Outer wave number spectrum and statistical distribution of apparent wave number vector

Based on the ray theory and Longuet-Higgins’s linear model of sea waves, the joint distribution of wave envelope and apparent wave number vector is established. From the joint distribution, we define a new concept, namely the outer wave number spectrum, to describe the outer characteristics of ocean waves. The analytical form of the outer wave number spectrum, the probability distributions of the apparent wave number vector and its components are then derived. The outer wave number spectrum is compared with the inner wave number spectrum for the average status of wind-wave development corresponding to a peakness factor P = 3. Discussions on the similarity and difference between the outer wave number spectrum and inner one are also presented in the paper.     

Dynamics and Variability of Terra Nova Bay Polynya

Abstract. We present a process study on the dynamics and variability of the Terra Nova Bay polynya in the western sector of the Ross Sea. The air-sea heat exchange is known to be particularly large in polynya during the winter, when differences between air and sea temperatures are large. We apply a 1-D model (Pease, 1987; Van Woert, 1999a, 1999b), which is modified in the latent heat parameterisation in order to account for time-dependent relative humidity and cloud coverage. Furthermore, the Ice Collection Depth is correlated linearly with a variable wind speed. The model is forced with two different meteorological data sets: the operational analysis of the European Center for Medium Range Weather Forecasts atmospheric data set and the meteorological parameters measured by an Automatic Weather Station located on the coast of Terra Nova Bay. The results are compared in terms of polynya extension, ice, and High Salinity Shelf Water production. According to the two different wind velocities, the results obtained from the different data sets clearly differ. Qualitatively, however, the results are in good agreement.     

Statistics of wave forces on large horizontal cylinders

To the first order in a Stokes expansion, the pressure force exerted by a sea state on a large horizontal cylinder represents a stationary random Gaussian process. A relationship is obtained between the spectrum of this process and the wave spectrum. As a consequence, the basic statistical properties of the height and period of the individual waves of the force-process are also obtained. It is proven that these statistical properties agree very well with the data from a small scale field experiment.     

波浪作用下海床动力反应的数值分析

近海和离岸建筑物的基通常处于连续不断的小风浪作用之下，可将其变形视为弹性。基于二维广义Biot理论，提出了线性或非线性波浪作用下饱和弹性海床动力应应的时域有限元数值解法。静力平衡条件和Biot方程组成的边值方程可视为其特例，在比较算例中，数值计算得到的孔压和有效应力幅值沿海床深度的分布与解析解十分吻合。土骨架和孔隙流体的加速度对海床动力反应的影响很小。具体算例表明，线性波沿缓坡海床传播时，土层中超静孔压和有效应力幅值随之增大，有可能发生滑动坡坏。所提出的数值解法能够灵活地处理非线性波浪荷载，海底复杂地质条件和波浪沿缓坡传播等复杂情况。     

Modified mild slope equation and open boundary conditions

A numerical model to compute wave field is developed. It is based on the Berkhoff diffraction-refraction equation, in which an energy dissipation term is added, to take into account the breaking and the bottom friction phenomena. The energy dissipation function, by breaking and by bottom friction, is introduced in the Berkhoff equation to obtain a new equation of propagation.The resolution is done with the hybrid finite element method, where lagrangians elements are used.     

太平洋波高分布及变化规律研究

使用 Topex/ Poseidon卫星高度计 1 992年 1 0月～ 1 998年 1 2月连续 75个月 ,2 30个重复周期的有效波高资料对南北太平洋的有效波高进行了统计 ,分析了太平洋有效波高的多年平均、多年各月平均和多年各季平均的空间分布特征和时间变化规律。结果表明 ,太平洋波高分布具有明显季节变化的规律 ,与太平洋的风速分布特征具有良好的对应关系     

Hydrodynamic Forces on Smooth Inclined Cyh''''nders in Oscillatory Flow

-The hydrodynamic forces on a smooth inclined circular cylinder exposed to oscillating flow were experimentally investigated at Reynolds number (Re) in the range 40000-200000 and Keulegan-Capenter number (KC) in the interval from 5-40. In the test, Re number and KC number were varied systematically. The inertia force coefficient (Cu) and the drag force coefficient (CD) in Morison equation were determined from the measured loads and the water particle kinematics. In this analysis a modified form of Morison equation was used since it uses the normal velocity and acceleration. Thus, the applicability of the Cross Flow Principle was assumed. This principle, simply stated, is as follows: the force acting in the direction normal to the axis of a cylinder placed at some oblique angle with the direction of flow is expressed in terms of the normal component of flow only, and the axial component is disregarded. Both the total in-line force coefficient (CF) and transverse force (lift) coefficient (Cf) were analyzed     

High Frequency Current Fluctuations and Cross-shelf Flows around the Pycnocline near the Shelf Break in the East China Sea

Relation between internal waves with short time scale and density distribution near the shelf break in the East China Sea is studied utilizing moored current meters, thermometers and conductivity-temperature-depth (CTD) casts. A well developed pycnocline was frequently observed around 150–200 m depth near the shelf break accompanied with the development of internal waves with short time scale. During the cruise in May 1998, the intensified internal wave motion with short time scale and the distinct offshore flow were observed just below the lower pycnocline, which shoaled and extended above the shelf area. It is suggested that vertical mixing generated by amplified internal waves would produce cross-shelf ageostophic density current around the pycnocline. During the cruise in May 1999, on the other hand, the lower pycnocline was located offshore below the shelf break, and the internal wave motion was amplified just above the lower pycnocline. In this case, the offshore flow should be generated above the lower pycnocline, but vertical profiles of current velocity were not obtained because acoustic Doppler current profiler (ADCP) data were not available around the lower pycnocline.     

Dereverberation of marine reflection seismic data by a spatial combination of predictive deconvolution and velocity filtering

Contamination of seismic reflection records at early times by first-order water reverberations can be especially severe during survey operations over hard and flat sea floors on the continental shelf or in lake environments. A new dereverberation scheme based on two classical techniques — predictive deconvolution and velocity filtering — has been developed to address this problem. The techniques are combined spatially to take advantage of their complementary offset- and time-dependent properties. Stage I of the scheme consists of applying predictive deconvolution at short offset. The data are previously conditioned by a normal moveout correction with the water velocity which restores the periodicity of the reverberations in the offset-time plane and enhances the performance of deconvolution. Stage II of the scheme involves velocity filtering in the common-midpoint domain which is particularly effective at long offset where the moveout difference between primary reflections and reverberations is largest. The dereverberation scheme is well suited for the initial processing of large volumes of data due to the general availability of cost-effective deconvolution and velocity filtering algorithms in seismic processing software packages. Practical implementation issues are illustrated by a field example from the GLIMPCE survey in Lake Superior.Lithoprobe Publication No. 475.     

浙江省海岸侵蚀及防治概述

浙江海岸侵蚀现象普遍存在。基岩海岸海蚀地貌发育,因其组成物质抗冲蚀能力强,岸线后退不明显;砂砾质海岸普遍发生侵蚀,尤其是无计划的人工挖沙,造成沙滩减小或消失;淤泥质海岸大多处于缓慢的淤涨状态,但由于自然条件的改变和人为作用的影响,某些岸段发生侵蚀,特别是受到台风暴潮的影响,岸线在短时间内出现大规模后退和滩面下蚀。侵蚀岸段主要见于杭州湾北岸澉浦至金丝娘桥岸段,杭州湾南岸临山至西三岸段及瓯江口北岸盘石至黄华岸段。淤泥质海岸后缘为滨海平原,组成物质为粘土质粉砂,抗冲蚀能力弱,为防止和减轻海岸侵蚀,沿岸建造各类海岸工程(海塘、丁坝、导堤等),提高防潮抗浪能力,在朝滩种植大米草,互花米草,消浪促淤明显。另外,在海岸开发活动中,应加强海岸侵蚀监测和综合管理。