Experimental study of the breaking limit of multi-directional random waves passing over an impermeable submerged breakwater

This study investigates experimentally the breaking wave height of multi-directional random waves passing over an impermeable submerged breakwater. Experiments have been conducted in a three-dimensional wave basin equipped with a multi-directional random wave generator. A special type of wave gauge has been newly devised to record the water surface elevations in the breaker zone as accurately as possible. The records are analyzed to estimate the location and limit of wave breaking. Comparisons have also been made with the results of regular waves. The influence of the incident wave conditions on the breaking wave height normalized by the breakwater dimensions has been investigated. Empirical formulae have been presented to estimate the breaking limit of multi-directional random waves based on the experimental records. The formulae have been tested and found to work well not only for multi-directional random waves, but for regular waves as well.     

长江口枯季悬沙粒度与浓度之间的关系

2003和2004年枯季在长江口采集水样并作水文观测，对所获水样进行过滤和粒度分析，以计算悬沙浓度和悬沙粒度分布。结果表明，2003年11月小潮期间，悬沙中值粒径与悬沙浓度存在着显著的指数关系，在大潮期间没有显著关系；在2004年2月小湖期间，两者之间没有显著关系，但在大潮期间存在着显著的指数关系。枯季水体悬沙以粉砂组份为主，并且随着向口外的推移，细颗粒组份逐渐增加，但在拦门沙最大浑浊带附近，由于絮凝作用，沉积物粒度变幅较大，可产生粒径粗化的现象。小潮期间，砂含量较低，但与悬沙浓度之间有显著相关关系；大潮期间，悬沙粒径粗化，但砂含量与悬沙浓度之间的关系不显著。上述分布趋势与沉积物来源、当地的水动力条件和絮凝作用等因素有密切关系。     

中国北方沿海食用贝类油污染特征研究

１９９０年７月～１９９１年１２月，监测了中国北部沿海食用贝类体内的污染物残留量水平。本文用石油烃的分析数据为基础，讨论了沿岸贝类受石油烃污染的现状和分布特征；计算了样品干、湿重含量的本底值范围。给出了油标准和标准之间的互校系数Ｒ值。对样品进行了同步荧光光谱分析，并用同步荧光光谱的分析数据，计算了样品间模糊相关系数，做了模糊聚类分析。     

Reduction of sand demand for shore protection

Beach nourishment is an environmentally preferred method of shore protection, but the annual sand requirement may lead to substantial maintenance costs. The shoreline processes, involving the surf zone, beach and dune, are reviewed with the aim of reducing the annual sand requirement of eroding shorelines. It is shown that surf zones with equilibrium profiles, on which the wave energy conversion is evenly distributed across the surf zone, from experience for given conditions indicate least loss of sand. On steep, eroding shorelines it may be difficult to establish an equilibrium profile. For such cases, the use of perched surf zones is recommended, which are supported at the seaward limit by an underwater sill. For reduction of littoral transport, the use of pervious pile groynes is recommended. These are arguably more efficient than impervious groynes. The sand loss from a usually dry beach by raised water levels is shown to be a function of the beach slope and is least when the storm waves at raised water levels do not cut an erosion escarpment. The loss of sand from a dune by infrequent severe storm tides can be prevented with the aid of a built-in membrane. These sand losses are usually large and constitute an uneconomic use of this sand resource. The proposed concepts and measures are linked to existing knowledge, augmented by data from the large wave flume (LWF) in Germany and field data from the North and Baltic Sea coasts.     

Intercomparison of coastal area morphodynamic models

Five different coastal area morphodynamic models have been set up to run on the same offshore breakwater layout and an intercomparison carried out on the hydrodynamic and morphodynamic output produced by each scheme. In addition, the predicted morphodynamics was checked against available laboratory and field data.It is concluded that the models are capable of producing realistic estimates for the dominant morphodynamic features associated with offshore breakwaters. Coupling of the wave, current and sediment transport components of each scheme is shown to yield bathymetry which attains a state of equilibrium, unlike models which are based on the initial transport field only.     

厦门港岩相潮间带多毛类的生态

本文根据１９８７年２、５、８、１１月调查资料，研究了厦门港岩相潮间带多毛类的种类组成、种类与数量的垂直分布、季节变化，并与大亚湾多毛类生态进行比较。结果表明，调查区域有多毛类４７种。平均栖息密度６０个／ｍ＾２，平均生物量１．７８ｇ／ｍ＾２，潮汐作用影响多毛类的种数、密度、生物量的垂直分布。多毛类数量的季节变化不甚明显，但冬季的栖息密度和春季的生物量较高。     

渤海、黄海、东海沉积物中矿物组合的研究

本文对黄海、渤海、东海以及长江、黄河、辽河表层沉积物中的轻、重矿物进行了研究。分析资料表明,调查区内共有三种类型的矿物:陆源矿物、自生矿物和海底火山喷发形成的火山型矿物。根据轻、重矿物组合的差异,可把调查区分成8个矿物区。其物质来源主要为黄河与长江。黄河物质主要沉积在黄海、渤海;长江物质沉积在东海陆架区,而冲绳海槽则发现有海底火山喷发物质与浊流沉积。     

人工养虾池生态系统结构特点及其控制对策

为养殖对虾而修筑的大大小小的养虾池都是一相对独立的生态系统。在池内生态条件适于对虾正常要求的情况下，对虾可以在其中生存、生长。如果生态条件逐步恶化，非但影响对虾的正常生活、生长，严重时甚至导致全部对虾死亡。粗放式的养殖，其影响也相对小些，高密度养殖情况下潜在的危险较大，对养殖池的环境状况要特别注意。ｌ人工养虾生态系统的基本特点１·１人工养殖池是一个结构简单的生态系统。在池内除放养的对虾（有时混养贝类等）外自然存在的生物通常是浮游植物和浮游动物，食物链大体上是二个层次（对虾靠投饵喂养例外）。养虾池…     

南极中山站石榴石变粒岩的岩石学矿物学及其变质作用研究

本文报道了南极拉丝曼丘陵“中山站”石榴石变粒岩的岩石学和矿物化学特征;确定了其矿物组合及世代演化关系,利用电子探针分析了其特征变质矿物的化学组成,最后推断东南极拉丝曼丘陵地区曾发生过麻粒岩相变质作用和混合岩化作用。     

厦门港岩石岸潮间带软体动物的生态

本文根据１９８２年２月至１９８３年２月在厦门港岩石岩潮间带采集的软体动物，论述了其种类组成，数量分布，生活型及影响软件动物分布的主要环境因子，厦门港岩石岸潮间带共发现软动物５４种。其中，多板类６种，腹足类３３种，双壳类１５种，优势种有僧帽牡蛎，黑荞麦蛤，复瓦小蛇螺，粗糙滨螺等。与６０年代初调查结果比较得出，厦门港岩石岸潮间带的软体动物群落是相对稳定的，潮汐是决定河口结果比较得出，厦门港岩石岩潮间带