Statistical analysis and forecasts of long-term sandbank evolution at Great Yarmouth, UK

A data-driven model has been developed to analyse the long-term evolution of a sandbank system and to make ensemble predictions in a period of 8 years. The method uses a combination of empirical orthogonal function (EOF) analysis, (to define spatial and temporal patterns of variability), jack-knife resampling, (to generate an ensemble of EOFs), a causal auto-regression technique, (to extrapolate the temporal eigenfunctions), and straightforward statistical analysis of the resulting ensemble of predictions to determine a ‘forecast’ and associated uncertainty. The methodology has been applied to a very demanding site which includes a curved shoreline and a group of mobile nearshore sandbanks. The site is on the eastern coast of the UK and includes the Great Yarmouth sandbanks and neighbouring shoreline. A sequence of 33 high quality historical survey charts reaching back to 1848 have been used to analyse the patterns and to predict morphological evolution of the sandbank system. The forecasts demonstrate an improved skill relative to an assumption of persistence, but suffer in locations where there are propagating features in the morphology that are not well-described by EOFs.     

Water level variations in the Neuse and Pamlico Estuaries,North Carolina due to local and remote forcing

Water level time series records from the Neuse and Pamlico River Estuaries were statistically compared to local and distant wind field data, water level records within the Pamlico Sound and also coastal ocean sites to determine the relative contribution of each time series to water levels in the Neuse and Pamlico Estuaries. The objectives of this study were to examine these time series data using various statistical methods (i.e. autoregressive, empirical orthogonal function analysis (EOF), exploratory data analysis (EDA)) to determine short- and long-time-scale variability, and to develop predictive statistical models that can be used to estimate past water level fluctuations in both the Neuse Estuary (NE) and Pamlico Estuary (PE). Short- and long-time-scale similarities were observed in all time series of estuarine, Pamlico Sound and subtidal coastal ocean water level and wind component data, due to events (nor'easters, fronts and tropical systems) and seasonality. Empirical orthogonal function analyses revealed a strong coastal ocean and wind field contribution to water level in the NE and PE. Approximately 95% of the variation was captured in the first two EOF components for water level data from the NE, sound and coastal ocean, and 70% for the PE, sound and coastal ocean. Spectral density plots revealed strong diurnal signals in both wind and water level data, and a strong cross correlation and coherency between the NE water level and the North/South wind component. There was good agreement between data and predictions using autoregressive statistical models for the NE (R² = 0.92) and PE (R² = 0.76). These methods also revealed significant autoregressive lags for the NE (days 1 and 3) and for the PE (days 1, 2 and 3). Significant departures from predictions are attributed to local meteorological and hydrological events. The autoregressive techniques showed significant predictive improvement over ordinary least squares methods. The results are considered within the context of providing long time-scale hindcast data for the two estuaries, and the importance of these data for multidisciplinary researchers and managers.     

上游建库引水对健跳港冲淤影响的经验预测

从分析健跳港水文和泥沙特性出发,探讨了健跳港水动力和河床演变的基本特征,结果表明,尽管健跳港内落潮最大流速大于涨潮最大流速,但该港泥沙净输沙方向还是朝向港内;流域径流对健跳港海床稳定起着重要作用,维护健跳港冲淤平衡的主要动力来自洪水期的径流.利用水沙关系和河相关系模型预测了健跳港上游引水后对该港海床淤积的影响.     

曹妃甸浅滩表层砂体插桩深度研究

曾妃甸浅滩原为古滦河三角洲,三角洲废弃后,海底表层沉积物在波浪潮流的簸选及自重应力作用下,沉积物颗粒粗化,粒度单一,且堆积紧密,工程强度较高。平台在该海医插桩时往往难以贯穿该层,其实际插桩深度较预定深度存在较大偏差。本文对此类砂体的形成机制、插桩过程中土体的压实作用对砂体强度的影响进行了分析,在对砂体力学参数做出适当调整后,运用太沙基地基极限荷载公式进行计算,得到了与实际情况较为一致的结果。     

黄东海表观光学量与固有光学量经验模式研究

表观光学特性和固有光学特性是海洋光学研究领域的两大主要研究内容。文中通过2003年黄东海试验和2007年908专项海洋光学调查所获取的表观光学参数中的遥感反射率Rrs(λ)、水下遥感反射率rrs(λ)、海水透明度Zs、下行辐照度漫衰减系数Kd(490)、固有光学参数中的后向散射系数bb(λ)和水体吸收系数a(λ),建立了区域性、季节性的表观光学量和固有光学量之间的经验模式,并对模式进行了误差分析和改进。     

Estimation of the wave-related ripple characteristics and induced bed shear stress

A large data set on ripples was collected and examined. A set of new formulas for the prediction of the ripple characteristics is proposed with an emphasis on the disappearance of the ripples. The ripple wavelength was observed to be proportional to the bottom wave excursion but also to be a function of the grain-related Shields parameter and wave period parameter introduced by Mogridge et al. (1994). The ripple steepness was found to be nearly constant for orbital ripples, and with a sharp decrease for suborbital ripples. Two empirical functions are added including the effects of the critical Shields parameters (inception of transport and inception of sheet flow), i.e. giving the boundaries for the ripple existence's domain. The proposed formulas yield better prediction capabilities compared to the previously published formulas, especially when ripples are washed out. The effect of the ripple characteristics on the roughness height and the calculation of the bed shear stress is also discussed. It appeared that the bed shear stress calculation is more sensitive to the empirical coefficient a_r introduced in the estimation of the ripple-induced roughness height or to the limits of existence of the ripples than the ripple characteristics themselves.     

改进型经验正交函数海洋声速剖面预报方法

鉴于深海温跃层以下往往声速值缺乏,声速剖面不完整的原因,提出一种声速剖面的预报方法:在传统经验正交函数预报法基础上,首先改进协方差矩阵的求解方法,将原始数据的空间信息和时间信息有效地融合到协方差矩阵中,通过由大量实测数据统计得出的时间函数的经验公式,得到合成剖面,将二者结合,把不完整剖面垂直向下延拓到海底,较为有效地解决了传统方法求解协方差矩阵和时间函数较粗糙的问题,给出了完整的海洋声速剖面的准确预报.实测数据检验结果表明,改进方法的预报精度比传统方法有了很大提高.     

Nonlinear Effect of Wave Propagation in Shallow Water

—In this paper,a nonlinear model is presented to describe wave transformation in shallow wat-er with the zero-vorticity equation of wave-number vector and energy conservation equation.Thenonlinear effect due to an empirical dispersion relation(by Hedges)is compared with that of Dalrymple＇sdispersion relation.The model is tested against the laboratory measurements for the case of a submergedelliptical shoal on a slope beach,where both refraction and diffraction are significant.The computation re-sults,compared with those obtained through linear dispersion relation.show that the nonlinear effect ofwave transformation in shallow water is important.And the empirical dispersion relation is suitable for re-searching the nonlinearity of wave in shallow water.     

经验模态法在中国沿岸海平面变化中的应用研究

我国现代海平面变化的系统研究,开始于80年代前后,主要集中于海平面年变率和预测。早期所采用的方法有直线回归法、周期法外推预测等,之后有本征分析方法、随机动态预测模型及灰色系统方法等,以上方法各有利弊,但都因为不能较精确得到海平面变化中的各种周期变化而使得预测精度较差,尤其是对于海平面变化中较长周期的分辨方面。     

东、黄海海表面温度季节内变化特征的EOF分析

基于1998—2004年的TRMM/TMI卫星遥感海面温度(SST)数据,在初步分析东、黄海SST的季节分布特征的基础上,采用EOF方法分析了SST的季节内变化特征,进而对SST季节内变化的可能机制进行了探讨。EOF分析获得的前4个模态的累积方差贡献率为57.07%,其结果基本反映了东、黄海SST变化的主要物理过程。其中,EOF的第一模态的方差贡献率占30.17%,其空间模态揭示了以东海北部为中心的、整个海域SST变化趋于一致的特征,这一模态的显著变化周期为6.3周;第二模态的方差贡献率占14.36%,其空间模态呈现东南海域与西北海域SST的反相变化趋势,显著变化周期为8.7周和10.6周;第三模态的方差贡献率占7.02%,其空间SST变率最大的区域位于黄海海域,显著变化周期为6.8,8.7,10.2周等;第四模态的方差贡献率占5.52%,其空间SST变率最大的区域位于东、黄海近海,显著变化周期为6.8周。东、黄海SST季节内变化与此海区大气中的季节内振荡是紧密相关的。