斜向不规则波入、反射波分离的实验研究

斜向入射的不规则波在海岸结构物前发生反射形成入、反射波共存的波浪场,对这种物理场的入、反射波的分离是海岸工程研究的一个重要课题.改进了一种可用于斜向入射的不规则波分离的两点法,使得测波阵列的两波高仪可布置在结构物前任何方向上.将此方法应用于三维波浪水池的物理模型试验研究,试验了不同的两波高仪的组合、不同的基床高度、不同的入射方向和不同的波浪要素等各种条件对分离结果的影响,结果表明,各种情况在满足非奇异条件下可得到较好的分离结果.该方法计算简便,可以给出较准确的反射系数和入、反射波的频谱.     

Hydrodynamic Coefficients for Grouping Piles Under the Action of Irregular Waves

-The hydrodynamic coefficients for each of two piles and three piles in both side-by-side arrangement and tandem arrangement under the action of irregular waves are experimentally investigated. These coefficients vary with the KC number, the relative pile spacing, the number of piles and the pile location, and their relationships are presented in this paper. They can be used in Morison Equation and other equations to calculate directly the in-line wave forces and the transverse forces on each pile in array.     

非线性随机海浪模型的一种新形式

以反映随机海浪非线性的波面高度分布高阶矩为参量，提出一种新形式的非线性随机海浪模型，在三阶近似下具体导出其波面高度的表达工和推导出二阶谱。本文模式为Ｌｏｎｇｕｅｔ－Ｈｇｇｉｎｓ模式的另一种新的数学表示。     

Wave-height distributions and nonlinear effects

Theoretical distributions proposed for describing the crest-to-trough heights of linear waves are reviewed briefly. To explore the effects of nonlinearities, these are generalized to second-order waves, utilizing quasi-deterministic results on the expected shape of large waves. The efficacy of Gram–Charlier models in describing the effects of third-order nonlinearities on the distributions of wave heights, crests and troughs are examined in detail. All models and a fifth-order Stokes–Rayleigh type model recently proposed are compared with linear and nonlinear waves simulated from the JONSWAP spectrum representative of long-crested extreme seas, and also with oceanic data gathered in the North Sea. Uncertainties arising from the variability of probability estimates derived from sample populations of limited size are considered. Ultimately, the comparisons show that nonlinearities do not have any discernable effect on the crest-to-trough heights of oceanic waves. Most of the linear models considered yield similar and reasonable predictions of the observed data trends. Gram–Charlier type distributions seem neither effective nor particularly useful in describing the statistics of large wave heights or crests under oceanic conditions. However, they do surprisingly well in predicting unusually large wave heights and crests observed in some 2D wave-flume experiments and 3D numerical simulations of long-crested narrow-band random waves.     

Wave Dispersion Study in the Indian Ocean-Tsunami of December 26, 2004

A numerical study which takes into account wave dispersion effects has been carried out in the Indian Ocean to reproduce the initial stage of wave propagation of the tsunami event that occurred on December 26, 2004. Three different numerical models have been used: the nonlinear shallow water (nondispersive), the nonlinear Boussinesq, and the full Navier-Stokes aided by the volume of fluid method to track the free surface. Numerical model results are compared against each other. General features of the wave propagation agreed very well in all numerical studies. However some important differences are observed in the wave patterns, i.e., the development in time of the wave front is shown to be strongly connected to the dispersion effects. Discussions and conclusions are made about the spatial and temporal distribution of the free surface reaffirming that the dispersion mechanism is important for tsunami hazard mitigation.     

The retrieval of the nonlinear random waves from the non-Gaussian characteristics of the sea surface elevation distribution

In this paper, without recourse to the nonlinear dynamical equations of the waves, the nonlinear random waves are retrieved from the non-Gaussian characteristic of the sea surface elevation distribution. The question of coincidence of the nonlinear wave profile, spectrum and its distributions of maximum (or minimum) values of the sea surface elevation with results derived from some existing nonlinear theories is expounded under the narrow-band spectrum condition. Taking the shoaling sea wave as an example, the nonlinear random wave process and its spectrum in shallow water are retrieved from both the non-Gaussian characteristics of the sea surface elevation distribution in shallow water and the normal sea waves in deep water and compared with the values actually measured. Results show that they can coincide with the actually measured values quite well, thus, this can confirm that the method proposed in this paper is feasible.     

北部湾沿岸海区设计波浪的确定

本文基于北部湾沿岸海区多年的实测资料，于不同海区主浪向和次主浪向分别取年极值波高为样本资料．采用Ｐ－Ⅲ型和短期测波资料频率分析方法，分别估算了各海区不同重现期的设计波高，并依据式（１）计算出相应的平均周期。尽管样本资料和估算方法不变，但每次估算的结果互不相同，其差异甚至很大．利用Ｋｏｌｍｏｇｏｒｏｆｆ等适合度方法检验所得的结果，能够准确地判断出沿岸各海区不同重现期的最佳设计波浪。     

Preliminary study on the dynamic mechanism of the deep equatorial jets

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Verification of linear theory for particle velocities in wind waves based on field measurements

Analyses are presented of field measurements of spectral transfer functions between surface elevation and subsurface three-dimensional particle velocity in wind-generated waves, in conditions ranging from young seas to old swells. The results are in agreement with the linear theory predictions to within the measurement error margin, which is estimated to be ± 5% for the gain functions and ± 4° in phase as far as the possible systemic errors are concerned. No correlation is found of the degree of agreement between measurements and linear theory with wave age or wave sleepness.     

Multidirectional wave transformation around detached breakwaters

The performance of the new wave diffraction feature of the shallow-water spectral model SWAN, particularly its ability to predict the multidirectional wave transformation around shore-parallel emerged breakwaters is examined using laboratory and field data. Comparison between model predictions and field measurements of directional spectra was used to identify the importance of various wave transformation processes in the evolution of the directional wave field. First, the model was evaluated against laboratory measurements of diffracted multidirectional waves around a breakwater shoulder. Excellent agreement between the model predictions and measurements was found for broad frequency and directional spectra. The performance of the model worsened with decreasing frequency and directional spread. Next, the performance of the model with regard to diffraction–refraction was assessed for directional wave spectra around detached breakwaters. Seven different field cases were considered: three wind–sea spectra with broad frequency and directional distributions, each coming from a different direction; two swell–sea bimodal spectra; and two swell spectra with narrow frequency and directional distributions. The new diffraction functionality in SWAN improved the prediction of wave heights around shore-parallel breakwaters. Processes such as beach reflection and wave transmission through breakwaters seem to have a significant role on transformation of swell waves behind the breakwaters. Bottom friction and wave–current interactions were less important, while the difference in frequency and directional distribution might be associated with seiching.