Study on Flow Field Around Vertical Breakwater Under Different Overtopping Conditions Based on Numerical Simulation

A numerical wave flume is constructed based on the Reynolds Averaged Navier-Stokes (RANS) equations with turbulence closure by a modified k-ε model to study the viscous interactions of waves with vertical breakwaters for different overtopping cases. The governing equations,the turbulence model,boundary conditions,and solution method for the numerical wave flume are introduced briefly. The reliability of the numerical wave flume is examined by comparing the numerical results with the experimental measurement...     

Refraction-Diffraction Mathematical Model for Waves With Lateral Energy Transmission Mechanism and Its Verification

To solve problems concerning wave elements and wave propagation, an effective way is the wave energy balance equation, which is widely applied in oceanography and ocean dynamics for its simple computation. The present papaer advances wave energy balance equations considering lateral energy transmission and energy loss as the governing equation for the study of wave refraction-diffraction. For the mathematical model, numerical simulation is made by means of difference method, and the result is verified with two examples.     

双峰谱型海浪的波高和周期分布

本文利用收集到的实测双峰谱型海浪过程资料，把这些资料以波高和周期的相关系数为参数分成５组，讨论每组双峰谱型下被高、周期的统计分布．并探讨了相关系数对波高分布和周期分布的影响。     

Numerical Simulation of Abnormal Wave Height Change Induced by Excavated Waterway with Boussinesq Equation

A nonlinear numerical model has been set up by use of Boussinesq Equation with finite differ-ence method,and has been applied to the simulation of the abnormal change of wave height induced by ex-cavated waterway.Numerical results demonstrate that the abnormal change of wave height is due to theadding of the reflected wave height induced by excavated waterway to the incident wave height.Becausethe angle between the incident wave and the axis of the waterway is smaller than the critical angle,the re-flected wave produced by the waterway may propagate to the breakwater and may be added with the inci-dent wave,then the abnormal change of wave height before the breakwater may be caused.So the wave re-flection caused by the change of water depth cannot be neglected.     

On the choice of data transformation for modelling time series of significant wave height

Autoregressive models have been shown to adequately model the time series of significant wave height. However, since this series exhibits a seasonal component and has a non-gaussian nature, it is necessary to transform the series before a model can be fit to the data. Two different transformations that have been used in earlier work are shown not to be appropriate for all types of applications. A third transformation is proposed here, which combines the better features of the two earlier ones and which is appropriate for simulation work. This is demonstrated with an example of a series from Figueira da Foz, a location of the Portuguese Coast.     

南黄海海相地层速度的提取及其特征

南黄海盆地特殊的地震地质条件导致准确获得海相地层速度存在困难。基于本区的多道地震资料,联合使用多数据质控速度分析、初至波层析反演及层控网格层析反演3种方法,提取出了较为可靠的海相中-古生界速度信息。结合提取的地震速度及下扬子区已有钻井信息,总结了南黄海主要海相地层的速度分布。本区海相地层速度整体呈高低相间分布结构,存在速度的突变和倒转。海相下构造层速度高,不同地层间速度差异较小。由于海相下构造层无钻井资料约束,获得的速度信息仍存在不确定性。     

基于ROMS和4DVAR的沿轨与网格化SSH数据同化效果评价

Remote sensing products are significant in the data assimilation of an ocean model. Considering the resolution and space coverage of different remote sensing data, two types of sea surface height(SSH) product are employed in the assimilation, including the gridded products from AVISO and the original along-track observations used in the generation. To explore their impact on the assimilation results, an experiment focus on the South China Sea(SCS) is conducted based on the Regional Ocean Modeling System(ROMS) and the four-dimensional variational data assimilation(4 DVAR) technology. The comparison with EN4 data set and Argo profile indicates that, the along-track SSH assimilation result presents to be more accurate than the gridded SSH assimilation, because some noises may have been introduced in the merging process. Moreover, the mesoscale eddy detection capability of the assimilation results is analyzed by a vector geometry–based algorithm. It is verified that, the assimilation of the gridded SSH shows superiority in describing the eddy's characteristics, since the complete structure of the ocean surface has been reconstructed by the original data merging.     

A 10-year wave energy resource assessment and trends of Indonesia based on satellite observations

Wave energy resource assessment and trends around Indonesian's ocean has been carried out by means of analyzing satellite observations. Wave energy flux or wave power can be approximated using parameterized sea states derived from satellite data. Unfortunately, only some surface parameters can be measured from remote sensing satellites, for example for ocean surface waves: significant wave height. Others, like peak wave period and energy period are not available, but can instead be estimated using empirical models. The results have been assessed by meteorological season. The assessment shows clearly where and when the wave power resource is promising around Indonesian's ocean. The most striking result was found from June to August, in which about 30–40 kW/m(the 90 th percentile: 40–60 kW/m, the 99th percentile: 50–70 kW/m) wave power energy on average has been found around south of the Java Island. The significant trends of wave energy at the 95% level have also been studied and it is found that the trends only occurred for the extreme cases, which is the 99th percentile(i.e.,highest 1%). Wave power energy could increase up to 150 W/m per year. The significant wave heights and wave power have been compared with the results obtained from global wave model hindcast carried out by wave model WAVEWATCH III. The comparisons indicated excellent agreements.     

基于浮标资料的中国东部海域最大波高特征分析

利用原国家海洋局2010—2015年的浮标资料,计算渤、黄、东海有效波高和最大波高的线性关系,并通过1992—2011年共20 a的数值模拟有效波高资料计算中国东部海域各月的2.5 m、4 m、6 m以上最大波高频率和最大波高月极值分布。结果发现:中国东部海域由北至南,最大波高与有效波高的比值逐渐增大;最大波高频率和最大波高月极值空间分布均由渤海、黄海至东海逐渐增大,最大波高频率的极值12月最大,4或5月最小,最大波高月极值9月最大,4月最小。其时空分布表明:受不同天气系统影响,夏秋季台风较多,容易出现极值较大的最大波高;秋冬季冷空气较强,虽然最大波高极值相对较小,但大浪持续时间长、频率大、影响范围广。     

东北季风期台湾海峡的逆温现象

利用2006-2008年3个航次水文资料,结合日本海洋数据中心(JODC)的历史温度数据分析了东北季风期台湾海峡的逆温现象。结果显示,除台湾浅滩及海峡西岸浅水区外,几乎整个台湾海峡皆有逆温现象。逆温幅度和发生频率在海峡西部较高,海峡东部及粤东近海较低。逆温层上界深度春季较秋、冬季深,逆温频发区(发生频率大于60%)随着季节南北向移动,秋季频发区的最南端位于厦门近海,冬季扩展至台湾浅滩北部,春季回退至平潭近海。分析表明,浙闽沿岸水随季节南北向伸缩导致了逆温频发区的同步移动。除了季节变化外,逆温现象在2006年和2007年冬季有显著差异,2006年逆温仅出现在海峡西部近岸海域,2007年扩展至海峡东部且向南伸至粤东近岸,浙闽沿岸水的横向伸缩是造成此差异的主因。