基于浮标资料的中国东部海域最大波高特征分析

利用原国家海洋局2010—2015年的浮标资料,计算渤、黄、东海有效波高和最大波高的线性关系,并通过1992—2011年共20 a的数值模拟有效波高资料计算中国东部海域各月的2.5 m、4 m、6 m以上最大波高频率和最大波高月极值分布。结果发现:中国东部海域由北至南,最大波高与有效波高的比值逐渐增大;最大波高频率和最大波高月极值空间分布均由渤海、黄海至东海逐渐增大,最大波高频率的极值12月最大,4或5月最小,最大波高月极值9月最大,4月最小。其时空分布表明:受不同天气系统影响,夏秋季台风较多,容易出现极值较大的最大波高;秋冬季冷空气较强,虽然最大波高极值相对较小,但大浪持续时间长、频率大、影响范围广。     

赤道东印度洋和孟加拉湾障碍层厚度的季节内和准半年变化

利用2002—2015年ARGO网格化的温度、盐度数据, 结合卫星资料揭示了赤道东印度洋和孟加拉湾障碍层厚度的季节内和准半年变化特征, 探讨了其变化机制。结果表明, 障碍层厚度变化的两个高值区域出现在赤道东印度洋和孟加拉湾北部。在赤道区域, 障碍层同时受到等温层和混合层变化的影响, 5—7月和11—1月受西风驱动, Wyrtki急流携带阿拉伯海的高盐水与表层的淡水形成盐度层结, 同时西风驱动的下沉Kelvin波加深了等温层, 混合层与等温层分离, 障碍层形成。在湾内, 充沛的降雨和径流带来的大量淡水产生很强的盐度层结, 混合层全年都非常浅, 障碍层季节内变化和准半年变化主要受等温层深度变化的影响。上述两个区域障碍层变化存在关联, 季节内和准半年周期的赤道纬向风驱动的波动过程是它们存在联系的根本原因。赤道东印度洋地区的西风(东风)强迫出向东传的下沉(上升)的Kelvin波, 在苏门答腊岛西岸转变为沿岸Kelvin波向北传到孟加拉湾的东边界和北边界, 并且在缅甸的伊洛瓦底江三角洲顶部(95°E, 16°N)激发出向西的Rossby波, 造成湾内等温层深度的正(负)异常, 波动传播的速度决定了湾内的变化过程滞后于赤道区域1~2个月。     

太平洋副热带东部模态水的年际变化及机制研究

根据2004—2014年的全球海洋Argo网格数据集(BOA_Argo)和ECMWF ERA-Interim再分析资料,计算了冬季太平洋副热带东部海区的水团变性率及水团形成率,对南北太平洋副热带东部新生成模态水的年际变化及其形成机制进行了研究。结果表明:北太平洋副热带东部模态水(NPESTMW)和南太平洋副热带东部模态水(SPESTMW)的新生成体积及核心密度在2004—2014年具有明显的年际变化:NPESTMW主要经历了2005—2009年和2010—2013年2次持续4～5a的体积和密度增加过程,其中体积最大值出现在2009年,最小值则出现在2005和2014年。南半球SPESTMW则经历了2007—2009年和2010—2013年共两次持续3～4a的体积和密度减小过程,其中体积的最小值出现在2009、2013年,最大值出现在2010年。合成分析发现,由冬季海面热通量异常引起的深混合层内与模态水密度相当的水团表层形成率异常,可能是导致NPESTMW和SPESTMW新生成水体积年际变化的重要因素;同时,SPESTMW新生成水的年际变化受局地风应力旋度的年际变化影响明显。     

太平洋东边界波浪输运

通过计算2000年涌浪指标(swell index)的全球分布,发现太平洋东边界赤道附近区域存在涌浪池.利用ECMWF再分析波浪资料,计算出2000年全球月平均波浪体积输运.比较2000年全球月平均波浪体积输运和2000年QUICKSCAT月平均风场,发现在赤道太平洋东边界涌浪池区域内的波浪输运方向和风向存在很大的差别,两者方向相差大约90°.这进一步验证了该地区涌浪池存在的真实性.研究发现,赤道太平洋东边界涌浪主要来源于北太平洋和南太平洋的西风带对应的海区.在涌浪池区域内分别在2.5°S和2.5°N取两条边界(边界起点为125°W,终点为美洲大陆西边界),计算通过这两条边界进入赤道区域涌浪的Stokes体积净输运量.结果表明,不同月份通过南、北两条边界波浪的净输运量与当月南、北太平洋西风带的风浪强度密切相关.同时指出了,涌浪的体积输运将会对大洋环流系统产生潜在的重要影响.     

Inter-season and interannual variations in fish and macrocrustacean community structure on a eastern English Channel sandy beach: Influence of environmental factors

The intertidal zone of an exposed sandy beach on the French coast of the English Channel was sampled with a 1.5 m beam-trawl over five years (2000 and 2003–2006) at weekly intervals. The fish and macrocrustacean catches were analysed to determine the inter-season and interannual variation in community structure and relate these variations to changes in the major environmental variables. Only six species (plaice Pleuronectes platessa, common goby Pomatoschistus microps, sprat Sprattus sprattus, sand eel Ammodytes tobianus, brown shrimp Crangon crangon and shore crab Carcinus maenas) from the 27 species captured can be considered as dominant species of the intertidal zone, and they accounted for >90% of total numbers. Most individuals caught were young-of-the-year or juvenile. Analysis of similarities (ANOSIM) and similarities percentage (SIMPER) indicated that inter-season variability of community structure (mean average similarity = 47%) was more pronounced than interannual variability (mean average similarity = 65%). Canonical correspondence analysis (CCA) indicates that a substantial component (32.2%) of the measured inter-season variation in community structure can be explained by environmental factors (mainly water temperature). The main inter-season changes in the abundance and community structure were due to the variation of the six key species and reflect the different times of their recruitment. During the five years of the study, the structure of the fish and macrocrustacean spring community persisted from year to year, with the dominant species reappearing consistently even though their abundances fluctuated from year to year. This interannual variation probably reflects variable recruitment success influenced by physico-chemical conditions. In spite of the considerable interannual variation (40 times) in the spring bloom of the prymnesiophyte alga Phaeocystis globosa we found no effect of this bloom on either fish and macrocrustacean species densities or diversity index.     

Isotopic tracers for water masses in the coastal region of eastern Hokkaido

In this study we used two stable isotopes, δ¹³C and δ¹⁸O, for water mass classification in the coastal region off eastern Hokkaido. δ¹³C* values, which were corrected for the biological effect, and δ ¹⁸O values up to 300 m depth suggested that the isotopic character of the onshore and offshore water in the southern Okhotsk Sea, the Nemuro Strait and the western North Pacific could be explained by the mixing of three source waters: the Oyashio water (OYW), Soya Warm Current water (SWCW) and East Sakhalin Current water (ESCW). In summer, δ ¹³C*-δ ¹⁸O plots indicated mixing between SWCW from the southern Okhotsk Sea and OYW in the Pacific coast of southeastern Hokkaido, while temperature-salinity plots of the onshore water showed minimal difference from the offshore OYW. In winter, on the other hand, the mixed water of ESCW and OYW (or SWCW) appeared in the Pacific coastal region, distributed as cold, low salinity onshore water. Finally, we estimated mixing ratios of OYW, SWCW and ESCW in the coastal region of western North Pacific using their mean values of δ ¹³C* and δ ¹⁸O as endmembers. These results suggest seasonal and yearly changes of water mass combination en route from the southern Okhotsk Sea to the western North Pacific.     

The mapping methods and division of tectonic units of the regional tectonic map in the eastern China seas and adjacent regions

The geological-geophysical map series of the eastern China seas and adjacent region (1:1 000 000) will be published in the late half year of 2009. The regional tectonic map is one of the main professional maps. The Mapping methods, the division method of geological tectonic units and the main geological tectonic units are mainly discussed. The strata from Pliocene to Holocene are peeled off so as to display the Pre-Pliocene structures. In basins, isopaches are drawn for the Cenozoic deposits. The plate tectonic theory and present tectonic pattern are adopted as the priorities in tectonic division. As to the division of intraplate tectonic units, it is a revision, complement and improvement of previous dividing systems, and the nomenclature for each tectonic unit follows the current system in China. The first-order tectonic unit is plate (Pacific Plate, Eurasian Plate and Philippine Sea Plate). The second-order tectonic unit is tectonic domain (East Asian continental tectonic domain,East Asian continental margin tectonic domain and west Pacific tectonic domain). The Philippine Sea Plate and the west part of the Pacific Plate are called the West Pacific tectonic domain. The part of the Eurasian Plate involved in this study area can be further divided into East Asian continental tectonic domain and East Asian continental margin tectonic domain. The East Asian continental margin domain is composed of the Ryukyu island arc, the Okinawa Trough back-arc basin and the back-arc basin of Sea of Japan. The East Asian continental tectonic domain in this study area is composed of the Sino-Korea Massif, the Changjiang River (Yangtze) Massif and South China Massif. In turn, these massifs consist of basins, folded belts or uplift zones. The basins,the folded belts or the uplift zones are further divided into uplifts and depressions made up of sags and swells.     

南海东部深海沉积中的孢粉研究及其古环境意义

通过对南海东部 149 站深海柱状剖面的孢粉、藻类研究,根据孢粉成分的变化将该孔沉积层从下至上划分为 4 个孢粉组合带.1 带:Pinus-Quercus(常绿)-Umbellferae-Gramineae-Pteris 孢粉带(407～270cm);2 带:Dacrydium-Quercus-Cyathea-Pinus-Polypodiaceae 孢粉带(270～105 cm);3 带:Pinus-Polypodiaceae-Quercus(常绿)-Pteridium 孢粉带(105～30 cm);4 带:Gleditsia-Cyathea-Pinus-Polypodiaceae 孢粉带(30～0 cm).并相应恢复了南海东部 7.5 万 a 以来 4 个植被、气候、古环境演替阶段:热带北缘半常绿季雨林、热带季雨林、热带北缘半常绿季雨林和热带季雨林.结合氧同位素测年资料,对 149 站柱状地层时代作了划分.     

南北半球副热带高压对赤道东太平洋海温变化的响应

本文利用1974年1月到1996年12月重分析(NOAANCEP-NCARCDAS-1)全球500hPa位势高度场资料,及同期赤道太平洋各海区SST资料,研究了南北半球副热带高压的变化特征及其对赤道东太平洋SST变化的响应。结果表明,全球副热带高压的变化及对SST的响应,在南北两个半球有很好的一致性。全球副热带高压强度的变化与超前3个月SST的正相关最为显着。对SST响应最强烈的区域主要在南北纬30°之间的低纬,低纬地区局地SST对副热带高压也有强烈的影响。从10°到30°纬度,对SST的响应分别落后于赤道2～9个月。在中、高纬大气环流的响应表现为波列特征,对暖SST及冷SST的响应波列基本相反,但对暖SST的响应更为显着。海温和副热带高压的月际持续性有明显的季节变化,副热带高压9-10月的相关障碍可能与NinoC区SST8-9月的相关障碍低点有关。     

厦门岛东海岸的蚀退与防护

根据波浪输沙和地形对比，对厦门岛东部海岸的岸滩侵蚀动态及演变趋势进行探讨，并根据其海岸特点提出相应的防护对策。