烟威及石岛近海春季水团分析

本文使用1960—1980年春季的水文资料,以温度和盐度作为主要指标,根据聚类分析逼近温盐图解,结合对该海域地理环境特征的分析,对烟台、威海及石岛近海春季的水团结构演变及其和渔场、渔期的关系进行综合分析。结果表明,北黄海及青岛外海的冷水团,以及黄海暖水团的强度与位置的变动,对春季渔期的早迟以及渔场位置的变动,都有很大的影响。     

Effect of dispersion on impulsive waves

The generation and propagation of surface waves resulting from suddenly created disturbances over water surfaces is investigated. The initial boundary conditions defining the disturbance are given either by a velocity of the free surface, an initial elevation of the free surface or a pressure impulsively applied on the free surface. It is shown that the corresponding three forms of solutions are related by a simple time derivative. Linear solutions are obtained in the cases where the wave motion is assumed to be nondispersive, mildly dispersive and fully dispersive, as well as in the case where the motion is given by the method of stationary phase. Criteria are established to indicate the limit of validity of each method.     

近岸海浪模式在中国东海台风浪模拟中的应用--数值模拟及物理过程研究

较为详细地介绍了基于能量平衡方程的第三代近岸海浪数值模式SWAN（Simulation Waves Nearshore）及其包含的物理过程（风生浪、底摩擦、白浪耗散、深度诱导波破碎、非线性波－波相作用等），并利用该模式对影响杭州湾－长江口沿岸海域的一次台风浪过程进行了模拟研究：模式所需风场由藤田台风风场模型嵌入对应台风特征等压线，并对相应时段的NCAR／NCEPT资料、单站资料进行同化后提供；利用自嵌套的方式提供波谱边界条件；模式模拟的结果与实际海浪观测资料相符较好，在此基础上，研究了底摩擦、深度诱导波破碎、三波相互作用等物理过程联合对近岸台风浪的影响，初步认识了它们在近岸台风浪生成、传播过程中的重要作用。     

海浪周期关系的研究

本文利用现场观测数据、实验室风浪槽观测数据和由文氏谱及JONSWAP谱生成的模拟数据,研究了有效周期与谱平均周期、谱峰周期与谱平均周期以及有效周期与谱峰周期的关系,通过数据拟合给出了相应的关系式.研究发现,有效周期与由谱的负阶矩计算的平均周期之间的关系更加稳定,并且有效周期与负2阶矩计算的平均周期几乎相等,均代表了海浪主导波对海浪平均周期的贡献.     

Wave reflection from partially perforated-wall caisson breakwater

In 1995, Suh and Park developed a numerical model that computes the reflection of regular waves from a fully perforated-wall caisson breakwater. This paper describes how to apply this model to a partially perforated-wall caisson and irregular waves. To examine the performance of the model, existing experimental data are used for regular waves, while a laboratory experiment is conducted in this study for irregular waves. The numerical model based on a linear wave theory tends to over-predict the reflection coefficient of regular waves as the wave nonlinearity increases, but such an over-prediction is not observed in the case of irregular waves. For both regular and irregular waves, the numerical model slightly over- and under-predicts the reflection coefficients at larger and smaller values, respectively, because the model neglects the evanescent waves near the breakwater.     

An unsteady wave driver for narrowbanded waves: modeling nearshore circulation driven by wave groups

In this paper, we derive an unsteady refraction–diffraction model for narrowbanded water waves for use in computing coupled wave–current motion in the nearshore. The end result is a variable coefficient, nonlinear Schrödinger-type wave driver (describing the envelope of narrow-banded incident waves) coupled to forced nonlinear shallow water equations (describing steady or unsteady mean flows driven by the short-wave field). Comparisons with experimental data show that good accuracy can be obtained for cases of nonbreaking wave transformation. Numerical simulations show that the interaction of wave groups with longshore topographic nonuniformities generates strong edge wave resonances, providing a generating mechanism for low-order edge waves.     

黑潮水入侵南海的水文分析──Ⅱ.1994年8—9月期间的观测结果

利用1994年8－9月期间，由台湾海峡两岸的4艘海洋调查船在南海东北部海域所获之CTD和ADCP资料，并结合1992年3月间在同一海域获取的CTD资料及部分历史水文资料，对该区域的海水特性以及黑潮水入侵南海等问题进行了分析探讨。结果表明：调查期间，本海区水团分布与冬末、春初（1992年3月）航次基本相似，即南海和西北太平洋海域的海水结构有着各自相对独立的温、盐度特性。虽发现有黑潮水穿越巴上海峡进入南海，但其势力甚弱。因此，在夏末秋初，黑潮亦无直接的分支深入南海，即使在巴士海峡北端进入台湾海峡的黑潮水，其影响也是十分微弱的。由等密度面、地转流分析和实测ADCP资料显示，在调查海区的东南海域存在一支较强的N向流动。它沿菲律宾西海岸北上，绕过吕宋岛西北角流向东北，在巴上海峡呈现与黑潮水混合的迹象，其水体在冬季明显呈高温、低盐的特性；夏季则为相对低温、低盐。故在冬季的几幅卫星图像上也有较好的体现，很有可能长年存在。     

西太平洋暖池区热带波动的天气效应

为了探讨西太平洋暧地区热带波动的天气效应，利用1980年2－9月140°E日本静止卫星纬度时间剖面卫星云图，分析了5d和14d左右周期热带波动云的演变特征，井综合分析了14d周期的云系演变型式与流场的关系，为预报热带中期天气变化规律提供了依据；热带波动中30－60d大气低频振荡的云量变化最显著，北半球夏半年热带波动的天气压主要在10°N－0°，各半年在10°N－10°S，超过这个区域热带云量的港分布型式就有明显的变化。     

水波在软淤泥底床上的衰减

本文研究了二层流体系统中波浪的衰减。上层为理想流体，下层为粘弹性Ｖｏｉｇｔ体。导出了色散关系，计算了波浪衰减系数。对于粘性或弹性很大或很小的情况，导出了各种水深情况下近似的显式的衰减系数表示式。与精确的数值结果比较，近似程度很好。可供工程设计参考、使用。     

A phase-averaged Boussinesq model with effective description of carrier wave group and associated long wave evolution

From the phase-resolving improved Boussinesq equations (Beji and Nadaoka, Ocean Engineering 23 (1996) 691), a phase-averaged Boussinesq model for water waves is derived by more effectively describing carrier wave groups and accompanying long wave evolution with less CPU time. Linear shoaling characteristics of carrier wave equations are investigated and found to agree exactly with the analytical expression obtained from the constancy of energy flux for the improved Boussinesq equations themselves, showing that the present model equations are the results of a consistent derivation procedure regarding energy considerations. Numerical simulations of the derived equations for the single wave group and narrow-banded random waves show the validity of the present model and its high performance, especially on the CPU time.