A consistent derivation of the wave-energy equation from basic hydrodynamic principles

Based on a decomposition of the velocity into mean flow, turbulent and wave components, momentum and hereafter a wave-energy equation is derived. It contains a turbulent energy dissipation term which is closed by applying a wave-related mixing length model and linear wave theory solutions. This closure produces a non-linear turbulent wave-energy dissipation including the wave energy in a 5/2 power law. The theory is able to predict correctly the shape of deep-water wave spectra according to Phillips' similarity law.Responsible Editor: Hans Burchard     

Influence of wave groups on SSC patterns over vortex ripples

Estimates of spatial and temporal variations in suspended sand concentrations (SSC) made with a multi-transducer Acoustic Backscatter Sensor (ABS) under a repeated wave group over a mobile rippled bed in the wave research flume at the National Hydraulics Laboratory in Ottawa, Canada, reveal an number of complex and intriguing patterns. Ensemble averages of 8 nearly identical wave groups provided much more robust estimates of SSC and allowed a detailed examination of the wave group effects. The largest SSC near the bed (< 0.10 m) occurs in phase with the largest waves in the group. Above approximately 0.10 m elevation, SSC lags behind the near bed SSC by as much as 2–3 waves; introducing significant curvature (on a semi-log plot) to the SSC profile. The log linear segments of the SSC profile grow and decay systematically on the scale of the wave group. The range in lengths of log-linear profile segments ( 0.03–0.355 m) suggest that the boundary layer thickness also fluctuates throughout the passage of the wave group. Furthermore, there are significant variations in the patterns of SSC, which occur under the largest and smallest waves in the group. Under the largest waves vertical bands of alternating high and low SSC produce an intra-wave modulation in the upper water column ( 0.075–0.30 m). The equivalent horizontal excursion of these bands scales to the ripple length. Under the smaller waves the intra-wave modulation of the SSC disappears and is replaced by temporally homogenous suspension that expands vertically through several individual wave cycles. The former pattern of homogenous suspension appears to be associated with growth of a boundary layer due to the persistent uni-directional horizontal flow during this part of the group together with the persistence of antecedent bed generated turbulence and vorticity which maintains the suspension. The latter pattern of bands of high and low SSC indicates a strong temporal and spatial constraint on the SSC (phase coupling) induced by the presence of the bedforms which may be enhanced by strong reversals in both flow and vorticity under the large waves in the group.     

The thermodynamic structure atop a penetrating convective thunderstorm

The thermodynamic structure on top of a numerically simulated severe storm is examined to explain the satellite observed plume formation above thunderstorm anvils. The same mechanism also explains the formation of jumping cirrus observed by Fujita on board of a research aircraft. A three-dimensional, non-hydrostatic cloud model is used to perform numerical simulation of a supercell that occurred in Montana in 1981. Analysis of the model results shows that both the plume and the jumping cirrus phenomena are produced by the high instability and breaking of the gravity waves excited by the strong convection inside the storm. These mechanisms dramatically enhance the turbulent diffusion process and cause some moisture to detach from the storm cloud and jump into the stratosphere. The thermodynamic structure in terms of the potential temperature isotherms above the simulated thunderstorm is examined to reveal the instability and wave breaking structure. The plumes and jumping cirrus phenomena represent an irreversible transport mechanism of materials from the troposphere to the stratosphere that may have global climatic implications.     

Boulders of MIS 5 age deposited by a tsunami on the coast of Otago, New Zealand

A series of elevated imbricated boulders were investigated on the Otago coastline, southeast New Zealand, through field surveying and optical luminescence dating. By using established hydrodynamic relationships of sediment transport the energy required to move the clasts was calculated and compared to the historic record of marine inundations of that coast. The boulders are platy in shape and are over 2 m long in some cases, and are sourced from a locally outcropping conglomerate unit which appears to be the only lithology on this section of coast that erodes to produce clasts of this size. It is estimated that the boulders were deposited by a tsunami between 2 and 3 m high during the latter part of Marine Isotope Stage 5. They therefore represent the first pre-Holocene tsunami deposit and one composed of large boulders described on the New Zealand coastline.     

腾冲盆地阻水构造的发现

腾冲来凤山北麓前缘,潜伏一段阻水构造——地下水位坡降带。从研究13个水文钻井、119口民间井、2个泉水露头地下水位特征入手,采用古水文和现代水文地质研究方法,论证此段阻水构造的存在。     

太阳常数的变化与太阳软x射线辐射流量及低频天波时延的关系

本文对1982年在陕西临潼接收的美国罗兰-C西北大平洋链Y台发射的100kHz低频一跳天波时延的实测资料及SMS－GOES测量的太阳1～8A软x射线的每日辐射流量与SMM／ACRIMI测量的太阳常数之间的关系进行了分析。结果表明：太阳1～8A软x射线辐射流量与太阳常数之间存在较强的负相关;低频一跳天波时延与太阳常数之间存在着较强的正相关。并对此进行了讨论。     

An analytical source function for a coupled hybrid wave model

An analytical form for the source function is formulated by comparing the fetch-limited approximation of the Ocean Wave Transport equation and the empirical equation for the fetch-dependent wave forecast nomograms. The source function thus generated has been utilised in the numerical model based on Toba’s formulation of wave transport equation and tested for the seas around the Indian subcontinent (5°S to 25°N latitude; 45°E to 100°E longitude). The grid averaged hindcast wave heights are found to be moderately matching with the GEOSAT altimeter measured significant wave heights of the 1987–1989 period, particularly for waves higher than 1 meter.     

Longshore variations in nearshore wave processes at magilligan point,northern ireland

Magilligan Point is a recurved cuspate foreland at the mouth of Lough Foyle. Two wave regimes intersect in the estuary mouth and the manner of their interplay controls shoreline changes. Ocean swell waves from the N and NE are refracted around the recurve, losing both height and energy longshore. Width of the surf zone decreases and waves tend to steepen, although both these changes and wave refraction owe something to nearshore geometry. Angle of wave approach becomes more acute and a westerly flowing longshore current moves sand S and SW along the beach. Estuary waves from the S and SW are wind-driven with high-frequencies and steepnesses. They generate a northeasterly current which returns material N, but dies out as the waves become obliterated by nearshore attenuation and breaking of swell. It is possible to identify a time-averaged null-point where shoreline wave power is balanced, although this tends to shift over short periods causing rapid morphological changes. The existence of two independent, but counteractive cells ensures the long-term maintenance of the foreland, without requiring major or continuous supplies of fresh sediment.     

Rainfall on the Sea: Surface Renewals and Wave Damping

Rainfall on the sea surface causes a variety of effects on the molecular boundary layers. Two such effects are the reduction of the surface renewal time period and the damping of short gravity waves being responsible for wave breaking at higher wave frequencies. The effects described recently by Schlüssel et al. are revaluated in order to fully include the varying raindrop velocity. New parameterizations are derived, which differ from the previous ones, and a substantially higher kinetic energy flux due to rain is found. The general conclusions about the impact on the thermal molecular boundary do not change, although we point to several minor errors in the calculations of Schlüssel et al. (1997).     

Numerical predictions of water–air wave slam using incompressible–compressible smoothed particle hydrodynamics

The high-speed impact between a body and water is an important practical problem, whether due to wave impact on a structural deck or wall, or due to a moving body such as a ship or aircraft hitting water. The very high pressures exerted are difficult to predict and the role of air may be significant. In this paper, numerical simulations are undertaken to investigate the impact of a rigid horizontal plate onto a wave crest and, in the limit, onto a flat water surface. A two-phase incompressible–compressible smoothed particle hydrodynamics (SPH) method for water and air, respectively, is applied where the water phase imposes kinematics on the air phase at the air–water interface and the air phase imposes pressures on the water at the interface. Results are compared with experimental measurements undertaken using a drop rig positioned over a wave flume so that a horizontal plate impacts the water surface in free flight. Numerical predictions of impact pressure are quite accurate; air is shown to have a significant cushioning effect for impact on to flat water and this reduces for waves as the ratio of wave height to wavelength increases.