Modelling of periodic wave transformation in the inner surf zone

In this paper, we analyse the ability of the nonlinear shallow-water (NSW) equations to predict wave distortion and energy dissipation of periodic broken waves in the inner surf zone. This analysis is based on the weak-solution theory for conservative equations. We derive a new one-way model, which applies to the transformation of non-reflective periodic broken waves on gently sloping beaches. This model can be useful to develop breaking-wave parameterizations (in particular broken-wave celerity expression) in both time-averaged wave models and time-dependent Boussinesq-type models. We also derive a new wave set-up equation which provides a simple and explicit relation between wave set-up and energy dissipation. Finally, we compare numerical simulations of both, the NSW model and the simplified one-way model, with spilling wave breaking experiments and we find a good agreement.     

First results from the North Iceland experiment

Between June 2004 and September 2004 a temporary seismic network was installed on the northern insular shelf of Iceland and onshore in north Iceland. The seismic setup aimed at resolving the subsurface structure and, thus, the geodynamical transition from Icelandic crust to typical oceanic crust along Kolbeinsey Ridge. The experiment recorded about 1,000 earthquakes. The region encloses the Tjörnes Fracture Zone containing the Husavik–Flatey strike-slip fault and the extensional seismic Grimsey Lineament. Most of the seismicity occurs in swarms offshore. Preliminary results reveal typical mid-ocean crust north of Grimsey and a heterogeneous structure with major velocity anomalies along the seismic lineaments and north–south trending subsurface features. Complementary bathymetric mapping highlight numerous extrusion features along the Grimsey Lineament and Kolbeinsey Ridge. The seismic dataset promises to deliver new insights into the tectonic framework for earthquakes in an extensional transform zone along the global mid-ocean ridge system.     

北黄海沉积物中重金属分布及环境背景值

本文讨论了北黄海１１个柱状岩芯样的颗粒物（＜０．０６３ｍｍ）中重金属的分布，采用统计学方法对Ｃｕ，Ｐｈ，Ｚｎ和Ｃｄ进行态性检验，用柱样稳定段（拐点以下）作为背景段，获得重金属环境背景值．     

太湖表面定振波的数值计算和最大熵谱分析

利用水动力学方程对太湖表面的定振波进行计算，算得定振波周期约为４５２ｍｉｎ，另外，利用１９９２年８月２９－３１日在太湖西山观测到的水位资料，采用最大熵谱法，分析太湖表面的定振波，得周期值约为４５０ｍｉｎ。计算和分析的周期值基本吻合，取熵谱分析结果得太湖表面的单节点定振波周期值为４５０ｍｉｎ。     

渤海湾沿岸泥炭沼泽形成机制与时空分布

渤海湾沿岸的海陆过渡带，优越的水文地理环境有利于泥炭沼泽的形成与发育。海洋海退导致的海岸线变迁，是控制泥炭沼泽发育时间和空间分布的主导因素。间冰期和冰后期的海面上升期间，自海向陆发育了海侵基底泥炭；中全新世高海面期，在山前扇缘洼地和沟谷有泥炭沼泽发育；晚全新世海面下降期，泥炭沼泽主要发育在沿岸的海湾、泻湖、三角洲汊河间洼地及平原上的河滩、阶地、古河道等地。     

沿海城市海水入侵问题研究

近年来，沿海城市的海水入侵问题逐渐成为人们关心的焦点之一。文章通过资料搜集与整理，对沿海城市的海水入侵状况作了全面描述与分析。系统地总结了海水入侵的若干特点及海水入侵的成因分析与规律，较为详细的分析了海水入侵的基本事实、基本矛盾和各发展阶段的发展原因，在此基础上总结了海水入侵的基本理论。为进一步的研究打下良好的基础。     

海沧邻近海域表层沉积物中重矿物研究

对厦门海沧邻近海域表层沉积物中的重矿物(0．063～0．125mm粒级)进行了分析和研究，结果表明该粒级的重矿物共计49种，其优势和特征矿物为磁铁矿、赤铁矿、褐铁矿、绿帘石、铁铁矿、角闪石、锆石、红柱石等；重矿物的平均质量分数为9．56％；根据重矿物的分布和含量，并结合主要标志矿物的颗粒百分含量和分布特征，将该海域划分为5个矿物组合区，根据各区的矿物组合类型分析了该海域的物质来源及影响重矿物分布和组合的因素，进而探讨了九龙江河口湾和厦门西港海湾的沉积环境。     

Distribution of dissolved organic carbon in and near the Prydz Bay, Antarctica

INTRODUCTIONDissolvedorganiccarbon (DOC)makesupthesecondlargestofthebioactivepoolsofcar bonintheocean ,secondtothelargestpoolofdissolvedinorganiccarbon .Theglobaldissolvedorganiccarbonpoolisestimatedtobe 6 85Gt,avaluecomparabletothemassofCO2 intheat mosphere (Hedges,1 992 ) .Thesizeofthereservoir,aswellasitsdynamics ,indicatesthatDOCplaysacentralroleintheoceancarboncycle .AsitrelatestogreenhousegasessuchasCO2 andassociatesclimatecycle ,oceanicDOCbiogeochemicalcycleshavebeenoneoftheh…     

环太湖河道污染物负荷量的初步研究

根据１９８７－１９８８年环太湖河道水质，水量实测资料以及环湖主要河道的流量和水质的历史资料，结合平原水网地区的水情特征，提出了环太湖河道污染物负荷量的计算方法，并分析探讨了不同设计水情下环太湖河道污染物负荷量及其时空变化。结果表明，污染物负荷量与水情关系密切，枯水年的河道入湖污染物负荷量大于丰水年。环湖２２条主要河道的入湖污染物负荷量占全部河道入湖总量的７２％－９１％，且不同污染物入湖负荷量的分布     

台湾海峡中北部上升流区各种形态磷的化学特性

根据１９８８年７月调查资料讨论了台湾海峡中北部海域夏季上升流区各种形态磷的分布特征。结果表明，上升流中心区（即海坛岛东侧一带水域）具有低温、高盐、低溶解氧；ＤＩｐ，ＴＤＰ，ＰＰ，ＴＰ较高；ＤＯＰ较低（０．２７）；及ＤＩＰ／ＤＯＰ比值（约为１）较高的特性。ＤＯＰ是该海域磷的主要形态（占ＴＰ的４９．２％），其含量分布及其形态转化与生物活动直接相关，是该海域生物生产力高的体现。