一维有耗散波动方程的奇性分析与小波

对系数有强奇性（间断）的波动方程,用通常的线性化简的方法时往往会将数值小但奇性强的项略去,导致结果严重失真。利用小波变换这一工具,可以在化简时保留奇性的主要部分,使所得的结果从奇性分析的观点看来更为精确。此方法曾被用来处理系数有间断的一维波动方程,得到了与精确解的奇性主部完全一致的解．在本文中,我们改进了用小波变换作奇性化简的方法,对系数有间断的一维有耗散波动方程求得了与精确解奇性主部完全一致的解。这说明利用小波分析作奇性化简的方法对高频近似及奇性分析问题是普遍适用的．     

沉积盆地中恢复地层剥蚀量的新方法

主要介绍了磷灰石裂变径迹分析法,沉积波动过程分析法和宇宙成因核素分析法等３种恢复和计算地层剥蚀量的新方法。它们的优点是不但给出一个剥蚀面造成的地层总的剥蚀量,还能详细刻画整个剥蚀过程,从而能计算出每一期构造抬升引起的地层剥蚀量。     

Computation of solitary waves during propagation and runup on a slope

A numerical time-simulation algorithm for analysing highly nonlinear solitary waves interacting with plane gentle and steep slopes is described by employing a mixed Eulerian–Lagrangian method. The full nonlinear free surface conditions are considered here in a Lagrangian frame of reference without any analytical approximations, and thus the method is valid for very steep waves including overturning. It is found that the runup height is crucially dependent on the wave steepness and the slope of the plane. Pressures and forces exerted on impermeable walls of different inclinations (slopes) by progressive shallow water solitary waves are studied. Strong nonlinear features in the form of pronounced double peaks are visible in the time history of pressure and force signals with increasing heights of the oncoming solitary waves. The effect of nonlinearity is less pronounced as the inclination of the wall decreases with respect to the bottom surface.     

On the choice of data transformation for modelling time series of significant wave height

Autoregressive models have been shown to adequately model the time series of significant wave height. However, since this series exhibits a seasonal component and has a non-gaussian nature, it is necessary to transform the series before a model can be fit to the data. Two different transformations that have been used in earlier work are shown not to be appropriate for all types of applications. A third transformation is proposed here, which combines the better features of the two earlier ones and which is appropriate for simulation work. This is demonstrated with an example of a series from Figueira da Foz, a location of the Portuguese Coast.     

层化流体中半板造波的内波解

为了形象地说明内波的传播模式,研究给出了内波水槽中由半板造波所形成的内波解。结合Ｖａｅｉｓａｅｌａｅ频率Ｎ（ｚ）＝ｃｏｎｓｔ和简化Ｈｏｌｍｂｏｅ两种密度剖面模式讨论了内波场的传播图案。在内波水槽中成功地形成了上述两种密度剖面,相应的实验印证了本文分析的正确性。     

Depthimeter-Precise Vessel Depth for Bathymetry

This article describes the design, operation, and field testing of the depthimeter. The depthimeter merges heave and acoustically derived vessel depth to form estimates of instantaneous vessel depth and instantaneous sea surface height, both relative to mean sea level. Results from sea trials held in December 1997 demonstrate successful operation of the system.     

Modelling of pile wave barriers by effective trenches and their screening effectiveness

The three-dimensional problem of isolation of vibration by a row of piles is studied numerically on the basis of a model replacing the row of piles by an effective trench in order to reduce the modelling complexity. The analysis is accomplished with the aid of an advanced frequency domain boundary element method, which is used for both the infilled trench and the soil medium in conjunction with a coupling procedure based on enforcement of equilibrium and compatibility at the trench–soil interface. Linear elastic or viscoelastic material behaviour is assumed for both the piles and the soil. The piles can be tubular or solid and have circular or square cross-section. The vibration source is a vertical force, harmonically varying with time, and the row of piles acts as a passive wave barrier. The effective trench model is constructed by invoking well known homogenization techniques used in the mechanics of fibre-reinforced composite materials, and its accuracy is compared against a rigorous boundary element analysis modelling each pile separately in full contact with the soil medium. On the basis of the effective trench model, the screening effectiveness of a row of piles is studied through parametric studies.     

Application of Weibull model for redefined significant wave height distributions

It is well accepted that the parent distribution for individual ocean wave heights follows the Weibull model. However this model does not simulate significant wave height which is the average of the highest one-third of some ‘n’ (n- varies) wave heights in a wave record. It is now proposed to redefine significant wave height as average of the highest one-third of a constant number (n-constant, say,n = 100) of consecutive individual wave heights. The Weibull model is suggested for simulating redefined significant wave height distribution by the method of characteristic function. An empirical support of 100.00% is established by Χ²-test at 0.05 level of significance for 3 sets of data at 0900, 1200 and 1500 hrs at Valiathura, Kerala coast. Parametric relations have been derived for the redefined significant wave height parameters such as mean, maximum one-third average, extreme wave heights, return periods of an extreme wave height and the probability of realising an extreme wave height in a time less than the designated return period.     

波群的波向线散开因子方程

本文将既适用于平面笛卡尔直角坐标系又适用于球面坐标系的基本式同文献[16]中的波向线方程结合,导出波群的波向线散开因子方程。由此方程解出的散开因子是波群组成波的波要素的函数。据此因子连同浅水系数和摩擦系数就可求得波群的波动强度或波高沿波向线的变化。在一定条件下,所导得的方程便分别化为形同于相应坐标系中单频率波的。 所讨论的波群的折射是唯一地由水深变浅所致的。 根据线性势论,得到由波数、波向和频率都彼此稍异的两系正弦波迭加而成的简单波群,海洋中的波群虽较这复杂得多,但两者本质上是相同的。故所提方程可作为计算浅水域中波群的折射系数的模式。     

Surf zone dynamics simulated by a Boussinesq type model. Part I. Model description and cross-shore motion of regular waves

This is the first of three papers on the modelling of various types of surf zone phenomena. In this first paper, part I, the model is presented and its basic features are studied for the case of regular waves. The model is based on two-dimensional equations of the Boussinesq type and it features improved linear dispersion characteristics, possibility of wave breaking, and a moving boundary at the shoreline. The moving shoreline is treated numerically by replacing the solid beach by a permeable beach characterized by an extremely small porosity. Run-up of nonbreaking waves is verified against the analytical solution for nonlinear shallow water waves. The inclusion of wave breaking is based on the surface roller concept for spilling breakers using a geometrical determination of the instantaneous roller thickness at each point and modelling the effect of wave breaking by an additional convective momentum term. This is a function of the local wave celerity, which is determined interactively. The model is applied to cross-shore motions of regular waves including various types of breaking on plane sloping beaches and over submerged bars. Model results comprise time series of surface elevations and the spatial variation of phase-averaged quantities such as the wave height, the crest and trough elevations, the mean water level, and the depth-averaged undertow. Comparisons with physical experiments are presented. The phaseaveraged balance of the individual terms in the momentum and energy equation is determined by time-integration and quantities such as the cross-sectional roller area, the radiation stress, the energy flux and the energy dissipation are studied and discussed with reference to conventional phase-averaged wave models. The companion papers present cross-shore motions of breaking irregular waves, swash oscillations and surf beats (part II) and nearshore circulations induced by breaking of unidirectional and multidirectional waves (part III).