Modeling of coupled tide–wave–surge process in the Yellow Sea

A coupled wave–tide–surge model has been developed in this study in order to investigate the effect of the interactions among tides, storm surges, and wind waves. The coupled model is based on the synchronous dynamic coupling of a third-generation wave model, WAM cycle 4, and the two-dimensional tide–surge model. The surface stress, which is generated by interactions between wind and wave, is calculated by using the WAM model directly based on an analytical approximation of the results using the quasi-linear theory of wave generation. The changes in bottom friction are created by the interactions between waves and currents and calculated by using simplified bottom boundary layer model. In consequence, the combined wave–current-induced bottom velocity and effective bottom drag coefficient were increased in the shallow waters during the strong storm conditions.     

Dynamic analysis of a vertical plate exposed to breaking wave impact

From the experimental studies in recent years, it has become known that when a wave breaks directly on a vertical faced coastal structure, high magnitude impact pressures are produced. The theoretical and experimental studies show that the dynamic response of such structures under wave impact loading is closely dependent on the magnitude and duration of the load history. The dynamic analysis and design of a coastal structure can be succeeded provided the design load history for the wave impact is available. Since these types of data are very scarce, it is much more convenient to follow a method which is based on static analysis for the dynamic design procedure. Therefore, to facilitate the dynamic design of a vertical plate that is exposed to breaking wave impact, a multiplication factor called “dynamic magnification factor” is herein presented which is defined as the ratio of the maximum value of the dynamic response to that found by static analysis. The computational results of the present study show that the dynamic magnification factor is a useful ratio to transfer the results of static analysis to the dynamic design of a coastal plate for the maximum impact pressure conditions of p_max/γH₀≤18.     

Dynamic properties of green water event in the overtopping of extreme waves on a fixed dock

A statistical model is developed to predict wave overtopping volume and rate of extreme waves on a fixed deck. The probability density function for the volume and rate of overtopping water are formulated based on the truncated Weibull distribution with the assumption of local sinusoidal profile for small amplitude waves. Sensitivity to the wave nonlinearity parameter and deck clearance is discussed. The statistical model is compared to laboratory data of the instantaneous free surface elevation measured in front of a fixed deck, and overtopping volume and overtopping rate measured at the leading edge of the deck. The statistical theory compared well with the measured exceedance probability seaward of the deck. The model prediction of the exceedance probability of deck overtopping gave qualitatively good agreement for large overtopping values.     

Modelling of periodic wave transformation in the inner surf zone

In this paper, we analyse the ability of the nonlinear shallow-water (NSW) equations to predict wave distortion and energy dissipation of periodic broken waves in the inner surf zone. This analysis is based on the weak-solution theory for conservative equations. We derive a new one-way model, which applies to the transformation of non-reflective periodic broken waves on gently sloping beaches. This model can be useful to develop breaking-wave parameterizations (in particular broken-wave celerity expression) in both time-averaged wave models and time-dependent Boussinesq-type models. We also derive a new wave set-up equation which provides a simple and explicit relation between wave set-up and energy dissipation. Finally, we compare numerical simulations of both, the NSW model and the simplified one-way model, with spilling wave breaking experiments and we find a good agreement.     

The wave transformation and breaking phenomena in shallow water

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臭氧化消毒技术在海水消毒中的应用

本文从理论出发，通过大量的小型模拟实验，确立了海水流量、臭氧投加量、消毒时间三者的关系，从而制定了利用臭氧进行海水消毒净化工程的工艺流程。又经过实际工程的验证，其工艺流程是可行的，结果优于设计要求，从而创立了国内第一家利用臭氧进行海水消毒净化的优质工程，为沿海城镇以海水替代淡水提供了一个新的途径。     

Nonlinear coupled dynamic response of offshore Spar platforms under regular sea waves

Many innovative floating offshore structures have been proposed for cost effectiveness of oil and gas exploration and production in water depths exceeding one thousand meters in recent years. One such type of platform is the offshore floating Spar platform. The Spar platform is modelled as a rigid body with six degrees-of-freedom, connected to the sea floor by multi-component catenary mooring lines, which are attached to the Spar platform at the fairleads. The response dependent stiffness matrix consists of two parts (a) the hydrostatics provide restoring force in heave, roll and pitch, (b) the mooring lines provide the restoring force which are represented here by nonlinear horizontal springs. A unidirectional regular wave model is used for computing the incident wave kinematics by Airy’s wave theory and force by Morison’s equation. The response analysis is performed in time domain to solve the dynamic behavior of the moored Spar platform as an integrated system using the iterative incremental Newmark’s Beta approach. Numerical studies are conducted for sea state conditions with and without coupling of degrees-of-freedom.     

作用于平台桩腿的海冰屈曲破坏冰压力随机过程模型及其参数确定

冰对结构的作用过程是典型的随机过程。本文在冰压力过程为平稳过程的假设下，从渤海海冰对平台桩腿作用的大量实测冰压力数据中，选取了２１条冰屈曲破坏时的冰压力时程曲线，对它们进行谱分析后，得到了单点冰屈曲破坏的压力随机过程的谱密度，并确定了谱参数及其跟环境要素的关系，依据文献［１］中冰压力沿圆柱面的空间分布，建立了绕桩腿的冰压力随机场模型，并得到了作用于桩腿的总冰力随机过程及其谱密度。本文的研究成果为平台结构冰激随机振动和疲劳累积损伤分析提供了荷载基础     

河口Si输运过程研究

基于拉格朗日余流及其输运过程的一种三维空间弱非线性理论，进一步假定Ｓｉ在河口的无因次化学转移项量级为ｋ＾２，给出了Ｓｉ的长期输运方程。对于一种二维模型河口，数值求解了零阶天文潮，欧拉余流、斯托克斯漂移、拉格朗日余流和盐度的分布；分别计算了平均逼留时间为１３，３０，６０，１８０ｄ等所对应的Ｓｉ浓度分布；给出了Ｓｉ－ｓ相关图，讨论了河口中Ｓｉ的保守性问题。     

Simulation of wave power devices

Classical frequency and time domain models of a single degree of freedom wave power device are presented. In the time domain, a convolution integral is conventionally used to represent the fluid dynamic radiation force, characterised by added mass and damping in the frequency domain. This integral is replaced by an approximate ordinary differential equation (ODE) model which is faster and more convenient in simulations. A time domain model of the fluid dynamics of an oscillating water column (OWC) device is derived to illustrate the technique. Digital simulations of the OWC are used to compare the accuracy of the classical and ODE models. The simulation of the ODE model runs about six times as fast as the classical model based on convolution, yet characterises the fluid dynamics accurately.