Variations in wave direction estimated using first and second order Fourier coefficients

In most design applications such as alignment of the berthing structure and breakwater alignment, it becomes necessary to determine the direction of design wave. There are two different approaches to determine wave direction. One involves the use of first order Fourier coefficients (mean wave direction) while the other uses second order Fourier coefficients (principal wave direction). Both the average wave direction over the entire frequency range (0.03–0.58 Hz) and the direction corresponding to the peak frequency are used in practice. In the present study, comparison is made on wave directions estimated based on first and second order Fourier coefficients using data collected at four locations in the west and east coasts of India. Study shows that at all locations, the mean and principal wave directions for frequencies ranging from 0.07 to 0.25 Hz (±0.5 times peak frequency) co-vary with a correlation coefficient of 0.99 but at lower and higher frequencies, difference between the parameters is large. Average difference between the mean wave direction at peak frequency and the average over the frequency related to spectral energy more than 20% of maximum value is less, around 13°. Study shows that average difference in the sea and swell directions is around 39°.     

中国鱼类名录ⅩⅢ——鲽形目、纯形目、海蛾鱼目、鮟鱇目

鲽形目3亚目8科51属142种。鲀形目2亚目9科57属143种。海蛾鱼目1科2属3种，鮟鱇目3亚目11科23属41种。     

Response of the barrier island coastal region of southwestern Nigeria to climate and non-climate forcing

Despite threats emanating from the influence of climate and non-climate forcing on the barrier island coastal region of southwestern Nigeria, the extent of the coastal erosion is poorly understood. We report evidence of coastal erosion and sediment accumulation in the region over a 34-year period (1973–2017), using Landsat imagery at intervals of approximately six years. Landsat image corrections and various water-extraction algorithms were used to systematically delineate coastal erosion and accumulation in the area. The region was subdivided into western and eastern subregions separated by Lagos Harbour. In the west, erosion took place during the periods 1973–1979, 1979–1984, 1990–1999 and 2005–2011, whereas in the east, erosion occurred during 1973–1979, 1990–1999 and 1999–2005. Coastal sediment accumulation occurred in the east during 1979–1984, 1984–1990, 2005–2011 and 2011–2017, whereas gains in the west occurred during 1984–1990, 1999–2005 and 2011–2017. The study revealed substantial net erosion of 1 228.1 ha in the region as a whole, over the full period. Sediment accumulation accompanying the coastal erosion appears to be linked to longshore drift. Erosion between 1973 and 2011 was probably attributable to climate change (storms and tidal conditions), longshore drift, the inflow and outflow of water at Lagos Harbour, coastal morphology and, possibly, human impacts. However, the coastal changes between 2011 and 2017 were more obviously associated with human activities, such as development of the Eko Atlantic construction project. Coastal surveillance, together with the use of environmentally sensitive protective measures, could possibly help to reduce coastal erosion in the region. Careful coastal management practices, including artificial nourishing and the installation of resilient structures (e.g. seawalls), should be undertaken to protect human settlements that are already at risk from sea-level rise.     

全数字十二相稳压稳流微机控制系统

提出用于十二相可控整流器的８０９８单片机控制系统的电路原理和软件策略。包括自适应控制算法和触发相序计算在内的多种操作全部用软件实现．与通常的方法相比，此系统的成本更低，动态性能和静态性能更好。     

海底管道开沟机械的技术经济性能评定与选型

本文在对水下管道开沟机械的需求市场、实际应用和研制开发动向作深入调研的基础上，选择水下管道开沟机械特有的技术先进性、适用性、安全可靠性以及经济性评价指标，构造评价模型，对水下管道施工作业中广为应用的水力冲射开沟机械、海底管道犁、机械开沟机和土壤液化法埋管设备及其机型的技术经济性能作了较为详尽地分析对比及综合评价。在此基础上，笔者提出了水下管道开沟机械的一般选型原则和对我国海底管道开沟机械研究开发工     

Oligocene sequence stratigraphy and basin development in the Danish North Sea sector based on log interpretations

Five sequences are defined in the Oligocene succession of the Danish North Sea sector. Two of the sequences, 4.1a and 4.3, have been identified onshore Denmark.Two types of prograding lowstand deposits are recognized. Sand-dominated deposits occur proximally, comprising sharp-based forced regressive deposits covered with prograding low-stand deposits. Clay-dominated prograding lowstand deposits occur distally in the sequences. The highstand deposits are proximally represented by thick prograding sandy deposits and distally by thin and condensed intervals.The main sediment input direction was from the north and the northeast. A succession oif lithofacies, from shallow marine facies dominated by sand to outer shelf facies dominated by clay, is mapped in each of the sequences. An overall southward progradation of the shoreline took place during the Oligocene, interrupted only by minor shoreline retreats.     

溴素的有机化学──Ⅴ.溴代脂肪酸—2,3,5,6—四溴—1,4—苯二酯的合成

以1，4—苯二酚和不同的短链脂肪酸为基本原料，经溴代、加成、形成酰卤和酰化等反应，合成了六种新的溴化脂肪酸—2，3，5，6—四溴—1，4—苯二酯。通过对产物的碳、氢、溴等元素的定量分析，以及红外吸收光谱和氢核磁共振谱的研究，验证了化合物的结构。     

公用微机硬盘信息保护的一种有效方法

介绍一种保护公用微机硬盘信息的有效方法．不仅可以预防各种计算机病毒，更重要的是可以防止人为操作对硬盘信息的破坏。适用于学校等开放性微机实验室的信息安全与保护．     

季节内SST和混合层深度变化的模式研究

用Niiler—Kraus类型的混合层积分模式,对TOGA—COARE强化观测期间由《实验3号》科学考察船观测资料得到的混合层深度和SST在季节内时间尺度的变化进行了模式研究。指出:1.混合层耗散参数与较长时间尺度过程风应力的变化存在着比较好的对应关系;2.模式可以较好的对风场和热通量场在季节内时间尺度的变化作出响应,模拟出季节内时间尺度SST的变化;3.Niiler,-Kraus模式在考虑耗散作用后,可用于海洋季节内时间尺度变化的模式研究。