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51.
We develop techniques of numerical wave generation in the time-dependent extended mild-slope equations of Suh et al. [1997. Time-dependent equations for wave propagation on rapidly varying topography. Coastal Engineering 32, 91–117] and Lee et al. [2003. Extended mild-slope equation for random waves. Coastal Engineering 48, 277–287] for random waves using a source function method. Numerical results for both regular and irregular waves in one and two horizontal dimensions show that the wave heights and the frequency spectra are properly reproduced. The waves that pass through the wave generation region do not cause any numerical disturbances, showing usefulness of the source function method in avoiding re-reflection problems at the offshore boundary. 相似文献
52.
The numerical mode of nonlinear wave transformation based on both the Laplace equation for water field and the Bemoulli equation for water surface is a kind of time-domain boundary problem with initial conditions. And the basis for establishing the numerical mode of nonlinear wave in time domain is to trace the position of wave free surface and to calculale the instantaneous surface height and surface potential function. This paper firstly utilizes the ‘0-1‘ combined BEM to separate the boundary by means of discretization of Green‘ s integral equation based on the Laplace equation, then separates the free surface of wave with FEM and derives the FEM equation of wave surface that satisfies the nonlinear boundary conditions. By jointly solving the above BEM and FEM equations, the wave potential and surface height could be obtained with iteration in time domain. Thus a new kind of nonlinear numerical mode is established for calculating wave transformation. The wave test in the numerical wave tank shows that the numerical simulation with this mode is of high accuracy. 相似文献
53.
D. Prandle 《Progress in Oceanography》2004,61(1):1-26
For strongly tidal, funnel-shaped estuaries, we examine how tides and river flows determine size and shape. We also consider how long it takes for bathymetric adjustment, both to determine whether present-day bathymetry reflects prevailing forcing and how rapidly changes might occur under future forcing scenarios.Starting with the assumption of a 'synchronous' estuary (i.e., where the sea surface slope resulting from the axial gradient in phase of tidal elevation significantly exceeds the gradient in tidal amplitude ), an expression is derived for the slope of the sea bed. Thence, by integration we derive expressions for the axial depth profile and estuarine length, L, as a function of and D, the prescribed depth at the mouth. Calculated values of L are broadly consistent with observations. The synchronous estuary approach enables a number of dynamical parameters to be directly calculated and conveniently illustrated as functions of and D, namely: current amplitude Û, ratio of friction to inertia terms, estuarine length, stratification, saline intrusion length, flushing time, mean suspended sediment concentration and sediment in-fill times.Four separate derivations for the length of saline intrusion, LI, all indicate a dependency on (Uo is the residual river flow velocity and f is the bed friction coefficient). Likely bathymetries for `mixed' estuaries can be delineated by mapping, against and D, the conditions LI/L<1,EX/L<1 (EX is the tidal excursion) alongside the Simpson-Hunter criteria D/U3<50 m−2 s3. This zone encompasses 24 out of 25 `randomly' selected UK estuaries.However, the length of saline intrusion in a funnel-shaped estuary is also sensitive to axial location. Observations suggest that this location corresponds to a minimum in landward intrusion of salt. By combining the derived expressions for L and LI with this latter criterion, an expression is derived relating Di, the depth at the centre of the intrusion, to the corresponding value of Uo. This expression indicates Uo is always close to 1 cm s−1, as commonly observed. Converting from Uo to river flow, Q, provides a morphological expression linking estuarine depth to Q (with a small dependence on side slope gradients).These dynamical solutions are coupled with further generalised theory related to depth and time-mean, suspended sediment concentrations (as functions of and D). Then, by assuming the transport of fine marine sediments approximates that of a dissolved tracer, the rate of estuarine supply can be determined by combining these derived mean concentrations with estimates of flushing time, FT, based on LI. By further assuming that all such sediments are deposited, minimum times for these deposition rates to in-fill estuaries are determined. These times range from a decade for the shortest, shallowest estuaries to upwards of millennia in longer, deeper estuaries with smaller tidal ranges. 相似文献
54.
In this paper, we analyse the ability of the nonlinear shallow-water (NSW) equations to predict wave distortion and energy dissipation of periodic broken waves in the inner surf zone. This analysis is based on the weak-solution theory for conservative equations. We derive a new one-way model, which applies to the transformation of non-reflective periodic broken waves on gently sloping beaches. This model can be useful to develop breaking-wave parameterizations (in particular broken-wave celerity expression) in both time-averaged wave models and time-dependent Boussinesq-type models. We also derive a new wave set-up equation which provides a simple and explicit relation between wave set-up and energy dissipation. Finally, we compare numerical simulations of both, the NSW model and the simplified one-way model, with spilling wave breaking experiments and we find a good agreement. 相似文献
55.
本文用ECMWF2.5×2.5网格点资料通过一个例子,对有利于南海热带气旋发展的环流场作了详细的分析,发现几点事实:(1)扰动在风的垂直切变较大的环境中仍可发展。(2)扰动位于中、低空西南急流左侧,高空南支东风急流右侧时,有利发展。(3)中,低空西南急流形成了扰动环流的强风潮,强风潮从扰动南侧入角,并包围扰动的东半圆。(4)扰动中、低层的入流和高层的外流呈现严重的不对称性。(5)当扰动发展到一定强度时,对南海热带季风环流圈的加强起到正反馈作用。 相似文献
56.
用自装的BET容量法装置测定了几种粒状钛型吸附剂的比表面及其孔径分布。测定是在常温减压下进行的。结果表明:钛型吸附剂在加铀海水中的吸铀量与样品的比表面及孔径分布有一定的内在联系。这种表面性质的研究对吸附剂的筛选有重要的指导意义。 相似文献
57.
A mathematical model of primary oil migration as a separate phase out of compacting shales is presented. During burial and oil generation, source rock porosity decreases and oil saturation increases until residual oil saturation is reached. At this stage oil is expelled out by capillary and excess fluid pressure gradients. The model is a system of differential equations which relate changes in oil and water saturation in time to water and oil flow out of the source rock during burial. An additional set of equations for periods of erosion of overburden are also provided. The equations can be numerically solved by finite difference method. If oil and water flow is to be simulated during oil generation, then at each time step, changes by oil generation in oil and water saturations and porosity must be calculated. The solution procedure is briefly outlined. 相似文献
58.
Experiments carried out with models of floating production, storage and offloading platforms (FPSOs) showed that the flow of water over the deck edge, onto the deck resembled a suddenly released wall of water rather than a breaking wave. Therefore green water flow onto the deck was simulated using dam breaking theory, but the theory’s shallow-water assumptions may be limiting. In this paper a non-linear dam breaking problem is formulated. Equations of motion in the Lagrangian form are used and the solution is sought as an infinite series in time. Comparisons with the shallow water approximation are carried out. 相似文献
59.
珠江三角洲网河区水位变化趋势研究 总被引:4,自引:0,他引:4
根据珠江三角洲网河区29个验潮站的实测验潮记录,应用傅氏变换与最平滤波器串联的方法来消除月均序列的周期波动对确定水位变化趋势的影响,由低通序列一元线性回归分析确定各站水位的变化趋势;结果表明,周期波动对确定海平面变化趋势的影响是显著的.应用经验正交函数(EOF)对网河区的水位变化场进行分解,由相互独立的时间函数和空间特征函数表征网河区区域的水位变化特征;应用时间特征函数计算区域水位的平均变化率为0.02mm/a.根据验潮站的水位变化趋势,探讨网河区水位变化与河床冲淤的关系. 相似文献
60.
根据Airy均衡原理对Mckenzie沉积盆地初始沉降公式进行了修正,并导出了公式的正确表达式 S=(a[(ρ_o-ρ_c)t_c/a(1-(aT_1t_c)/(2a))-(aT_1ρ_o)/2](1-1/β))/(ρ_o(1-aT_1)-ρ_w) 相似文献