore collapse generated turbulence is confined near the bottom boundary layer and the TKE decays at a much slower rate.     

Tsunami bore runup

Nearshore behaviors of tsunamis, specifically those formed as a single uniform bore, are investigated experimentally in a laboratory environment. The transition process from tsunami bore to runup is described by the momentum exchange process between the bore and the small wedge-shaped water body along the shore: the bore front itself does not reach the shoreline directly, but the large bore mass pushes the small, initially quiescent water in front of it. The fluid motions near the runup water line appear to be complex. The complex flow pattern must be caused by irregularities involved in the driving bore and turbulence advected into the runup flow. Those experimental results suggest that the tsunami actions at the shoreline involve significant mean kinetic energy together with violent turbulence. Even though the behaviors of bore motion were found to be different from those predicted by the shallow-water wave theory, the maximum runup height appears to be predictable by the theory if the value of the initial runup velocity is modified (reduced). Besides the friction effect, this reduction of the initial runup velocity must be related to the transition process as well as the highly interacting three-dimensional runup motion.     

Modeling of storm-induced coastal flooding for emergency management

This paper describes a model package that simulates coastal flooding resulting from storm surge and waves generated by tropical cyclones. The package consists of four component models implemented at three levels of nested geographic regions, namely, ocean, coastal, and nearshore. The operation is automated through a preprocessor that prepares the computational grids and input atmospheric conditions and manages the data transfer between components. The third generation spectral wave model WAM and a nonlinear long-wave model calculate respectively the wave conditions and storm surge over the ocean region. The simulation results define the water levels and boundary conditions for the model SWAN to transform the storm waves in coastal regions. The storm surge and local tides define the water level in each nearshore region, where a Boussinesq model uses the wave spectra output from SWAN to simulate the surf-zone processes and runup along the coastline. The package is applied to hindcast the coastal flooding caused by Hurricanes Iwa and Iniki, which hit the Hawaiian Island of Kauai in 1982 and 1992, respectively. The model results indicate good agreement with the storm-water levels and overwash debris lines recorded during and after the events, demonstrating the capability of the model package as a forecast tool for emergency management.     

The landslides and tsunamis of the 30th of December 2002 in Stromboli analysed through numerical simulations

On the 30th of December 2002 two tsunamis were generated only 7 min apart in Stromboli, southern Tyrrhenian Sea, Italy. They represented the peak of a volcanic crisis that started 2 days before with a large emission of lava flows from a lateral vent that opened some hundreds of meters below the summit craters. Both tsunamis were produced by landslides that detached from the Sciara del Fuoco. This is a morphological scar and is the result of the last collapse of the northwestern flank of the volcanic edifice, that occurred less than 5 ka b.p. The first tsunami was due to a submarine mass movement that started very close to the coastline and that involved about 20×10⁶ m³ of material. The second tsunami was engendered by a subaerial landslide that detached at about 500 m above sea level and that involved a volume estimated at 4–9×10⁶ m³. The latter landslide can be seen as the retrogressive continuation of the first failure. The tsunamis were not perceived as distinct events by most people. They attacked all the coasts of Stromboli within a few minutes and arrived at the neighbouring island of Panarea, 20 km SSW of Stromboli, in less than 5 min. The tsunamis caused severe damage at Stromboli.In this work, the two tsunamis are studied by means of numerical simulations that use two distinct models, one for the landslides and one for the water waves. The motion of the sliding bodies is computed by means of a Lagrangian approach that partitions the mass into a set of blocks: we use both one-dimensional and two-dimensional schemes. The landslide model calculates the instantaneous rate of the vertical displacement of the sea surface caused by the motion of the underwater slide. This is included in the governing equations of the tsunami, which are solved by means of a finite-element (FE) technique. The tsunami is computed on two different grids formed by triangular elements, one covering the near-field around Stromboli and the other also including the island of Panarea.The simulations show that the main tsunamigenic potential of the slides is restricted to the first tens of seconds of their motion when they interact with the shallow-water coastal area, and that it diminishes drastically in deep water. The simulations explain how the tsunamis that are generated in the Sciara del Fuoco area, are able to attack the entire coastline of Stromboli with larger effects on the northern coast than on the southern. Strong refraction and bending of the tsunami fronts is due to the large near-shore bathymetric gradient, which is also responsible for the trapping of the waves and for the persistence of the oscillations. Further, the first tsunami produces large waves and runup heights comparable with the observations. The simulated second tsunami is only slightly smaller, though it was induced by a mass that is approximately one third of the first. The arrival of the first tsunami is negative, in accordance with most eyewitness reports. Conversely, the leading wave of the second tsunami is positive.     

Hydrokinematic regions within the swash zone

A method for delimiting the swash zone and regions within is presented. Two regions are recognized and distinguished by their differing flow kinematics. The outer swash region involves wave-swash interactions and related processes, whereas the inner swash region consists of pure swash motion (i.e., free from interaction with subsequent waves). The boundary between these two hydrokinematic regions can be determined from shoreline elevation time series. The vertical extent of the outer swash was found to scale directly with inner surf zone wave variance and beach slope. Since the vertical extent of the entire swash zone also varies directly with the former, the relative extents of the outer and inner swash are approximately constant for the range of beach slopes investigated here. The efficacy of a previously utilized method for determining the location of instruments in the swash zone, based on the percentage of time the bed is inundated, is established here for the first time. A new method for determining the location of an instrument station within either of the hydrokinematic regions is also presented, and requires only a single pressure sensor time series. The data discussed here include over 140 runup time series collected from five different sandy beaches with beach face gradients ranging from 0.03 to 0.12. The results are expected to be generally applicable to swell-dominated sandy beaches, where swash is driven by a combination of short and long waves in the inner surf zone. The applicability of the results at either extreme of the reflective–dissipative continuum remains to be established.     

A Numerical Investigation of the Reduction of Solitary Wave Runup by A Row of Vertical Slotted Piles

To improve the current understanding of the reduction of tsunami-like solitary wave runup by the pile breakwater on a sloping beach, we developed a 3D numerical wave tank based on the CFD tool OpenFOAM in this study. The Navier Stokes equations were applied to solve the two-phase incompressible flow, combined with an LES model to solve the turbulence and a VOF method to capture the free surface. The adopted model was firstly validated with existing empirical formulas for solitary wave runup on the slope without the pile structure. It is then validated using our new laboratory observations of the free surface elevation, the velocity and the pressure around a row of vertical slotted piles subjected to solitary waves, as well as the wave runup on the slope behind the piles. Subsequently, a set of numerical simulations were implemented to analyze the wave reflection, the wave transmission, and the shoreline runup with various offshore wave heights, offshore water depths, adjacent pile spaces and beach slopes. Finally, an improved empirical equation accounting for the maximum wave runup on the slope was proposed by taking the presence of the pile breakwater into consideration.     

Measurement of wave-by-wave bed-levels in the swash zone

A technique is described to observe and quantify wave-by-wave bed-level changes in the swash zone. The ultrasonic instrument system is non-contact with the beach face surface being measured and the sensors remain outside of the fluid flows causing sediment movement. Sensor resolution combined with the electronic noise inherent within a digital network data-logging system results in a (conservative) measurement accuracy of ± 1 mm, equating to a couple of sand grain diameters in height. Illustrative field results demonstrate the practical use of the instrumentation, and a simple data pre-processing method to separate swashes and intervening bed-level ‘events’ is discussed. These example data reveal rather complex fluctuations of the bed observed over time periods of minutes to hours. Rather strikingly, gross bed-level changes per wave are revealed to be up to many orders of magnitude larger than the observed net rate of beach face evolution. It is outlined how observations of successive bed-level changes at multiple locations within a dense grid, combined with a consideration of sediment continuity, will now enable the total net sediment transported per uprush–backwash to be quantified.