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31.
1 .Introduction Wave breaking and associated whitecapping have long beeninteresting due totheir close relationto many fields of ocean study,including air-sea interaction,remote sensing,ocean engineering,aswell as wave dynamics .The breaking probabilityBan… 相似文献
32.
33.
Beach profiles have been observed to change over a range of spatial and temporal scales; however techniques for quantifying this variability have not been fully established. In this paper, a wavelet technique is introduced as a method to study the multi-scale variability of beach profiles. The beach profile data comprising a 22-year time series surveyed at the US Army Corps of Civil Engineers Field Research Facility (FRF) at Duck are analysed using the adapted maximal overlap discrete wavelet transform (AMODWT). The analysis successfully identifies strong local features in the variability of beach profiles in time and space separately that cannot be isolated by traditional statistical methods. The analysis of spatial wavelet variances provides a new means of investigating the depth of closure. Analysis of variances by temporal scales shows that the combined effects of several temporal scales with one or two dominant scales can be seen at particular points across profiles whilst the dominant temporal scales are different at different portions of the profiles. The method allows for the extremely nonstationary behaviour of beach profile to be analysed into separate frequency bands that can facilitate the interpretation of morphological changes in terms of physical processes. 相似文献
34.
The mixing agents and their role in the dynamics of a shallow fjord are elucidated through an Eulerian implementation of artificial tracers in a three-dimensional hydrodynamic model. The time scales of vertical mixing in this shallow estuary are short, and the artificial tracers are utilized in order to reveal information not detectable in the temperature or salinity fields. The fjord's response to external forcing is investigated through a series of model experiments in which we quantify vertical mixing, transport time scales of fresh water runoff and estuarine circulation in relation to external forcing.Using age tracers released at surface and bottom, we quantify the time scales of downward mixing of surface water and upward mixing of bottom water. Wind is shown to be the major agent for vertical mixing at nearly all depth levels in the fjord, whereas the tide or external sea level forcing is a minor agent and only occasionally more important just close to the bottom. The time scale of vertical mixing of surface water to the bottom or ventilation time scale of bottom water is estimated to be in the range 0.7 h to 9.0 days, with an average age of 2.7 days for the year 2004.The fjord receives fresh water from two streams entering the innermost part of the fjord, and the distribution and age of this water are studied using both ageing and conservative tracers. The salinity variations outside this fjord are large, and in contrast to the salinity, the artificial tracers provide a straight forward analysis of river water content. The ageing tracer is used to estimate transport time scales of river water (i.e. the time elapsed since the water left the river mouth). In May 2004, the typical age of river water leaving the fjord mouth is 5 days. As the major vertical mixing agent is wind, it controls the estuarine circulation and export of river water. When the wind stress is set to zero, the vertical mixing is reduced and the vertical salinity stratification is increased, and the river water can be effectively exported out of the fjord.We also analyse the river tracer fields and salinity field in relation to along estuary winds in order to detect signs of wind-induced straining of the along estuary density gradient. We find that events of down estuary winds are primarily associated with a reduced along estuary salinity gradient due to increased surface salinity in the innermost part of the fjord, and with an overall decrease in vertical stratification and river water content at the surface. Thus, our results show no apparent signs of wind-induced straining in this shallow fjord but instead they indicate increased levels of vertical mixing or upwelling during down estuary wind events. 相似文献
35.
Temporal change of clustered distribution in vertical profiles of three nutritional groups of planktonic ciliates, e.g. heterotrophic
naked ciliates, mixotrophic naked ciliates and heterotrophic loricated ciliates, was investigated by following a drifting
buoy in Toyama Bay on the Japan Sea coast of central Japan in summers of 1989 and 1990. Clustered distribution, represented
as the mode of population density in the vertical plane, occurred mainly in the oligotrophic upper layer (0–50 m depth) above
the subsurface chlorophyll-a maximum layer. Its clustered degree was stronger when the mode of population density in the vertical plane was formed at
shallower depth, while its longevity was shorter as mentioned above. Vertical distribution of ciliates during summer in Toyama
Bay is characterized by ephemeral clustered distribution, or in other wards, by rapid alternations of appearance and disappearance
of the clustered distribution. 相似文献
36.
Toward a generic method for studying water renewal, with application to the epilimnion of Lake Tanganyika 总被引:3,自引:0,他引:3
Olivier Gourgue Eric Deleersnijder Laurent White 《Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science》2007,74(4):628
We present a method, based on the concept of age and residence time, to study the water renewal in a semi-enclosed domain. We split the water of this domain into different water types. The initial water is the water initially present in the semi-enclosed domain. The renewing water is defined as the water entering the domain of interest. Several renewing water types may be considered depending on their origin. We present the equations for computing the age and the residence time of a certain water type. These timescales are of use to understand the rate at which the water renewal takes place. Computing these timescales can be achieved at an acceptable extra computer cost.The above-mentioned method is applied to study the renewal of epilimnion (i.e. the surface layer) water in Lake Tanganyika. We have built a finite element reduced-gravity model modified to take into account the water exchange between the epilimnion and the hypolimnion (i.e. the bottom layer), the water supply from precipitation and incoming rivers, and the water loss from evaporation and the only outgoing river. With our water renewal diagnoses, we show that the only significant process in the renewal of epilimnion water in Lake Tanganyika is the water exchange between the epilimnion and the hypolimnion, other phenomena being negligible. 相似文献
37.
两参量的海面阻力系数模式的探讨 总被引:4,自引:0,他引:4
从风浪的能量平衡方程出发,引进若干风要素与波要素以及波要素之间的定性关系,经演算可导出海面阻力系数(Cp)或是风速(U)和波龄(β)或是U和波高(H)的函数,然后沿用最小二乘法,终将得出4组12个回归方程。当β(或β)或H为某一给定值,惟有U为唯一参量时,所提各式均可简化为非线性方程:CD=a+b,U+c.U^2;式中a,b和c为三个经验系数,就所检验的例子而言,本文的结果与实际的符合前人的为好。 相似文献
38.
M. Mistri 《Marine Ecology》1995,16(3):181-188
Abstract. The gorgonian Lophogorgia ceratophyta thrives in turbid water at Tinetto Rock, La Spezia Gulf, Ligurian Sea. Its age structure suggests that the population is in a steady state; nevertheless, it is difficult to discern whether the main factors controlling this population are biological or event-related. Secondary production was estimated by means of an increment-summation method and yielded 0.54 g ash-free dry weight (AFDW)*m-1 a-1 . This estimate does not take into account biomass losses due to reproductive output and non-lethal predation. Standing stock biomass was 5.44 g AFDW e m-2 . The annual P/B ratio was 0.10 and turnover time about 10a 相似文献
39.
提出用B样条函数求解曲线、曲面上重磁位场的向上延拓,水平、垂向导数计算,磁异常分量互换的方法。该方法的特点是:原理简明,程序通用性强,计算精度高。 相似文献
40.