Nonlinear progressive waves in water of finite depth — an analytic approximation

An analytical solution using homotopy analysis method is developed to describe the nonlinear progressive waves in water of finite depth. The velocity potential of the wave is expressed by Fourier series and the nonlinear free surface boundary conditions are satisfied by continuous mapping. Unlike the perturbation method, the present approach is not dependent on small parameters. Thus solutions are possible for steep waves. Furthermore, a significant improvement of the convergence rate and region is achieved by applying Homotopy-Padé Approximants. The calculated wave characteristics of the present solution agree well with previous numerical and experimental results.     

Determination of Shaft Capacity for Pile under Cyclic Axial Loading in Clay

For load-controlled and displacement-controlled test data of piles cyclically axially loaded in clay, the displacement conditions are suggested for determining the shaft capacity. According to the suggested displacement conditions, not only the results of shaft capacity from laboratory model piles are close to those from in-situ piles, but also the results of load-controlled tests are in satisfactory agreement with those of displacement-controlled tests. Moreover, based on the test data of laboratory model piles in combination with the test data published, the paper suggests the values of the normalized shaft capacity of piles under a variety of static and cyclic loading combinations.     

穿透性太阳短波辐射对混合层深度的影响

用数值方法研宄穿透性太阳短波辐射对混合层深度的影响时,有些学者人为地设定了风速和热通量。这种做法可能会出现风速和热通量数值不匹配的问题。为了弥补这一缺陷,本文采用国内外常用的块体公式计算热通量的方法来代替人为设置,并以北太平洋为例,研究了穿透性太阳短波辐射对海洋混合层深度的影响。结果表明:低风速(U10<10m／s),且海表短波净辐射处于40～200 W／m2时,穿透性太阳短波辐射对混合层深度影响很显著;高风速(U10>10m／s)和短波净辐射高值区(S*(0)>200 W／m2),穿透性太阳短波辐射对混合层深度的影响较小。     

Transformation of Wave Energy Spectrum in Shallow Water

- Combined with irregular wave-maker, the growing process of Wave Energy Spectrum in shallow water can be studied in wind wave channel on different water depth conditions, and its transformation characteristics and rules can be obtained.     

关于波浪破碎特性的研究

有关波浪破碎问题的研究是海岸工程界十分关注的课题。本文列举了前人有关波浪破碎特性方面的研究成果；分析了波浪破碎前后波高的变化规律，作出了适当的假定；并考虑了动床海滩坡度、底摩擦以及紊动对波浪破碎特性的影响。应用波动能量耗散率理论，并结合孤立波理论的有关公式，作者推导了计算动床海滩上破碎指标ｒ_ｂ的公式，并进而给出破碎水深ｈ_ｂ与破碎波高Ｈ_ｂ的计算公式。通过不同规模实验水槽的资料验证表明，这组计算式具有广泛的实用性。     

High-Order Models of Nonlinear and Dispersive Wave in Water of Varying Depth with Arbitrary Sloping Bottom

High-order models with a dissipative term for nonlinear and dispersive wave in water of va-rying depth with an arbitrary sloping bottom are presented in this article.First,the formal derivations toany high order of μ(=h/λ,depth to deep-water wave length ratio)and ε(=α/h,wave amplitude todepth ratio)for velocity potential,particle velocity vector,pressure and the Boussinesq-type equations forsurface elevation η and horizontal velocity vector U at any given level in water are given.Then,the exactexplicit expressions to the fourth order of μ are derived.Finally,the linear solutions of η,U,C(phase ce-lerity)and C_g(group velocity)for a constant water depth are obtained.Compared with the Airy theory,excellent results can be found even for a water depth as large as the wave legnth.The present high-ordermodels are applicable to nonlinear regular and irregular waves in water of any varying depth(from shal-low to deep)and bottom slope(from mild to steep).     

渤海中部海域海底热扩散率及恒温层深度研究

利用渤海中部海域泥温实测资料，计算出该海域海底热扩散率及恒温层深度。结果表明，８＃平台处的热扩散率为０．００１～０．００５ｃｍ２ｓ－１，Ａ（Ｂ）平台处为０．００２～０．０１０ｃｍ２ｓ－１。恒温层深度８＃平台处为８ｍ，Ａ（Ｂ）平台处１０ｍ，也有差异。与陆地比较，海底恒温层深度较浅，且水深越深恒温层深度越浅。     

中太平洋北部海盆沉积物中钙质超微化石溶解相与地层年代

本文通过对中太平洋北部海盆表层和柱状沉积物中钙质超微化石的分析鉴定,讨论了该调查区处在溶跃面以下表层沉积物中钙质超微化石的种数与水深变化的关系,推测出本调查区中Ⅰ区的碳酸盐补偿深度约5300米。根据地层中出现的标准化石,对柱状岩芯M_(14)进行了地层年代划分。最上部地层年代约为27万年前,向下1米处年代约为44万年前,3.66米处年代约为122万年前。     

东海2万年来碳酸盐溶解作用变化:翼足类的记录

对东海84个表层沉积样品和5个重力柱状样中的翼足类和浮游有孔虫丰度、浮游有孔虫碎壳率和底栖有孔虫群中胶结质类的比例等进行了定量分析,确定了东海现代文石补偿深度（ACD）位于约600 m处,碳酸盐溶跃面在约1 400 m处.末次冰期时随着碳酸盐溶解作用的显著减弱,ACD大幅度下降至现代的1 000 m之下.     

Prediction of breaking waves with neural networks

The height of a wave at the time of its breaking, as well as the depth of water in which it breaks, are the two basic parameters that are required as input in design exercises involving wave breaking. Currently the designers obtain these values with the help of graphical procedures and empirical equations. An alternative to this in the form of a neural network is presented in this paper. The networks were trained by combining the existing deterministic relations with a random component. The trained network was validated with the help of fresh laboratory observations. The validation results confirmed usefulness of the neural network approach for this application. The predicted breaking height and water depth were more accurate than those obtained traditionally through empirical schemes. Introduction of a random component in network training was found to yield better forecasts in some validation cases.