Morphodynamics of intertidal bars on a megatidal beach, Merlimont, Northern France

The morphology, bedforms and hydrodynamics of Merlimont beach, in northern France, characterised by intertidal bars and a spring tidal range of 8.3 m, were surveyed over a 10-day experiment with variable wave conditions that included a 2-day storm with significant wave heights of up to 2.8 m. The beach exhibited two pronounced bar-trough systems located between the mean sea level and low neap tide level. Waves showed a cross-shore depth modulation, attaining maximum heights at high tide. The mean current was characterised dominantly by strong tide-induced longshore flows significantly reinforced by wind forcing during the storm, and by weaker, dominantly offshore, wave-induced flows. Vertical tidal water-level variations (tidal excursion rates) showed a bimodal distribution with a peak towards the mid-tide position and low rates near low and high water. The two bar-trough systems in the mid-tide zone remained stable in position during the experiment but showed significant local change. The absence of bar migration in spite of the relatively energetic context of this beach reflects high macro-scale bar morphological lag due to a combination of the large vertical tidal excursion rates in the mid-tide zone, the cross-shore wave structure, and the pronounced dual bar-trough system. The profile exhibited a highly variable pattern of local morphological change that showed poor correlation with wave energy levels and tidal excursion rates. Profile change reflected marked local morphodynamic feedback effects due mainly to breaks in slope associated with the bar-trough topography and with trough activity. Change was as important during low wave-energy conditions as during the storm. Strong flows in the entrenched troughs hindered cross-shore bar mobility while inducing longshore migration of medium-sized bedforms that contributed in generating short-term profile change. The large size and location of the two pronounced bars in the mid-tide zone of the beach are tentatively attributed respectively to the relatively high wave-energy levels affecting Merlimont beach, and to the cross-shore increase in wave height hinged on tidal modulation of water depths. These two large quasi-permanent bars probably originated as essentially breakpoint bars and are different from a small bar formed by swash and surf processes in the course of the experiment at the mean high water neap tide level, which is characterised by a certain degree of tidal stationarity and larger high-tide waves.     

2000年夏季莱州湾生态环境要素的分布特征

论文依据 2 0 0 0年夏季 8月 2 9日至 9月 2日莱州湾的 1次综合性生态环境调查资料 ,给出了表、中、底 3层的平均温度、盐度、主要营养盐浓度及其比例和叶绿素 a浓度 ,分析了莱州湾的温盐结构、主要营养盐和叶绿素 a的分布特征。由于莱州湾的水深较浅 ,各要素的垂直分布都比较均匀。生态环境要素的水平分布表现为小清河口为高温、低盐、高营养盐和高叶绿素 a浓度区 ,小清河口东测的湾顶区域为高温、高盐、相对低的营养盐和叶绿素 a浓度区。此次观测到的盐度较 1997年以前有明显升高。莱州湾各层平均的 N/ P和 Si/ N分别为 16.73和 1.67,都比 1998～ 1999年渤海中部的值大 ,但 N/ P比 1992 ,1995和 1996年莱州湾的 N/ P明显偏低。叶绿素 a浓度与硅酸盐浓度之间有较好的相关关系 (α=0 .0 1) ,表、中、底 3层叶绿素 a浓度同硅酸盐浓度的线性相关系数分别为 :0 .5 4 ,0 .68和 0 .67     

台湾海峡毛颚动物分布的初步研究

本文分析了台湾海峡毛颚动物的种类组成、数量分布特征，并就其与环境因素的关系进行了初步探讨．结果显示与台湾海峡西部、东海等邻近海域相比，本区毛颚动物具种数少，数量小，季节变化幅度较小等特点．它的数量分布状况与闽斯沿岸流、南海西南季风漂流以及黑潮支流在本区运动消长有关。     

埕岛油田海上石油平台基础冲刷研究

海洋石油平台的建立会改变平台周围的水动力条件，其中平台的基础及与之连接的海底管缆(输油管道、注水管道、海底电缆等)附近产生冲刷现象，对平台和海底管缆的安全造成威胁。根据对研究区典型平台的4次实洲水深并结合以往资料，分析了埕岛油田海上石油平台基础冲刷的过程及其规律。     

胶州湾东岸滩涂环境的遥感监测

利用低潮位陆地卫星TM影像对胶州湾东岸碱厂白水分布与扩散进行监测。对研究区的子区影像在ENVI中进行增强、变换处理，提取白水、白泥分布与扩散信息，制作大比例尺影像地图，在GIS软件中计算其面积。结合实地验证和历史数据，分析表明，该污染源10多年来面积扩大了4倍，     

近岸海浪模式在中国东海台风浪模拟中的应用--数值模拟及物理过程研究

较为详细地介绍了基于能量平衡方程的第三代近岸海浪数值模式SWAN（Simulation Waves Nearshore）及其包含的物理过程（风生浪、底摩擦、白浪耗散、深度诱导波破碎、非线性波－波相作用等），并利用该模式对影响杭州湾－长江口沿岸海域的一次台风浪过程进行了模拟研究：模式所需风场由藤田台风风场模型嵌入对应台风特征等压线，并对相应时段的NCAR／NCEPT资料、单站资料进行同化后提供；利用自嵌套的方式提供波谱边界条件；模式模拟的结果与实际海浪观测资料相符较好，在此基础上，研究了底摩擦、深度诱导波破碎、三波相互作用等物理过程联合对近岸台风浪的影响，初步认识了它们在近岸台风浪生成、传播过程中的重要作用。     

基于GIS数据仓库的激光单分子海洋油气化探数据可视化处理

采用基于地理信息系统(GIS)的数据仓库技术,以激光单分子海洋油气化探数据处理与评价作为数据仓库主题,实现了激光单分子海洋油气化探数据的可视化处理。将可视化处理分为4个步骤:数据预处理、异常背景分析、异常分析、异常综合评价;使用MAPX、DELPHI等软件研制开发了相应的可视化软件模块。通过对渤海湾盆地某测区实测的甲苯化探数据的处理,验证了所开发技术的实用性。     

Risk assessment of TBT in the Japanese short-neck clam (Ruditapes philippinarum) of Tokyo Bay using a chemical fate model

A risk assessment of Tributyltin (TBT) in Tokyo Bay was conducted using the Margin of Exposure (MOE) method at the species level using the Japanese short-neck clam, Ruditapes philippinarum. The assessment endpoint was defined to protect R. philippinarum in Tokyo Bay from TBT (growth effects). A No Observed Effect Concentration (NOEC) for this species with respect to growth reduction induced by TBT was estimated from experimental results published in the scientific literature. Sources of TBT in this study were assumed to be commercial vessels in harbors and navigation routes. Concentrations of TBT in Tokyo Bay were estimated using a three-dimensional hydrodynamic model, an ecosystem model and a chemical fate model. MOEs for this species were estimated for the years 1990, 2000, and 2007. Estimated MOEs for R. philippinarum for 1990, 2000, and 2007 were approximately 1–3, 10, and 100, respectively, indicating a declining temporal trend in the probability of adverse growth effects.A simplified software package called RAMTB was developed by incorporating the chemical fate model and the databases of seasonal flow fields and distributions of organic substances (phytoplankton and detritus) in Tokyo Bay, simulated by the hydrodynamic and ecological model, respectively.     

Tidally incised valleys on tropical carbonate shelves: An example from the northern Great Barrier Reef, Australia

The formation of incised valleys on continental shelves is generally attributed to fluvial erosion under low sea level conditions. However, there are exceptions. A multibeam sonar survey at the northern end of Australia's Great Barrier Reef, adjacent to the southern edge of the Gulf of Papua, mapped a shelf valley system up to 220 m deep that extends for more than 90 km across the continental shelf. This is the deepest shelf valley yet found in the Great Barrier Reef and is well below the maximum depth of fluvial incision that could have occurred under a − 120 m, eustatic sea level low-stand, as what occurred on this margin during the last ice age. These valleys appear to have formed by a combination of reef growth and tidal current scour, probably in relation to a sea level at around 30–50 m below its present position.

Tidally incised depressions in the valley floor exhibit closed bathymetric contours at both ends. Valley floor sediments are mainly calcareous muddy, gravelly sand on the middle shelf, giving way to well-sorted, gravely sand containing a large relict fraction on the outer shelf. The valley extends between broad platform reefs and framework coral growth, which accumulated through the late Quaternary, coincides with tidal current scour to produce steep-sided (locally vertical) valley walls. The deepest segments of the valley were probably the sites of lakes during the last ice age, when Torres Strait formed an emergent land-bridge between Australia and Papua New Guinea. Numerical modeling predicts that the strongest tidal currents occur over the deepest, outer-shelf segment of the valley when sea level is about 40–50 m below its present position. These results are consistent with a Pleistocene age and relict origin of the valley.

Based on these observations, we propose a new conceptual model for the formation of tidally incised shelf valleys. Tidal erosion on meso- to macro-tidal, rimmed carbonate shelves is enhanced during sea level rise and fall when a tidal, hydraulic pressure gradient is established between the shelf-lagoon and the adjacent ocean basin. Tidal flows attain a maximum, and channel incision is greatest, when a large hydraulic pressure gradient coincides with small channel cross sections. Our tidal-incision model may explain the observation of other workers, that sediment is exported from the Great Barrier Reef shelf to the adjacent ocean basins during intermediate (rather than last glacial maximum) low-stand, sea level positions. The model may apply to other rimmed shelves, both modern and ancient.     

受扰线性系统的前馈-反馈最优控制

针对具有外部持续扰动的线性系统，研究前馈-反馈最优控制律的设计问题。给出了最优控制律的存在唯一性条件。并提出了最优控制律的设计算法。利用滤波器解决了前馈控制的物理不可实现问题。仿真结果表明，此算法易于实现，与传统的反馈最优控制相比对抑制外部扰动具有较强的鲁棒性。