废黄河口海岸近期侵蚀特征与机理

苏北废黄河三角洲经历了150多a的侵蚀演变过程,目前仍处在侵蚀演变中.据2007-08和2008-07废黄河口附近断面调查结果显示,沉积类型出现粗化趋势,10 m以浅的浅水区,砂粒含量达60%以上,平均粒径达0.06 mm,物质粗化显著,岸滩呈现了强烈的波蚀作用;10 m以深至15 m的深水区,泥粒含量增多,平均粒径为...     

A GIS-based step-wise procedure for assessing physical exposure in fragmented archipelagos

Wind and waves are major forces affecting the geomorphology and biota in coastal areas. We present a generally applicable method for measuring and calculating fetch length, fetch direction and wave exposure. Fetch length and direction, measured by geographic information system-based methods, are used along with wind direction and wind speed data to estimate wave height and period by applying forecasting curves. The apparent power of waves approaching the shore, used as a proxy for wave exposure, is then calculated by a linear wave model. We demonstrate our method by calculating fetch lengths and wave exposure indices for five areas with varying exposure levels and types of meteorological conditions in the Finnish Archipelago Sea, situated in the northern Baltic Sea. This method is a rapid and accurate means of estimating exposure, and is especially applicable in areas with geomorphologically varying and complicated shorelines. We expect that our method will be useful in several fields, such as basic biogeographical and biodiversity research, as well as coastal land-use planning and management.     

Response of the barrier island coastal region of southwestern Nigeria to climate and non-climate forcing

Despite threats emanating from the influence of climate and non-climate forcing on the barrier island coastal region of southwestern Nigeria, the extent of the coastal erosion is poorly understood. We report evidence of coastal erosion and sediment accumulation in the region over a 34-year period (1973–2017), using Landsat imagery at intervals of approximately six years. Landsat image corrections and various water-extraction algorithms were used to systematically delineate coastal erosion and accumulation in the area. The region was subdivided into western and eastern subregions separated by Lagos Harbour. In the west, erosion took place during the periods 1973–1979, 1979–1984, 1990–1999 and 2005–2011, whereas in the east, erosion occurred during 1973–1979, 1990–1999 and 1999–2005. Coastal sediment accumulation occurred in the east during 1979–1984, 1984–1990, 2005–2011 and 2011–2017, whereas gains in the west occurred during 1984–1990, 1999–2005 and 2011–2017. The study revealed substantial net erosion of 1 228.1 ha in the region as a whole, over the full period. Sediment accumulation accompanying the coastal erosion appears to be linked to longshore drift. Erosion between 1973 and 2011 was probably attributable to climate change (storms and tidal conditions), longshore drift, the inflow and outflow of water at Lagos Harbour, coastal morphology and, possibly, human impacts. However, the coastal changes between 2011 and 2017 were more obviously associated with human activities, such as development of the Eko Atlantic construction project. Coastal surveillance, together with the use of environmentally sensitive protective measures, could possibly help to reduce coastal erosion in the region. Careful coastal management practices, including artificial nourishing and the installation of resilient structures (e.g. seawalls), should be undertaken to protect human settlements that are already at risk from sea-level rise.     

日本海岸工程研究进展——第52回日本海岸工学讲演会介绍

介绍了日本第52回海岸工学讲演会的概况,从海岸灾害、海岸生态环境、波浪与水流、海岸泥沙运动与地形变化、海岸建筑物等5个方面综述了日本海岸工程研究的进展情况。     

风暴潮灾害情景下海岸带暴露指数时空演变研究——以福建省东山湾为例

暴露指数反映了环境在面对极端天气事件时承受灾害的潜在风险程度。研究利用遥感影像数据、数字高程数据(DEM)、海洋水深及风力数据等, 基于暴露指数模型, 以福建省东山湾为案例研究区域, 对风暴潮灾害情景下的海岸带暴露指数及其时空演变进行分析。研究结果显示: (1)近十年来, 东山湾海岸带暴露指数总体呈下降趋势, 潜在风险程度为“中”及以上区域占比由67.14%下降至59.06%, 海岸带在面对风暴潮灾害等极端天气事件时潜在的风险程度总体降低, 海湾地貌类型差异及其形态变化是影响东山湾暴露指数产生波动的主要原因; (2)基于暴露指数评价结果, 结合海岸带开发利用现状, 研究可对东山湾海岸带生态环境的敏感区域进行识别, 并制定具有针对性的开发利用与风险防范对策, 为海岸带空间规划、生态保护修复格局的科学划定提供理论支撑, 在助力海岸带陆海统筹和可持续发展上具有重要意义; (3)研究提出的一种基于时间序列的暴露指数研究技术路线和框架, 可为海岸带脆弱性评估、海岸带韧性评估、海岸带灾害监测预警等相关研究提供新的研究视角, 在基于深度学习的海岸带灾害风险预警与灾害模拟等方面也具有较为广阔的应用前景。     

A Numerical Model of Coastal Processes of Sand Beaches Based on Long-Term Wave Series

A numerical model of shoreline change of sand beaches based on long-term field wave data is proposed, the explicit and implicit finite difference forms of the model are described, and an application of the model is presented. Results of the application indicate that the model is sensitive to the order of the input wave data, and that the effects of long-term wave series and the effects of the mean annual wave conditions on the model are different. Instead of a single wave condition, the wave series will make the calibration and the verification of the model more practical and the results of the model more reasonable.     

Descriptive Analysis and Classification of Benthic Communities in Some Mediterranean Coastal Lagoons (Central Italy)

Abstract. Benthic samples were taken seasonally at 32 stations in five coastal lagoons of Central Italy (Fogliano, Monaci, Caprolace, Fondi, and Lungo) during a two-year period (1982–1984). Composition and distribution of benthic populations in each lagoon as well as seasonal trends of species richness, density, diversity, and redundancy are presented and discussed.
The faunal differentiation appeared to be mainly due to the different degree of water exchange, both with marine and continental systems.     

基于云模型的海岸脆弱性评估 ——以厦门岛为例

脆弱性评估很大程度上存在着模糊性和随机性,为有效解决评估过程中定性概念与评估指标按隶属函数定量描述这一不确定转换问题,本文基于云理论本文选取海岸地貌、海岸高程、海岸坡度、海岸缓冲能力、有效波高、道路价值和建筑价值为指标,构建了厦门岛海岸脆弱性评估指标体系,运用云模型评估手段定量测度了厦门岛海岸脆弱性空间分异特征。评估结果与客观情况比较吻合,检验了指标体系的合理性和评估模型的适用性。本文提出了海岸脆弱性综合评估模型,实用有效,可以推广到与厦门岛类似的区域,为海岸管理及规划提供科学指导。     

江苏沿海地区海洋渔业发展差异与对策

江苏是海洋大省,但并非海洋强省,2005年海洋渔业在全国处于第6位,为浙江和山东的1/3和1/5。江苏具有发展海洋渔业的有利条件,丰富的水产资源和滩涂资源适合发展海洋渔业,发达的地区经济为渔业发展提供了技术支撑。从省内区域差异来看,渔业过分集中于如东、启东等少数县市,多数县市产业优势未能充分发挥。应该大力发展海水增养业、加强养殖区域生态环境保护,积极发展相关海洋产业。