计算波群折射的方法及其应用

根据汪炳祥１９８提出的普遍几何群速概念和波群波向线及其波向线散开因子方程，提出一种计算和绘制波群折射的数值方法。为使本方法较具普遍性，将旋转坐标系引入控制方程并予以变形与简化。数值计算采用Ｒｕｎｇｅ－Ｋｕｔｔａ法。将上述方法应用于胶州湾湾口附近海域的波群折射计算并绘制其折射图。将计算结果分别与依几何群速建立的波群折射和单频率波折射结果比较，可明显地看出基本方法的结果优于后两者。     

Wave field mapping with particle image velocimetry

A number of different methods for the 3D measurement of the water surface in wave fields have been proposed in the literature, based mostly on refraction, photogrammetry and/or reflected light intensity. Although these methods can map the distorted water surface, they appear to be difficult in practical applications in hydraulic engineering laboratories. A novel wave mapping technique using particle image velocimetry to measure surface flow velocities, and linear wave theory to determine wave heights from the measured velocities, has been developed and validated for regular waves. The method allows for the mapping even of complex wave fields with simple means and appears robust enough for application in the laboratory.     

Seabed shear stress and bedload transport due to asymmetric and skewed waves

A simple conceptual formulation to compute seabed shear stress due to asymmetric and skewed waves is presented. This formulation generalizes the sinusoidal wave case and uses a variable friction factor to describe the physics of the boundary layer and to parameterize the effects of wave shape. Predictions of bed shear stresses agree with numerical computations using a standard boundary layer model with a k–ε turbulence closure. The bed shear stress formulation is combined with a Meyer-Peter and Müller-type formula to predict sheet flow bedload transport under asymmetric and skewed waves for a horizontal or sloping bed. The predictions agree with oscillatory water tunnel measurements from the literature.     

Kinematics of overturning solitary waves and their relations to breaker types

Numerical simulations using a full-nonlinear BIM (Boundary Integral Method) potential-theory wave model are carried out to study the internal velocity and acceleration fields of an solitary wave overturning on a reef with vertical face (submerged breakwater) and their relation to breaker type. The simulations make it clear that the jet size normalized by the incident wave height is uniquely governed by the crown height of the reef, while the jet shape is similar and independent of the size. Further, they reveal that the overall internal kinematics of overturning waves is clearly related to the jet size. As the jet size increases and the breaker type changes from spilling to plunging, the kinematics thus become increasingly different from those of steady waves. Water particles with the greatest velocities or accelerations within the wave converge towards the jet. After the breaking, both of the velocities and accelerations almost simultaneously reach extreme values near locations beneath the jet. Some of the extreme values are closely related to the breaker type and can be uniquely determined by substituting the breaker type index into the regression equations suggested here.     

A finite volume solution of wave forces on submarine pipelines

In this paper, a numerical model is established for simulating the wave forces on a submarine pipeline. A set of two-dimensional Navier–Stokes equations is discretized numerically with a finite volume method in a moving mesh system. After each time step, the mesh is modified according to the changed wave surface boundary. The deffered correction second-order upwind scheme (SUDC) is adopted here to discretize the convective fluxes. The effects of the clearance between the pipeline and the seabed, water depth and wave height on wave forces are studied, respectively. The results by the numerical simulation agree well with the experimental data and theory value.     

Formula for predicting bedload transport rate in oscillatory sheet flows

At high bed shear stress sheet flows often occur in coastal waters in which high-concentration bedload sediments are transported in a thin layer near the bed. This paper firstly constructs a theoretical model (partial differential equations, PDEs) for the intense transport of non-cohesive bedload sediments by unidirectional currents and then seeks a special solution to the PDEs to determine the thickness of the bedload particle–water mixture, which could serve as the “reference height” that is often invoked in numerical computation and simulation of suspended sediment transport in turbulent flows. Moreover, a modified formula is presented to determine the “reference concentration”. Using a “uch” approach the present study derives a 1D formula for predicting bedload transport rate in sheet flows driven by asymmetric waves, with the help of a novel formula for evaluating wave friction factor. The new bedload formula can generically take into account slope angle (positive and negative), wash load concentration in the driving water flow and other factors that affect bedload transport rate. It compares well with measured data in a large-scale wave flume [Dohmen-Janssen, C.M., Hanes, D.M., 2002. Sheet flow dynamics under monochromatic non-breaking waves. Journal of Geophysical Research, 107(C10), 1301–1321], a large-scale oscillatory water tunnel [ Hassan, W.N., Ribberink, J.S., 2005. Transport processes of uniform and mixed sands in oscillatory sheet flow. Coastal Engineering, 52, 745–770] and in a swash zone of natural beach [Masselink, G., Hughes, M.G., 1998. Field investigation of sediment transport in the swash zone. Continental Shelf Research, 18, 1179–1199].     

南沙海区风浪分析与计算

根据南沙海区风浪实测资料,阐述了南沙海区波高的分布规律。应用相关分析法,通过多元回归计算,得出波要素与风速、风时之间的关系。对波高、波周期的相互关系作了统计分析并利用永署礁海洋观测站1990年1～7月的实测资料对计算结果作了验证。结果表明,南沙海区波高、波周期的计算值与实测值基本吻合。     

Wavelet transform based coherence analysis of freak wave and its impact

The present paper presents the results of a wavelet transform-based coherence analysis of freak wave and its impact. Wavelet transform has been used as a tool in analyzing signals in the time domain as well as in the frequency domain. The analysis was applied to laboratory-generated freak waves. The wavelet transform of the time history of the freak wave and its impact force revealed that a wide range of frequency components were contained in them. The coherence analysis was conducted on the wave and its impact force time histories. The coherence analysis revealed that some high-frequency components were highly correlated with the impact forces. The present study demonstrates that the wavelet transform can be an alternative tool in the analysis of strongly nonlinear freak wave and its impact.     

Wave interaction with twin plate wave barrier

The wave transmission and reflection characteristics and wave induced pressures on single surface plate and twin plate barriers were investigated experimentally for a wide range of wave heights and periods in regular and random waves. Seven different spacing between the plates were tested. It is found in general, hydrodynamically the twin plate is better than the single surface plate to reduce the wave transmission and increase the wave reflection. It is found that the transmission coefficient of twin plate reduced from 0.8 to 0.3 when the relative plate width is increased from 0.18 to 0.84. Transmission coefficient of twin plate barrier shows oscillating behavior, when relative plate width is increased due to blocking and pumping effect. The reflection coefficient increased from 0.25 to 0.65, when the relative width of the plate is increased from 0.18 to 0.84. The increase in spacing between the plates was also found to increase the reflection coefficient. The transmission coefficient, K_t for 98% probability of non-exceedence was found to be minimum and is about 0.60 when the relative spacing between the plate is about 0.12, compared to K_t=0.76 for single surface plate. The reflection coefficient for 98% probability of non-exceedence was found to exceed 0.66 for single surface plate, whereas it is 0.73 for twin plate with relative spacing of about 0.40. From the investigation with wide range of input parameters, it is found that the twin plate barrier needs to be designed for highest 98% pressure ratio of 2.0, which is equal to the static pressure induced by the design incident wave height.