Dynamic Response Behaviors of Upright Breakwaters Under Breaking Wave Impact

- The dynamic response behaviors of upright breakwaters under broken wave impact are analysed based on the mass-damper-spring dynamic system model. The effects of the mass, damping, stiffness, natural period, and impulse duration (or oscillation period) on the translation, rotation, sliding force, overturning moment, and corresponding dynamic amplifying factors are studied. It is concluded that the ampli-ying factors only depend on the ratio of the system natural period to impulse duration (or oscillation period) under a certain damping ratio. Moreover, the equivalent static approach to breakwater design is also discussed.     

波峰特征量的统计分布

本文在作者另文数值模拟得到的三维海浪基础上 ,进一步分析给出了三维波峰长度、高度及方向角度等特征量的统计分布。发现考虑海浪的方向性质后波峰分布不再是均匀连续的 ;波峰的长度分布受方向函数影响 ,方向分布越宽 ,波峰的平均长度越短 ,波峰的方向角分布越宽 ;波峰高度和长度在波峰高度较小时有很大的相关性 ,而在波峰高度很大时无关     

Effect of Sea Level Variation on Tidal Characteristic Values for the East China Sea

1 .IntroductionTheglobalairtemperatureroseabout 0 .5～ 0 .6°Coverthepast 2 0thcentury ,andtheglobalmeansealevelincreasedbyabout2 0cmduringtheperiod .Theregionalmeansealevelriseswiththerisingglobalmeansealevel.Zuoetal.( 1 997)indicatedthatthemeanrisingrateofabsolutemeansealevelalongtheChinacoastontheassumptionofunifiedisostaticdatumis 2mm a .Woodworth( 1 999)analyzedsealevelspanning 1 76 8tothepresentinLiverpool,andobtainedaseculartrendforheperiodupto 1 880of0 .39± 0 .1 7mm a ,andatrendfort…     

A Three-Point Method for Separating Incident and Reflected Waves over A Sloping Bed

This study presents a three-point method for separating incident and reflected waves to explain normally incident waves' propagating over a sloping bed. Linear wave shoaling is used to determine changes in wave amplitude and phase in response to variations of bathymetry. The wave reflection coefficient and incident amplitude are estimated from wave heights measured at three fixed wave gauges with unequal spacing. Sensitivity analysis demonstrates that the proposed method can predict the reflection and amplitude of waves over a sloping bed more accurately than the two-point method.     

层结流体中的非线性惯性重力内波

根据地球流体力学基本方程组,在密度垂直层结的情况下,引进行波坐标,研究非线性定形波在相平面上的几何拓扑结构。严格论证了不存在定形孤立波,并通过Ｈａｍｉｌｔｏｎ函数及其角作用变把行波系统化成最简形式,由此而得到非线性惯性重力内波的解析解。     

Topographic Effect of Izu Ridge on the Distribution of the North Pacific Intermediate Water South of Japan

The topographic effect of the Izu Ridge on the horizontal distribution of the North Pacific Intermediate Water (NPIW) south of Japan has been studied using observational data obtained by the Seisui-Maru of Mie University (Mie Univ. data) and those compiled by Japan Oceanographic Data Center (JODC data). Both data sets show that water of salinity less than 34.1 psu on potential density () surface of 26.8 is confined to the eastern side of the Izu Ridge, while water of salinity less than 34.2 psu is confined to the southern area over the Izu Ridge at a depth greater than 2000 m and to the southeastern area in the Shikoku Basin. It is also shown by T-S analysis of Mie Univ. data over the Izu Ridge that water of salinity less than 34.2 psu dominates south of 30°N, where the depth of the Izu Ridge is deeper than 2000 m and NPIW can intrude westward over the Izu Ridge. JODC data reveal that relatively large standard deviations of the salinity on surface of 26.7, 26.8 and 26.9 are detected along the mean current path of the Kuroshio and the Kuroshio Extension. Almost all of the standard deviations are less than 0.05 psu in other area with the NPIW, which shows that the time variation in the salinity can be neglected. This observational evidence shows that the topographic effect of the Izu Ridge on the horizontal distribution of the NPIW, which is formed east of 145°E by the mixing of the Kuroshio water and the Oyashio water, is prominent north of 30°N with a depth shallower than 2000 m.     

唐山南堡开发区排污海域沉积物中重金属含量的调查研究

本文从唐山南堡开发区污水排海工程建设的需要出发，对排污海域沉积物中Ｃｕ，Ｐｂ，Ｃｄ，Ｈｇ，Ｚｎ和Ｃｒ６种重金属的含量及分布特征进行了调查研究，为污水排海工程的建设及开发区沿海海洋环境保护提供了基础性研究资料。     

黄、东海毗邻海域悬浮体与水团的对应关系及影响因素

对黄、东海毗邻海域由陆架到深海的悬浮体进行了大量加密取样,获得了较准确的结果。给出了悬浮体含量及其三维分布,确定它们与水团及其边界有良好的对应关系。并从物源、动力和成因等解释了这种对应,提出了水团对悬浮体研究的重要意义。研究表明黑潮次—中层混合爬升水及其混合水形成悬浮体含量最低值区,横亘在陆架与深海之间,形成阻隔含有大部分悬浮体的陆架中、下层水体向深海输送的洁净“水障”,台湾暖流北上的顶托也起类似作用,并分析了影响悬浮体含量的各种因素及有关机制。     

青岛地区的台风暴潮与潮灾

本文分析了青岛沿海地区的台风暴潮灾害状况，给出了潮位与海浪的联合作用对灾的影响关系式，提出了今后风暴潮预报的思路。     

用实测海水透明度数据和NOAA卫星数据计算黄海悬浮体含量

用国家海洋局1975—1982年间在黄东海调查的海水透明度数据换算为悬浮体含量,用NOAA卫星高分辨率辐射计数据计算悬浮体含量,以绘制悬浮体含量分布图。分布图显示,研究区有三个悬浮体含量高值区,位于苏北浅滩、长江口、成山角沿岸水域。研究表明,风浪是影响悬浮体含量的海洋外部的主要因素。层化参量是影响悬浮体含量海洋内部的主要因素。