Wave reflection from partially perforated-wall caisson breakwater

In 1995, Suh and Park developed a numerical model that computes the reflection of regular waves from a fully perforated-wall caisson breakwater. This paper describes how to apply this model to a partially perforated-wall caisson and irregular waves. To examine the performance of the model, existing experimental data are used for regular waves, while a laboratory experiment is conducted in this study for irregular waves. The numerical model based on a linear wave theory tends to over-predict the reflection coefficient of regular waves as the wave nonlinearity increases, but such an over-prediction is not observed in the case of irregular waves. For both regular and irregular waves, the numerical model slightly over- and under-predicts the reflection coefficients at larger and smaller values, respectively, because the model neglects the evanescent waves near the breakwater.     

An unsteady wave driver for narrowbanded waves: modeling nearshore circulation driven by wave groups

In this paper, we derive an unsteady refraction–diffraction model for narrowbanded water waves for use in computing coupled wave–current motion in the nearshore. The end result is a variable coefficient, nonlinear Schrödinger-type wave driver (describing the envelope of narrow-banded incident waves) coupled to forced nonlinear shallow water equations (describing steady or unsteady mean flows driven by the short-wave field). Comparisons with experimental data show that good accuracy can be obtained for cases of nonbreaking wave transformation. Numerical simulations show that the interaction of wave groups with longshore topographic nonuniformities generates strong edge wave resonances, providing a generating mechanism for low-order edge waves.     

黑潮水入侵南海的水文分析──Ⅱ.1994年8—9月期间的观测结果

利用1994年8－9月期间，由台湾海峡两岸的4艘海洋调查船在南海东北部海域所获之CTD和ADCP资料，并结合1992年3月间在同一海域获取的CTD资料及部分历史水文资料，对该区域的海水特性以及黑潮水入侵南海等问题进行了分析探讨。结果表明：调查期间，本海区水团分布与冬末、春初（1992年3月）航次基本相似，即南海和西北太平洋海域的海水结构有着各自相对独立的温、盐度特性。虽发现有黑潮水穿越巴上海峡进入南海，但其势力甚弱。因此，在夏末秋初，黑潮亦无直接的分支深入南海，即使在巴士海峡北端进入台湾海峡的黑潮水，其影响也是十分微弱的。由等密度面、地转流分析和实测ADCP资料显示，在调查海区的东南海域存在一支较强的N向流动。它沿菲律宾西海岸北上，绕过吕宋岛西北角流向东北，在巴上海峡呈现与黑潮水混合的迹象，其水体在冬季明显呈高温、低盐的特性；夏季则为相对低温、低盐。故在冬季的几幅卫星图像上也有较好的体现，很有可能长年存在。     

波群作用于垂直桩柱的峰力统计性质

研究具有窄谱和Ｗｅｉｂｕｌｌ波高分布的波群对非线性桩柱系统作用力的统计性质。求得了桩桩的波浪峰力的各种特征值及其比值。指出这些数值不仅是阻力一惯性力参数ｂＨ的函数，也随着波群因子而变化。本文模式更具广泛性。文中给出了一系列计算图表，可从理论计算波群作用于桩柱的波浪峰力。     

A study of Coriolis effects on long waves propagating in an unbounded ocean, channel and basin

The effects of Coriolis force on long waves have been discussed based on gravity waves propagating in an unbounded ocean, channel and basin. In case of ocean, results show that the Coriolis effect will be significant and negligible, when the wave period is comparable to 2π/f and much shorter, respectively. Results also show in a channel, the wave amplitude and water particle velocity decrease exponentially in the positive y direction in the northern hemisphere (where f is positive). Moreover, in a basin, the Cotidal lines have been found as curves and rotate counterclockwise around the origin.     

用新显色剂3-甲氧基-甲亚胺H光度测定海水中的硼

采用新试剂３－甲氧基－甲亚胺Ｈ测定海水中的硼，加入ＥＤＴＡ和酒石酸掩蔽各种干扰离子，不须分离可直接测定，方法简便、快速、准确。     

波浪底摩擦力对重砂富集的影响——以鲁南近岸区为例

根据浅水波浪的底摩擦效应，对鲁南灵山湾和臼－岚山镇近岸区进行了波浪的海底摩擦力计算。波浪的海底摩擦力等值图与已知滨海锆石砂矿资料对比表明，底摩擦力大于０．１８Ｎ／ｍ＾２的动力分选区有利于重矿物砂富集。据此，进一步预测了鲁南近岸带的砂矿富集区。     

McCreary和Fickian湍扩散形式差异的分析

用矩阵方法,求解McCreary和Fickian铅垂向湍扩散形式下,无界海洋条件时在风应力和深层浮力作用下的线性解。得出不同的湍扩散系数A情况下McCreary与Fickian湍扩散形式的流场结构。指出随湍扩散系数的增加,McCreary和Fickian湍扩散形式下u分量结构及其量值差异增大。在Fickian湍扩散形式下,能量穿越密度跃层的传递能力较强。当A=0.1cm~2s~(-3)时,在风应力和深层浮力作用下两种湍扩散形式造成流场的差异很小。提出在小湍扩散系数下,用McCreary湍扩散形式研究热带海洋环流,其结果和Fickian形式应相当一致。     

Non-Simultaneous Failure of Ice in Front of Multi-Leg Structures

Because the multi-leg jacket structure is the major type of offshore structures in the Bohai Sea, the study of non-si-multaneous failure of i鏴 on multi-leg structures is important. However, the non-simultaneous failure has not been consid-ered in engineering design until now, obviously resulting in costly design and notable waste. To resolve this problem, this paper, by means of analysis of experimental data, calculates the coefficient of the non-simultaneous failure for the double-pile structure, the square four-leg structure, the single-line multi-pile structure, and the conical structure, respectively, and provides some reference criteria for engineering design.     

Structure of Subsurface Intrusion of the Oyashio Water into the Kuroshio Extension and Formation Process of the North Pacific Intermediate Water

In order to understand the actual formation process of the North Pacific Intermediate Water (NPIW), structure of subsurface intrusions of the Oyashio water and the mixing of the Oyashio and the Kuroshio waters in and around the Kuroshio Extension (KE) were examined on the basis of a synoptic CTD observation carried out in May-June 1992. The fresh Oyashio water in the south of Hokkaido was transported into KE region through the Mixed Water Region (MWR) in the form of subsurface intrusions along two main paths. The one was along the east coast of northern Japan through the First Branch of the Oyashio (FBO) and the other along the eastern face of a warm streamer which connected KE with a warm core ring through the Second Branch of the Oyashio (SBO). The fresh Oyashio water extended southward through FBO strongly mixed with the saline NPIW transported by the Kuroshio in the south of Japan (old NPIW) in and around the warm streamer. On the other hand, the one through SBO well preserved its original properties and extended eastward beyond 150°E along KE with a form of rather narrow band. The intrusion ejected Oyashio water lens with a diameter of 50–60 km southward across KE axis and split northward into the MWR involved in the interaction of KE and a warm core ring, which were supposed to be primary processes of new NPIW formation.