台湾海峡1997年8月至1999年8月份海水光学衰减系数的分布特征

利用1997－1999年间8月份台湾海峡的实测资料，分析了海水光学衰减系数的垂直分布类型、水平分布特征。结果表明，台湾海峡海水光学衰减系数的垂直分布类型主要分为5种，大部分随深度而递增；光学衰减系数等值线基本与岸线平行，水平梯度自北向南、自近岸向外海递减，近岸等值线密集，而外海稀疏；影响台湾海峡光学衰减系数的主要因素是县浮物质（主要含浮游生物）和海流运动。     

Dynamic Response Behaviors of Upright Breakwaters Under Breaking Wave Impact

- The dynamic response behaviors of upright breakwaters under broken wave impact are analysed based on the mass-damper-spring dynamic system model. The effects of the mass, damping, stiffness, natural period, and impulse duration (or oscillation period) on the translation, rotation, sliding force, overturning moment, and corresponding dynamic amplifying factors are studied. It is concluded that the ampli-ying factors only depend on the ratio of the system natural period to impulse duration (or oscillation period) under a certain damping ratio. Moreover, the equivalent static approach to breakwater design is also discussed.     

波峰特征量的统计分布

本文在作者另文数值模拟得到的三维海浪基础上 ,进一步分析给出了三维波峰长度、高度及方向角度等特征量的统计分布。发现考虑海浪的方向性质后波峰分布不再是均匀连续的 ;波峰的长度分布受方向函数影响 ,方向分布越宽 ,波峰的平均长度越短 ,波峰的方向角分布越宽 ;波峰高度和长度在波峰高度较小时有很大的相关性 ,而在波峰高度很大时无关     

Effect of Sea Level Variation on Tidal Characteristic Values for the East China Sea

1 .IntroductionTheglobalairtemperatureroseabout 0 .5～ 0 .6°Coverthepast 2 0thcentury ,andtheglobalmeansealevelincreasedbyabout2 0cmduringtheperiod .Theregionalmeansealevelriseswiththerisingglobalmeansealevel.Zuoetal.( 1 997)indicatedthatthemeanrisingrateofabsolutemeansealevelalongtheChinacoastontheassumptionofunifiedisostaticdatumis 2mm a .Woodworth( 1 999)analyzedsealevelspanning 1 76 8tothepresentinLiverpool,andobtainedaseculartrendforheperiodupto 1 880of0 .39± 0 .1 7mm a ,andatrendfort…     

A Three-Point Method for Separating Incident and Reflected Waves over A Sloping Bed

This study presents a three-point method for separating incident and reflected waves to explain normally incident waves' propagating over a sloping bed. Linear wave shoaling is used to determine changes in wave amplitude and phase in response to variations of bathymetry. The wave reflection coefficient and incident amplitude are estimated from wave heights measured at three fixed wave gauges with unequal spacing. Sensitivity analysis demonstrates that the proposed method can predict the reflection and amplitude of waves over a sloping bed more accurately than the two-point method.     

层结流体中的非线性惯性重力内波

根据地球流体力学基本方程组,在密度垂直层结的情况下,引进行波坐标,研究非线性定形波在相平面上的几何拓扑结构。严格论证了不存在定形孤立波,并通过Ｈａｍｉｌｔｏｎ函数及其角作用变把行波系统化成最简形式,由此而得到非线性惯性重力内波的解析解。     

Nutrient attenuation in a shallow,gravel-bed river. II. Spatial and temporal changes in nitrogen dynamics and community metabolism

ABSTRACT

Instream processes alter the concentration and bioavailability of nutrients as they are transported downstream. By relating primary production and periphyton composition to changes in nutrient concentration in a gravel-bed river this study made inferences about recycling and attenuation. Where dissolved inorganic nitrogen (DIN) was abundant, concentrations decreased linearly with distance but by less than required to meet the nitrogen demand of primary production. Where DIN was barely measurable photosynthesis was reduced but only by 50%. We infer that recycling sustained primary production even when DIN concentrations were negligibly small. One implication is that DIN removal underestimates attenuation. Further experimental research on recycling and improved modelling is required to better quantify the length of streams adversely affected by nutrients.     

青岛地区的台风暴潮与潮灾

本文分析了青岛沿海地区的台风暴潮灾害状况，给出了潮位与海浪的联合作用对灾的影响关系式，提出了今后风暴潮预报的思路。     

High parallelization efficiency in barotropic-mode computation of ocean models based on multi-grid boundary ghost area

In general, barotropic-mode computation requires the largest communication time in ocean models because of its iterative nature, when parallel computation is performed based on regional partitioning. In this study, reduction in the overhead time included in the communication in the parallel computation of the barotropic mode is considered to achieve a high parallelization efficiency of ocean models. We verify that the reduction in the communication frequency based on the multi-grid boundary ghost area reduces the total communication time. We find that this is because the sum of several kinds of overhead time for communication occupies a fairly large part of the total communication time. We discuss the trade-off between the decrease in communication time and the increase in computation time due to increased boundary area in such cases, leading to a determination of a suitable width of the multi-grid boundary that minimizes the total required time. We also discuss the efficiencies of the one- and two-dimensional partitioning of the model domain, when a multi-grid boundary is used. In general, two-dimensional partitioning is more efficient than one-dimensional for large partitioning numbers.     

Effects of Irregular Wave Groups on Pile Forces

The wave forces on 1, 2 and 4 vertical circular piles under the action of several wave trains of the same wave parameters, such as Hs,Tp and Mo, but different wave group factor GF are measured in the laboratory. After comparing these forces, it may be concluded that the mean and significant wave forces are almost of no difference for the wave trains with different GF. When GF is larger, the one-tenth of the wave froce extreme is slightly increased and the maximum wave force is much larger than the ones with smaller GF, to which attention must be paid in engineering practice.