南海北部陆坡30 ka以来的沉积环境演变

南海是西太地区最大的边缘海,汇集了周边陆地大量碎屑物质。这些陆源碎屑通过复杂的洋流系统经陆坡大量的输送到南海深海海盆中,使陆坡成为研究深海沉积物源汇体系不可缺少的重要环节。但陆坡区域水深变化大,洋流体系复杂,加之冰期间冰期海平面升降和季风的变化,使陆坡沉积环境一直成为研究的难点。为了研究陆坡沉积环境的演变过程,本文选用了南海北部陆坡中部和底部的两个重力柱开展元素地球化学方面的研究,探讨陆坡区域近三万年以来的沉积环境特征。研究发现海平面和季风是影响区域沉积环境的两个重要因素：（1）海平面变化是控制陆坡陆源物质/深海钙质碎屑变化的主要因素;（2）研究区域地层发育有“碳酸盐稀释事件”与东亚夏季风在全新世初期（11.5～8.5 kaBP）增强有关。     

东海丽西洼陷缓坡带中—下古新统成岩演化

丽西洼陷的储层品质是长期以来制约勘探的关键要素之一。为了分析丽西洼陷缓坡带新的勘探层系−中—下古新统的有效储层发育问题,综合利用岩石薄片鉴定、扫描电镜（SEM）分析、X衍射分析、镜质体反射率测定、流体包裹体分析等技术,研究了丽西洼陷缓坡带中—下古新统的储层成岩演化特征。研究表明,丽西洼陷缓坡带中—下古新统成岩演化具有南北差异性,总体上现今南部演化程度高于北部。在斜坡的主体部位（斜坡中带）,南部中—下古新统可进入中成岩B期,而北部中—下古新统总体处于中成岩A期。通过实验现象及结果分析,本研究认为影响原生粒间孔隙保存的2大关键要素为刚性颗粒含量和浅埋藏时碳酸盐沉淀;影响次生溶蚀孔形成的2大关键要素为地表酸性水、幔源二氧化碳和烃源岩演化排出的酸等形成的3类酸性环境,以及岩石早—中期碳酸盐含量和长石含量。     

波浪作用下斜坡上单桩周围海床孔隙水压力响应特性试验研究

单桩基础周围斜坡海床中的波致孔隙水压力响应与纯斜坡海床存在较大差异。为了解不同波高、波周期条件下,单桩基础周围波浪传播变形及其对斜坡海床孔压振荡响应的影响,在波浪水槽末端铺设了长6 m、坡度1∶16的斜坡砂床进行试验。通过改变桩身位置和波浪参数,测量斜坡段各处波面形态,采集单桩周围孔隙水压力,分析了桩身位置及波浪参数对斜坡海床孔压响应的影响。结果表明：相同入射波条件下,随距坡脚水平距离增加,波高、近底流速和桩周孔隙水压力幅值都随之增大;桩周孔隙水压力幅值分布规律为：桩前孔压幅值明显大于桩侧与桩后孔压幅值。当Keulegan-Carpenter数大于6时,随着波高和波周期增大,马蹄涡产生的负压区使得桩侧海床孔隙水压力与纯斜坡海床孔隙水压力差值迅速增加。     

浙江宁波穿山水道的海底稳定性评价

在测深、钻探、室内测试、水文泥沙测验等勘测资料基础上,详细分析宁波穿山水道海域水文气象、工程地质、地震活动性、浅层气、滑坡、沙土液化、岸坡和冲刷槽冲淤动态等因素,这些分析结果表明穿山水道海底稳定,海岸和海洋工程环境适宜.     

陆坡非旋转重力羽状流的数值模拟

借助MITgcm模式使用二维非静力近似在水平方向采用不等间距网格,模拟了陆坡非旋转重力羽状流的流动。模拟显示陆坡上的重力羽状流的运动比较复杂。通过数值实验,发现改变地形或调整冷源强度都会影响沿陆坡下沉的低温高密度水的羽状流形态,潮汐亦会对重力羽状流有一定的影响。经计算发现在陆坡处,Richardson数小于1/4,宜发生Kelvin-Helmholtz不稳定性,并由卷挟导致环境流体与高密度流体混合,沿着斜坡加速下滑。     

Channelled erosion through a marine dump site of dredge spoils at the mouth of the Puyallup River, Washington State, USA

Channels are relatively common on river-mouth deltas, but the process by which they arise from river sediment discharge is unclear because they can potentially be explained either by negatively buoyant (hyperpycnal) flows produced directly from the river outflow or by flows generated by repeated failure and mobilisation of sediment rapidly deposited at the delta front. Channels eroded through a dump site of dredge spoils are described here from multibeam and older sonar data collected in Commencement Bay, at the mouth of the Puyallup River. Shallow channels on the seaward upper surface of the dump site, away from any flows that could have been produced by delta front failures, suggest that at least some hyperpycnal flows were produced directly from the positively buoyant river outflow up to 200 m from the edge of the river mouth platform. The form of channel bed erosion is revealed by the longitudinal shape of the main eroded channel compared with the adjacent dump site profile. It suggests that the channel evolved by its steep front retreating, rather than by simple vertical entrenchment or diffusive-like evolution of the profile, a geometry interpreted as evidence that repeated failure of the bed occurred in response to shear stress imposed by bottom-travelling flows. Model calculations based on shear strengths back-calculated from the geometry of channel wall failures suggest that, if the main channel were eroded solely by hyperpycnal flows, their generation was remarkably efficient in order to create flows vigorous enough to cause channel bed failure. Besides the sediment concentration and discharge characteristics that have been considered to dictate the ability of rivers to produce hyperpycnal flows, it is suggested that the timing of floods with respect to the tidal cycle should also be important because extreme low tides may be needed to ensure that coarse sediment is transferred vigorously to the edge of river mouth platforms.     

Examination of empirical formulas for wave shoaling and breaking on steep slopes

Estimation of the wave height transformation of shoaling and breaking is essential for the nearshore hydrodynamics and the design of coastal structures. Many empirical formulas have been well recognized to the wave height transformation, but most of them were only applicable for gentle slopes. This paper reports the experimental results of wave shoaling and breaking over the steep slopes to examine the applicability of the previous empirical formulas. Two steep bottom slopes of 1/3 and 1/5, and one gentle slope of 1/10 were conducted in the present experiments. Experimental results show that the shoaling distance of steep slopes become short and the surface waves may be partially reflected from the steep bottom, thus the estimation of wave shoaling using the well-known previous formula did not conform completely to the experimental results. The previous empirical formulas for the wave breaking criteria were also examined, and the modified equations to the steep beaches were proposed in this work. A numerical model was finally adopted to calculate the wave height transformation in the surf zone by introducing the modified breaking index.     

斜坡平台波浪破碎数值模拟

波浪在斜坡地形上破碎,破波后稳定波高多采用物理模型试验方法进行研究,利用近岸波浪传播变形的抛物型缓坡方程和波能流平衡方程,导出了适用于斜坡上波浪破碎的数值模拟方法。首先根据波能流平衡方程和缓坡方程基本型式分析波浪在破波带内的波能变化和衰减率,推导了波浪传播模型中波能衰减因子和破波能量流衰减因子之间的关系;其次,利用陡坡地形上的高阶抛物型缓坡方程建立了波浪传播和波浪破碎数学模型;最后,根据物理模型试验实测数据对数值模拟的效果进行验证。数值计算与试验资料比较表明,该模型可以较好地模拟斜坡地形的波浪传播波高变化。     

Parabolic Wave Propagation Modelling in Orthogonal Coordinate Systems

This paper presents a numerical model study of the propagation of water waves using the parabolic approximation of the mild-slope equation in the orthogonal coordinate system. Two types of coordinate systems are studied: (a) a general form of orthogonal coordinate system and (b) the conformal system, a special form of orthogonal coordinate system. Two typical examples, namely, expanded breakwaters and a circular channel, are studied to validate the model. First, the examples are studied by use of the general orthogonal coordinates. Then the same examples are computed by use of the confonnal system. The computational results show that the confonnal coordinate system generally gives better predictions than the general orthogonal system. A numerical technique for generating the conformal grid is combined with the numerical model to improve the practicability of the model. The comparison between the result from the numerical grid system and that from the analytical grid system shows that reliable computational results can be obtained by use of the numerical confonnal grid system.     

Summer Monsoon and Annual Variability of Sea Surface Slope and Their Effects on Alongshore Current near Qingdao

Based on the monthly mean sea level data obtained from 3 years‘ (1999--2001) tide-gauge measurements, the annual variability of the sea level near Qingdao and Jiaozhou Bay is studied and discussed in this paper. Results show that the sea surface height at all the tide gauges becomes higher in summer than that in winter,with an obvious seasonal variability. Furthermore the sea surface height measured at a short distance outside the bay is lower than that in the bay, showing a sea surface slope downward from north to south. The reasons for the formation of the slope are explained as well. The dynamic action of the summer monsoon and the sea surface slope, and their effects on the monthly mean current are studied by means of dynamics principles. The importance of the summer monsoon and the pressure gradient generated by the sea surface slope, with their effects on the alongshore current, is pointed out and emphasized in this paper.