Exact solution and approximate solution of irregular wave radiation stress for non-breaking wave

Wave radiation stress is the main driving force of wave-induced near-shore currents. It is directly related to the hydrodynamic characteristics of near-shore current whether the calculation of wave radiation stress is accurate or not. Irregular waves are more capable of reacting wave motion in the ocean compared to regular waves.Therefore, the calculation of the radiation stress under irregular waves will be more able to reflect the wave driving force in the actual near-shore current. Exact solution and approximate solution of the irregular wave radiation stress are derived in this paper and the two kinds of calculation methods are compared. On the basis of this, the experimental results are used to further verify the calculation of wave energy in the approximate calculation method. The results show that the approximate calculation method of irregular wave radiation stress has a good accuracy under the condition of narrow-band spectrum, which can save a lot of computing time, and thus improve the efficiency of calculation. However, the exact calculation method can more accurately reflect the fluctuation of radiation stress at each moment and each location.     

南海北部陆架区内波的演变与耗散机制

海洋是多尺度强迫-耗散系统,机械能主要在大尺度输入,在小尺度耗散。在大、中尺度运动的能量向小尺度湍流传递过程中,内波扮演着重要角色。内波的生成和破碎可打破海洋动力平衡,而在陆架区,内波（主要是内孤立波）的浅化演变与耗散则是驱动湍流混合的关键过程。通过长期的理论、观测与数值模拟研究,目前已认识到内波浅化过程中主要发生如下演变：波形调制、极性转变、裂变、破碎与耗散。相较于直接发生破碎,浅化演变过程中的裂变及其引发的剪切不稳定和对流不稳定是内孤立波在陆架区的主要耗散机制,显著调制陆架区的跃层混合。从能量串级的角度讲,内孤立波浅化裂变为动力不稳定的高频内波是潮能串级的重要通道。本文简要回顾南海北部陆架区内波的研究历史,并着重总结内波在陆架区演变与耗散机制的研究进展。     

圆形数值波浪水池斜向和多向入射波浪模拟研究

为了研究斜向入射波浪,基于三维不可压缩两相流模型,开发了一套圆形数值波浪水池数值模型。在圆形波浪水池中,通过源项造波法成功生成了任意入射方向的波浪,并且利用人工摩擦项模拟阻尼区以数值耗散反射波浪。模型基于嵌入式多块网格体系,采用FVM法(finite volume method)离散Navier-Stokes方程,VOF法(volume of fluid)追踪自由水面。试验结果表明,斜向入射波浪的模拟结果与理论值基本一致,圆形波浪水池在模拟斜向入射波浪时,有效区域的面积较传统波浪水池显著增大,而且有效区域受波浪入射角度的影响也较小。同时,通过叠加多列斜向入射波浪,模拟出了多向交叉波列,并通过与理论结果对比,发现其具有较高的精度。     

基于多源遥感数据的日本海内波特征研究

日本海特殊的地理位置和复杂的地形使得该海域内波表征极为复杂,遥感是大范围观测内波的有效手段,已被广泛应用于内波的探测研究。本文利用MODIS、GF-1和ENVISAT ASAR遥感影像,开展了日本海内波特征研究。通过提取内波波峰线,生成了日本海内波空间分布图;获取了内波的波峰线长度和传播速度,并基于非线性薛定谔方程反演了内波振幅。研究结果表明,日本海内波分布范围宽广,不仅大陆架沿海区内波分布密集,深海盆地也探测到了大量内波;日本海北部45°N附近海域有少量内波出现,利用高分影像探测到朝鲜陆架浅海区有大量小尺度内波,大和海盆、大和隆起的西南部海域没有发现内波。日本海内波波峰线长达100多千米,深海区的传播速度大于1 m/s;浅海区内波振幅约10 m左右,深海区可达60 m以上。     

海气动量通量研究综述

海气界面动量通量也称为风应力,是海流和表面海浪的主要驱动力,是海洋从大气获得动量的重要途径。因此,合理可靠的海洋表面风应力的参数化对于海洋、大气和波浪以及气候模式的准确预报都具有非常重要的科学意义和实用价值。对风应力拖曳系数的参数化是风应力参数化的主要内容。近来的观测发现,风应力拖曳系数随着风速的增加出现了先增后减的趋势,同时还与海面的波浪状态以及海流有关。基于观测或理论分析,目前已经得到了一系列的风应力拖曳系数计算方法或公式,有的考虑了海浪的作用,有的没有,但这些方案大都是适合中低风速,在高风速下的适用性还有待检验。本文回顾了目前在海气动量通量观测和参数化方面的研究进展,并建议应增加高风速下风速、海流以及海浪等的同步观测,以进一步完善风应力参数化方案。     

开孔率对明基床上开孔沉箱波浪反射系数影响的数值研究

开孔率是开孔沉箱波浪反射系数的重要影响因素,迄今为止关于开孔沉箱的物模试验研究成果(包括《防波堤设计与施工规范》)中,开孔率μ通常以线性关系反映在开孔沉箱波浪反射系数的计算关系式中,适用范围为0.2~0.4。但当μ0.2或μ0.4时,开孔率μ对波浪反射系数Kr的影响规律尚需进一步的研究探讨。现借助二维数值波浪水槽,在扩大了的开孔率取值范围内,模拟不规则波与可渗明基床上开孔沉箱的相互作用。结果表明:在0.2≤μ≤0.4的范围内,用线性关系描述开孔率μ对波浪反射系数Kr的影响是合适的;在μ0.4时,数模值和物模试验拟合的经验关系式的趋势是一致的;在μ0.2时,开孔沉箱反射系数K_r随开孔率μ的减小而增大,用物模试验拟合的经验关系式及《防波堤设计与施工规范》中计算公式的线性关系来描述开孔率μ对反射系数K_r的影响是不恰当的。研究成果对开孔沉箱消浪机理的深入认识和开孔沉箱结构的优化设计具有重要意义。     

Wave-like aquatic propulsion of mono-hull marine vessels

The present paper describes results of the experimental investigation of a small-scale mono-hull model boat propelled by a localised flexural wave propagating along the plate of finite width forming the boat's keel. Forward propulsion of the boat was achieved through flexural wave propagation in the opposite direction, which is similar to the aquatic propulsion used in nature by stingrays. The model boat under consideration underwent a series of tests both in a Perspex water tank and in an experimental pool. In particular, the forward velocity of the boat has been measured for different frequencies and amplitudes of the flexural wave. The highest velocity achieved was 32 cm/s. The thrust and propulsive efficiency have been measured as well. The obtained value of the propulsive efficiency in the optimum regime was 51%. This indicates that the efficiency of this type of aquatic propulsion is comparable to that of dolphins and sharks (around 75%) and to that of a traditional propeller (around 70%). In contrast with a propeller though, the wave-like aquatic propulsion has the following advantages: it does not generate underwater noise and it is safe for people and marine animals.     

Sub-seasonal variability of Luzon Strait Transport in a high resolution global model

The Luzon Strait is the main impact pathway of the Kuroshio on the circulation in South China Sea (SCS). Based on the analysis of the 1997–2007 altimeter data and 2005–2006 output data from a high resolution global HYCOM model, the total Luzon Strait Transport (LST) has remarkable subseasonal oscillations with a typical period of 90 to 120 days, and an average value of 1.9 Sv into SCS. Further spectrum analysis shows that the temporal variability of the LST at different depth is remarkable different. In the upper layer (0–300 m), westward inflow has significant seasonal and subseasonal variability. In the bottom layer (below 1 200 m), eastward outflow exhibits remarkable seasonal variability, while subseasonal variability is also clear. In the intermediate layer, the westward inflow is slightly bigger than the eastward outflow, and both of them have obvious seasonal and subseasonal variability. Because the seasonal variation of westward inflow and eastward outflow is opposite, the total transport of intermediate layer exhibits significant 50–150 days variation, without obvious seasonal signals. The westward Rossby waves with a period of 90 to 120 days in the Western Pacific have very clear correlationship with the Luzon Strait Transport, this indicates that the interaction between these westward Rossby waves and Kuroshio might be the possible mechanism of the subseasonal variation of the LST.     

A study of internal solitary waves observed on the continental shelf in the northwestern South China Sea

Based on in-situ time series data from the acoustic Doppler current profiler (ADCP) and thermistor chain in Wenchang area, a sequence of internal solitary wave (ISW) packets was observed in September 2005, propagating northwest on the continental shelf of the northwestern South China Sea (SCS). Corresponding to different stratification of the water column and tidal condition, both elevation and depression ISWs were observed at the same mooring location with amplitude of 35 m and 25 m respectively in different days. Regular arrival of the remarkable ISW packets at approximately the diurnal tidal period and the dominance of diurnal internal waves in the study area, strongly suggest that the main energy source of the waves is the diurnal tide. Notice that the wave packets were all riding on the troughs and shoulders of the internal tides, they were probably generated locally from the shelf break by the evolution of the internal tides due to nonlinear and dispersive effects.     

Importance of wave-induced bed liquefaction in the fine sediment budget of Cleveland Bay,Great Barrier Reef

Data from a three-year long field study of fine sediment dynamics in Cleveland Bay show that wave-induced liquefaction of the fine sediment bed on the seafloor in shallow water was the main process causing bed erosion under small waves during tradewinds, and that shear-induced erosion prevailed during cyclonic conditions. These data were used to verify a model of fine sediment dynamics that calculates sediment resuspension by both excess shear stress and wave-induced liquefaction of the bed. For present land-use conditions, the amount of riverine sediments settling on the bay may exceed by 50–75% the amount of sediment exported from the bay. Sediment is thus accumulating in the bay on an annual basis, which in turn may degrade the fringing coral reefs. For those years when a tropical cyclone impacted the bay there may be a net sediment outflow from the bay. During the dry, tradewind season, fine sediment was progressively winnowed out of the shallow, reefal waters.