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961.
measurements by a circular array consisting of 18 wave gauges in a large wave tank, directional spectra of wind-generated waves in deep water are systematically determined by using maximum likelihood method The investigations reveal that the angular spreading of the wave energy is consistent with cos2s(θ/2) proposed by Longuet-Higgins et al.(1963, Ocean Wave Spectra, 111-136), if the bimodal distributions of wave energy are not taken into account. Bimodality occurring on higher frequency than peak frequency is too rare to affect our whole resalts. Surprisingly, a much broader directional spreading than that of the field, which is interpreted by the strongly nonlinear energy transfer because of the very young waves in laboratory, is found. The parameter s depends on frequency in the same way as observed by Mitsuyasu et al.(1975, Journal of Physical Oceanography, 5, 750-760) and Hasselmann et al.(1980, Journal of Physical Oceanography, 10, 1264-1280) in the field, and the relationship between the four nondimensional parameters sm, fo, b1 and b2, determining the directional width, and ū10 (corresponding to the inverse of wave age) are given respectively. The observed distributions are found to agree well with the suggestion of Donelan et al.(1985, Philosophical Transaction of Royal Society of London, A315, 509-562) when applied to field waves. 相似文献
962.
在台风风暴增水过程中,风应力占主要作用,气压项的作用要上对较小,许多风暴潮预报模式中气压项被忽略。本文在建立台湾海峡风暴潮预报模型的基础上峄台风气压项作用进行了模拟,结果发现在台湾海峡狭长的海域内,台风气压项的作用表现得较为特殊,在台风风暴潮模拟过程中,应考虑其贡献及大小。 相似文献
963.
964.
The propagation,shoaling and breaking of solitary waves on mild slopes are simulated byboundary element method.In this paper,the criterion of breaking solitary waves on mild slopes is discussed.The criterion is that the ratio of horizontal velocity of water particles on the wave crest to wave celerity equalsone.However,the case that the ratio of horizontal velocity of water particles on the wave crest to wave ce-lerity is below one but the front face of wave profile becomes vertical is also considered as a breaking criteri-on.According to the above criteria,the breaking index for slopes 1:10 to 1:25 is studied.The result is com-pared to other researchers'.The deformation of solitary waves on slopes is discussed and the distribution offluid velocities at breaking is shown. 相似文献
965.
Nelson pointed out that the wave breaking criterion(H/d)_b for gentle slopes(i<1/100),inwhich H is the wave height and d is the water depth at the breaking point,is smaller than that for beachslopes of i>1/100),i.e.,the value of(H/d)_b for gentle slopes may be smaller than 0.6.Goda indicatedthat the wave breaking criterion given by himself is a result based on theoretical study,so it should be alsocorrect and can be used for gentle beaches,i.e.,the value of(H/d)_b for gentle slopes may be still largerthan 0.7.By use of high order nonlinear wave theory,this problem is analyzed in this study and the reasonwhy there is a large difference between different studies is explained.Moreover,the bottom energy loss dur-ing wave propagation is considered and the critical slope for the absence of wave breaking is also analyzed. 相似文献
966.
Multiple-Step Predictive Control for Offshore Structures 总被引:13,自引:0,他引:13
—Ocean wave propagation is slow,visible and measurable,so a wave theory can be used to approxi-mately predict the imminnent wave force on an offshore structure based on measured,real-time wave elevation nearthe structure.This predictability suggests the development of a more efficient algorithm,than those that have beendeveloped for structures under wind and seismic loads,for the active vibration control of offshore structures.Thepresent study delveops a mutiple-step predictive optimal control(MPOC)algorithm that accounts for multiple-step external loading in the determibation of optimal control forces.The control efficiency of the newly developedMPOC algorithm has been investigated under both regular(single-frequency)and irregular(multiple-frequency)wave loads,and compared with that of two other well-known optimal control algorithms:classical linear optimalcontrol(CLOC)and instantaneou optimal control(IOC). 相似文献
967.
Probability distributions of wave phases in association with distributions of surface elevations arestudied with wave records.Wave records of different nature are used for comparison.These are surface fluc-tuations acquired during wind wave flume experiments,representing wave generation under strong wind:andwave records measured in the northern part of Taiwan for waves in natural environments.Three probabilitymodels,the unifrom distribution,the beta distribution,and a model from Tayfun and Lo(1989)are adoptedto study the possible distributions of wave phases.It is found that when surface elevations become skewed,wave phases deviate from the usually assumed uniform distribution and a better model would be the beta dis-tribution. 相似文献
968.
星载合成孔径雷达海浪图像谱仿真研究 总被引:4,自引:0,他引:4
利用Hasselm ann 的完全非线性积分方法对文氏海浪谱的星载合成孔径雷达(SAR)图像谱进行了仿真研究。结果表明: (1) 在星载SAR海浪成像过程中, 速度聚束调制远比水动力调制、倾斜调制和距离向聚束调制重要;(2) 图像谱有180°的方向模糊和方位向的高波数截断,距离向传播海浪的图像谱存在双峰现象; (3) 不同极化方式和雷达视向的选取对图像谱无明显影响, 因而对于海浪的星载SAR遥感而言, 可以采用单一极化和单一视向。对于不同成长状态的风浪而言, 以上结果保持不变。 相似文献
969.
水下圆形浅滩附近波浪绕射的计算 总被引:2,自引:0,他引:2
采用波数矢量无旋和波能守恒方程对圆形浅滩附近水域波浪绕射进行了数值计算,计算模型中采用Battjes关系与波数矢量无旋,波能量守恒方程一起联合求解圆形浅滩附近水域波浪折射影响下的波浪要素。本文的数值计算模型对圆形浅滩水域波浪折射绕射现象的验证结果表明,计算所得结果与试验结果是吻合的,数学模型是可靠和合理的,具有实用价值。 相似文献
970.
本文主要论述了摆式波力电站的吸能机制,提出了吸能原理,从力和作功的角度探讨了吸能的实质,分析比较了几种摆板运动方程形式之间的联系和区别。给出了波能转换效率的定义,并进一步分析了波能转换效率的组成和性质。 相似文献