黄茅海内治导线对潮汐要素影响的试验研究

通过物理模型试验 ,研究了黄茅海内不同治导线对潮汐要素的影响 ,得出治导线对河口湾内的潮位变化随着上游径流量的增加而逐渐减弱的结论。中水大潮时 ,湾顶与湾腰处高潮位降低 ,低潮位抬高 ,其幅度与治导线进占的海域面积成正比。洪水大潮时 ,高潮位一般也降低。低潮位则有时降低 ,有时有所抬高。河口湾治导线实施后 ,涨潮最大流速、平均流速和落潮平均流速均有所减小 ,但落潮最大流速不减反增。涨、落潮潮量有不同程度的减少 ,其减幅与治导线的进占规模成正比。各站的高、低潮位发生时间都有前移趋势 ,治导线越往外推 ,潮时前移量就越大。本文对这些现象的成因进行了分析 ,并就潮位、潮流速及潮流量的变化对防洪水位和交通航运水深的影响作了阐述。     

海洋动床物理模型试验布置模型沙的相似条件

动床模型试验布置模型沙是模拟泥沙运动试验中的关键。模型布置模型沙之前,依据相似理论,按照一定的几何比尺选择适当的模型沙,这对于确保试验的可靠性、稳定性和提高试验精度尤为重要。本文以一港口物理模型试验为实例说明模型沙选择和布置模型沙对模拟泥沙运动的重要性。     

Spatial characterisation of the Benguela ecosystem for ecosystem-based management

The three countries of the Benguela Current Large Marine Ecosystem (BCLME), namely Angola, Namibia and South Africa, have committed to implementing ecosystem-based management (EBM) including an ecosystem approach to fisheries (EAF) in the region, to put in practice the principles of sustainable development in ocean-related matters. There is also recognition of the need for marine spatial planning (MSP) as a process for informing EBM with regard to the allocation and siting of ocean uses so that ecosystem health is ensured and trade-offs between ecosystem services are appropriately dealt with. Marine spatial planning is both an integrated and an area-based process, and this paper produces a spatial characterisation of the BCLME for achieving a common basis for MSP in the region, focusing on the oceanography, biology and fisheries. Recognising spatial variation in physical driving forces, primary and secondary production, trophic structures and species richness, four different subsystems are characterised: (1) north of the Angola–Benguela Front, (2) from the Angola–Benguela Front to Lüderitz, (3) from Lüderitz to Cape Agulhas, and (4) from Cape Agulhas to Port Alfred on the south-east coast of South Africa. Research and monitoring requirements of relevance for MSP and EBM in the region are identified, focusing on understanding variability and change, including with regard to the boundary areas identified for the system. To this end, 14 cross-shelf monitoring transects are proposed (including seven that are already being monitored) to estimate fluxes of biota, energy and materials within and between the subsystems. The usefulness of models for understanding ecosystem variability and changes is recognised and the need for fine-scale resolution of both sampling and modelling for adequate MSP as input to EBM for the often-conflicting interests of conserving biodiversity, and managing fisheries, recreation, offshore oil and gas exploration and exploitation, offshore mining and shipping routes, is emphasised.     

An ecological classification of rocky shores at a regional scale: a predictive tool for management of conservation values

The ecological classification of coastal waters has become an important issue in ecosystem water quality assessment. Previous studies have suggested that abiotic variables seem to be a suitable alternative to biological data for classifying coastal areas at different scales. The study presented here proposes a downscaling methodology for the classification of coastal waters at a regional scale within the NE Atlantic based on standardized data and objective decision rules. Physical variables (temperature, wave exposure, tidal range and radiation) were selected because of their ecological role, availability and statistical decision rules. This information was based on satellite data and mathematical modelling of natural coastal processes. The N and NW Spanish coastline was subdivided into 41 20‐km segments that were classified according to physical variables using the self‐organizing map and k‐means algorithms. To validate the classification with biological data, 21 sites representing the entire range of physical typologies in the study area were simultaneously and consistently sampled. Intertidal macroalgae were identified in each of 10 quadrats of 50 × 50 cm for two to three transects per site, according to a stratified sampling procedure. The coverage of macroalgae was obtained by photographic analysis. The physical classification shows four typologies: Lower Rias, Upper Rias, West Cantabric and East Cantabric. Statistical analyses confirmed the ecological significance of these typologies at the tidal levels where seaweeds were the major structural element (lower and middle intertidal). According to the biological data, the greatest differences were found between the Upper Rias and the rest of the N and NW Iberian Peninsula coast. Thus, the classification methodology has potential application as a management tool.     

Macrobenthic surf zone communities of temperate sandy beaches: spatial and temporal patterns

The spatial and temporal patterns within the surf zone epibenthic assemblages were studied in a coastal fringe of Argentina to determine whether assemblage compositions, abundance, species richness and diversity vary spatially and temporarily. Sampling was conducted seasonally in two sandy beaches over 2 years with a benthic sledge used to collect the fauna in the upper centimeters of soft bottom sediments and the epifauna on the sediment surface. Physical variables were measured in the same coastal sites where biological sampling was conducted. A total of 58 morphospecies were collected. Peracarid crustaceans were the most abundant group. The mysid Pseudobranchiomysis arenae (new genus–new species) (29.73 ± 17.79 ind. per sample) and the isopod Leptoserolis bonaerensis (51.54 ± 22.35 ind. per sample) were the most abundant and common species and were present regularly throughout the sampling period. Differences in the surf zone community composition were found between the beaches; these differences could be related to variation in physical parameters such as sand grain size and wave climate, indicating the possible influence of the morphodynamic state of the beaches on the epibenthic assemblages. A seasonal abundance trend was detected, reflecting the changes in abundance of the two dominant species; the richness pattern was not easily detectable due to the sporadic appearance of non‐resident species in the surf zone, probably due to different causes, including dispersion by entry of water from surrounding areas, littoral currents and storms. The surf zone studied presents a complex and dynamic epibenthic community that appears to be influenced by the morphodynamic state of the beach and the dynamic of non‐resident species.     

不规则区域海浪嵌套模式设计及其应用实例

本研究针对第三代MASNUM海浪模式的并行设计特点,设计实现了并行化不规则嵌套计算,从而提高了海浪模式嵌套模拟的灵活性和时效性.选取浙江舟山、宁波附近海域,利用201 1年的NCEP再分析风场作为强迫,采用大、中、小网格并利用该嵌套模式进行了三重嵌套应用.其中大、中区域实验均采用规则矩形方式设置开边界,大区域的模拟结果为中区域嵌套实验提供开边界条件,同时中区域嵌套输出小区域嵌套实验在不规则开边界上的边界条件.中区域的实验结果与卫星观测资料的对比表明:嵌套实验比无嵌套实验的误差小30％左右,二者在开边界附近的有效波高差异较大,达到0.5m以上.8月份中区域的无嵌套实验所得有效波高平均为0.7m,最大值为3.6m,嵌套实验结果则分别为1.0、7.1m,后者更接近以往观测资料所显示的平均波高1.5～2.0 m和最大波高5.0 ～10.0 m的结果,表明该常规嵌套方式的可行性.小区域实验也包含嵌套和无嵌套2个实验,开边界均采用不规则形状.实验结果表明:在5～8月期间,嵌套实验的波向与无嵌套的波向差异较明显,主要表现为外海传入;在6～7月份,嵌套实验与无嵌套实验有效波高的差值达1.0m以上;嵌套实验的周期普遍大于无嵌套的模拟结果,其最大差异为8 s.上述实验结果表明,该嵌套模式可实现规则开边界区域和不规则区域的嵌套模拟,可应用于复杂近岸区域的海浪数值模拟和预报,有效提高对关注区域海浪的模拟能力.     

小角度斜向浪对接岸斜坡堤稳定影响的试验研究

小角度斜向浪在沿直立堤传播过程中形成壅水,当壅水到达接岸斜坡堤时对护面块体的稳定造成较大威胁.本文在波浪物理模型试验的基础上,分析了小角度斜向浪对直立堤根部接岸斜坡堤的作用状态,确定了冲击波流的冲击点位置,对同类工程设计具有一定的指导作用.     

Physical Properties of Sediments on the Northern Continental Shelf of the South China Sea

ABSTRACT

Using physical (acoustical engineering mechanics and scanning electron microscope) and other technical methods, is study makes a comprehensive analysis of the structural characteristics and engineering mechanics properties of sediments, the sediment structure, microstructure and their classification characteristics and in the light of the physical-mechanical characteristic parameters, the relations between the grain contact, grain accumulation, and porosity with the physical-mechanical characteristics of sediment, and reports the relationship between the acoustic physical parameters and the stress-strain properties of sediment. Results show that there are six structural types in the shelf seabed sediment of the northern South China Sea, among which, the mixed contact structural type sediment has a higher compressive strength and a higher sound velocity than others, and that in the shallow seabed there exists a mesoscale structure with high and low velocity layers.     

潮汐河口支流建闸闸下淤积研究

潮汐河口建闸的关键问题是闸下淤积。在潮汐河口支流口门上建闸,其闸下淤积面貌主要取决于干流主槽的位置,这与在潮汐河口干流上建闸的闸下淤积问题有着本质上的差异。以钱塘江河口支流曹娥江口门建闸为例,应用河床演变分析、动床实体模型和现场冲淤试验预测了曹娥江大闸闸下淤积面貌和淤积速率,为曹娥江大闸的建设提供了科学依据。     

Comparison between characteristics of mild slope equations and Boussinesq equations

Boussinesq-type equations and mild-slope equations are compared in terms of their basic forms and characteristics. It is concluded that linear mild-slope equations on dispersion relation are better than non-linear Boussinesq equations. In addition, Berkhoffexperiments are computed and compared by the two models, and agreement between model results and available experimental data is found to be quite reasonable, which demonstrates the two models＇ capacity to simulate wave transformation. However they can deal with different physical processes respectively, and they have their own characteristics.