Fundamental study for morphodynamic modelling: Sand mounds in oscillatory flows

Experiments on sand mounds in oscillatory flow, undertaken in controlled, large-scale laboratory conditions, have produced well-defined data sets for model comparison. Three bathymetries with different levels of submergence, including a surface-piercing case, were tested. The maximum slope was about 1:5.5. Sediment transport is due to bed load with ripple formation. The principal time-dependent bulk parameters are the vertical distance of the centre of gravity above the base and the volume of the mound. A semi-implicit finite-volume depth-averaged hydrodynamic model is used to drive morphodynamics, using van Rijn's sediment flux model generalized to take account of bed slope, and some justification is given for depth-averaged modeling in these conditions. Starting the model runs with the conditions at the end of the first cycle avoided initial atypical physical behaviour. In general good predictions were obtained with an angle of repose reduced from the standard value of about 30° for stationary beds to 15°. For these situations, morphodynamics was largely unaffected by a hydrodynamic roughness height in the range 2.5D₅₀ to 51D₅₀, with larger values accounting for ripple roughness. The reduced angle of repose may be physically expected with mobile beds but this specific value is only expected to be suited to this form of bed motion. In one case an exaggerated ripple formed near the top of the mound reducing agreement with experiment. For the submerged case with normal ripple structure excellent predictions were obtained. For the initially surface-piercing mound, the time of submergence was better predicted with a 30° angle of repose, presumably due to the prominent influence of the near stationary bed near the wet/dry interface, although long term predictions were better predicted with 15°. The occurrence of vortex shedding in the first cycle modeled was in agreement with experimental observation.     

A traversing system to measure bottom boundary layer hydraulic properties

This study describes a new convenient and robust system developed to measure benthic boundary layer properties, with emphasis placed on the determination of bed shear stress and roughness height distribution within estuarine systems by using velocity measurements. This system consisted of a remotely operated motorised traverser that allowed a single ADV to collect data between 0 and 1 m above the bed. As a case study, we applied the proposed traversing system to investigate bottom boundary layer (BBL) hydraulic properties within Coombabah Creek, Queensland, Australia. Four commonly-employed techniques: (1) Log-Profile (LP); (2) Reynolds stress (RS); (3) Turbulent Kinetic Energy (TKE); and (4) Inertial Dissipation (ID) used to estimate bed shear stresses from velocity measurements were compared. Bed shear stresses estimated with these four methods agreed reasonably well; of these, the LP method was found to be most useful and reliable. Additionally, the LP method permits the calculation of roughness height, which the other three methods do not. An average value of bed shear stress of 0.46 N/m², roughness height of 4.3 mm, and drag coefficient of 0.0054 were observed within Coombabah Creek. Results are consistent with that reported for several other silty bed estuaries.     

Estimation of the wave-related ripple characteristics and induced bed shear stress

A large data set on ripples was collected and examined. A set of new formulas for the prediction of the ripple characteristics is proposed with an emphasis on the disappearance of the ripples. The ripple wavelength was observed to be proportional to the bottom wave excursion but also to be a function of the grain-related Shields parameter and wave period parameter introduced by Mogridge et al. (1994). The ripple steepness was found to be nearly constant for orbital ripples, and with a sharp decrease for suborbital ripples. Two empirical functions are added including the effects of the critical Shields parameters (inception of transport and inception of sheet flow), i.e. giving the boundaries for the ripple existence's domain. The proposed formulas yield better prediction capabilities compared to the previously published formulas, especially when ripples are washed out. The effect of the ripple characteristics on the roughness height and the calculation of the bed shear stress is also discussed. It appeared that the bed shear stress calculation is more sensitive to the empirical coefficient a_r introduced in the estimation of the ripple-induced roughness height or to the limits of existence of the ripples than the ripple characteristics themselves.     

海洋动床物理模型试验地形制作技术

试验模型地形制作是物模试验的一个基本工作,模型制作的好坏直接关系到实验的精度.模型试验之前,需要根据相似理论,选取合适的材料,按照一定的几何比尺进行模型的制作.通过2个具体工程作为实例说明了模型制作的过程、制作的技术性问题和制作经验.     

Numerical modeling of nonlinear water waves over heterogeneous porous beds

The transformation of nonlinear water waves over porous beds is studied by applying a numerical model based on Chen's [2006. Fully nonlinear Boussinesq-type equations for waves and currents over porous beds. Journal of Engineering Mechanics, 132:2, 220–230] Boussinesq-type equations for highly nonlinear waves on permeable beds. The numerical model uses a high-order time-marching solution and fourth-order finite-difference schemes for discretization of first-order spatial derivatives to obtain a computational accuracy consistent with the model equations. By forcing the wave celerity and spatial porous-damping rate of the linearized model to match the exact linear theory for horizontal porous bed over a prescribed range of relative depths, the values of the model parameters are optimally determined. Numerical simulations of the damped wave propagation over finite-thickness porous layer demonstrate the accuracy of both the numerical model and governing equations, which have been shown by prior theoretical analyses to be accurate for both nominal and thick porous layers. These simulations also elucidate on the significance of the higher-order porous-damping terms and the influence of the hydraulic parameters. Application of the model to the simulation of the wave field around a laboratory-scale submerged porous mound provides a measure of its capability, as well as useful insight into the scaling of the porous-resistance coefficients. For application to heterogeneous porous beds, the assumption of weak spatial variation of the porous resistance is examined using truncated forms of the governing equations. The results indicate that the complete set of Boussinesq-type equations is applicable to porous beds of nonhomogeneous makeup.     

中国东南沿海老红砂研究综述

老红砂是中国东南沿海独具特色的第四纪沉积物。本文回顾了老红砂的研究历史，综述了所取得的关于老红砂的成因，年代和红化作用等主要研究成果及其存在问题，并提出了今后进一步工作的意义。     

GIS与遥感支持下的南黄海辐射沙脊群现代演变趋势分析

南黄海辐射沙脊群是世界罕见的大型水下泥沙堆积体，具有独特的动力地貌组合。利用1988-1995年的LANDSATTM遥感影像，ERS1SAR影像及1979年编绘地形资料，综合应用GIS与遥感方法，对这一区域在20世纪80-90年代的变化及演变趋势作出分析，其基本演变特征与趋势表现为；沙脊群枢纽地区处于不断的增长，扩张过程；南部区域堆积与侵蚀作用较弱，沿岸潮滩向海淤进；而北部区域变化较强烈，并继续脊槽相间的模式，所取得的结果与该区域动力地貌研究结果相吻合。     

长江三角洲北翼全新统底界和“硬粘土层”的讨论

本文以钻孔资料为依据,通过岩石地层学、生物地层学和~(14)C测年分析,认为应以第一海相层底板作为Q_4/Q_(1-3)界线,而不能机械地划在“硬粘土层”顶板;上更新统顶部属河漫、湖沼相沉积,后经暴露、脱水局部层段硬化而成为所谓的杂色“硬粘土层”;本区晚更新世末古地形呈由东、东南向西、西北逐渐抬升的掀斜状,并控制着全新世的海侵方向和范围。     

Control of Aptian palaeobathymetry on turbidite distribution in the Buchan Graben,Outer Moray Firth,Central North Sea

It is widely recognised that palaeobathymetry is a key control on the distribution of turbidite deposits. Thus, the utilisation of palaeobathymetric surfaces as an input for numerical turbidity current modelling offers a potentially powerful method to predict the distribution of deep marine sands in ancient (subsurface or outcrop) successions. Such an approach has been tested on an Aptian turbidite deposit from the Buchan Graben, UK Central North Sea, where modelled sand distributions could be quality controlled against available well data.     

A field test of a linear stability model for crescentic bars

A morphodynamical linear stability analysis is used to predict the natural development of crescentic bed patterns and rip channels. The purpose is to investigate whether this technique, which is useful for understanding the physics of emerging bed-forms, can be used to make quantitative predictions in the field, which may then be of use for coastal engineers.