An unsteady wave driver for narrowbanded waves: modeling nearshore circulation driven by wave groups

In this paper, we derive an unsteady refraction–diffraction model for narrowbanded water waves for use in computing coupled wave–current motion in the nearshore. The end result is a variable coefficient, nonlinear Schrödinger-type wave driver (describing the envelope of narrow-banded incident waves) coupled to forced nonlinear shallow water equations (describing steady or unsteady mean flows driven by the short-wave field). Comparisons with experimental data show that good accuracy can be obtained for cases of nonbreaking wave transformation. Numerical simulations show that the interaction of wave groups with longshore topographic nonuniformities generates strong edge wave resonances, providing a generating mechanism for low-order edge waves.     

九州西侧海域129°E断面的流速和温盐结构特征

根据中、日合作黑潮调查研究期间（1987－1993年）在九州西侧海域获得的水文资料，计算了129°E断面的地转流速和流量。着重提出129°E断面北侧存在一支较稳定的西向流；分析这支西向流的去向，指出它是向对马暖流输送黑潮水的重要途径；给出了这支西向流及黑潮通过该断面的流速、流轴、流幅及流量的变化特征。     

任意曲线曲面上重磁位场转换的B样条函数法

提出用B样条函数求解曲线、曲面上重磁位场的向上延拓,水平、垂向导数计算,磁异常分量互换的方法。该方法的特点是:原理简明,程序通用性强,计算精度高。     

Vertical Sound Velocity Transition in the Coral Reef Core and Its Significance of Indicating Facies

On the basis of the sound velocity measurements of the coral reef core from Nanyong No.1 well of Yongshu Reef in the Nansha Islands,the paper studies the relations between the vertical sound velocity transition features in the coral reef core and the corresponding stratigraphic depositional facies change as well as stratigraphic gap of erosion,analyses the cause of the sound velocity transition,expounds the concrete process of the sea level change resulting in the stratigraphic gap of erosion and facies change in the coral reef and explains the relations between the vertical sound velocity transition in the coral reef core and the corresponding stratigraphic paleoclimate and the sea level change.This study is of important practical value and theoretical significance to the island and reef engineering construction and the acoustic logging for oil exploration in the reef limestone area as well as the paleoceanographic study of the marginal sea in the westerm Pacific Ocean.     

Estimation of Water Particle Velocities by Empirical Transfer Function

-In previous and this studies it appears that the linear and nonlinear wave theory can notaccurately and easily predict the water particle velocities.Therefore,different from the theoretical consider-ations,in this study we have attempted to determine the transfer function empirically.Laboratory experi-ments were performed under various wave conditions.The empirical formulas of the transfer function ofthe wave height,angular frequency and water particle velocity were obtained on the basis of these test databy dimensional analysis and regression analysis.In intermediate and deep water depth conditions,thetransfer function was only a function of a nondimensional parameter which is composed of the angular fre-quency,the depth of the velocity gauge under the still water level,water depth and the acceleration of grav-ity.Finally,the empirical formulas were compared with experimental data and observational data formpresent and Cavaleri's(1978)studies.The empirical formulas were found to be in sufficient correl     

近58a来影响和登陆浙江的热带气旋统计特征分析

本文利用1949-2006年热带气旋资料,对58a来影响和登陆浙江热带气旋的登陆位置、登陆时间的年际、月际和日变化、登陆后的移速及路径变化与降水中心分布的关系、登陆后维持和衰减情况等进行了统计分析.统计结果表明：影响和登陆浙江的热带气旋有较明显的年际、月际和日变化特征;登陆浙江的热带气旋陆上维持时间与登陆时的强度正相关,登陆后12h内热带气旋衰减较快;登陆后移向偏北分量大的或移速加快的热带气旋,主要降水区出现在路径右侧的可能性大.     

Estimating the geostrophic velocity obtained by HF radar observations in the upstream area of the Kuroshio

A method to extract geostrophic current in the daily mean HF radar data in the Kuroshio upstream region is established by comparison with geostrophic velocity determined from the along-track altimetry data. The estimated Ekman current in the HF velocity is 1.2% (1.5%) and 48° (38°)-clockwise rotated with respect to the daily mean wind in (outside) the Kuroshio. Furthermore, additional temporal smoothing is found necessary to remove residual ageostrophic currents such as the inertial oscillation. After removal of the ageostrophic components, the HF geostrophic velocity agrees well with that from the altimetry data with rms difference 0.14 (0.12) m/s in (outside) the Kuroshio.     

南海北部海区上层水体平均声速场的变化

对所收集到的南海北部海区的温度、盐度和深度历史资料进行了声速的计算、统计与分析,结果表明该海区上层水体的平均声速场有较明显的年际变化:表层声速的平面分布显示出沿岸水与外海水强弱交替变化的特征,声速等值线的走向几乎与岸线平行,等声速线的值自近岸向外海增加,大陆架外缘海区声速的水平梯度较大;下层声速的分布以环流和水体共同作用的形式出现,50m层声速平面分布的趋势除冬季与表层稍为相似外,其余季节与表层有明显的差别,春、夏季节50m层声速自西向东增加,而秋季与其表层分布相反,自近岸向外海减小;声速的垂直分布受海水升温与降温的影响显著,春、夏季表层海水升温,海表声速最大,声速自海表随深度的增加而减小;秋、冬季表层附近水层降温,声速稍偏低,普遍出现正梯度现象,最大声速移至表层以下的水层,这个深度随季节的改变而改变,随海区的不同而不同.该海区的平均声速有年波动现象,表层波幅最大,随深度的增加波幅变小,至100m水层其波动的位相几乎与表层相反.     

潮流沙脊的水力学问题探讨

借用河流水力学顺直河道中有两个次生横向环流的假说来解释潮流沙脊的成因，水槽实验和实际观察也支持了这一观点．正是这一次生的纵轴横向环流（即螺旋流）将泥沙从沟槽带向脊顶，建造了大致与潮流方向平行的潮流沙脊．根据底质粒度成份和分布特点．可分为粗底质沙脊和细底质沙脊两类．前者组成物质偏粗，底质分布为脊细槽粗，后者组成物质偏细，底质分布为脊粗槽细．这是因为影响颗粒起动流速的主导因素不同，前者以重力为主，后者以颗粒间粘结力为主．它们都反映沟槽中流速大于脊顶处流速．     

对提高导航型GPS定位精度之工作方法的探讨

论文主要介绍了导航型GPS坐标转换参数的计算方法和测量误差的改正方法。该方法的要点是通过实测多个公共点来计算坐标转换参数,以此获得较好的转换精度;并进一步对观测结果加以误差改正,从而提高其定位精度。