渤、黄、东海三维潮波运动数值模拟

采用POM三维海流数值模式模拟渤、黄、东海潮波运动。所得潮汐调和常数与77个测站的观测值的平均绝对误差：m1振幅1．92cm,迟角4．39°;M2振幅4．70cm,迟角5．08°。模拟结果显示M2分潮流共存在8个圆流点,m1岁潮流共存在9个圆流点。其中,M2分潮流在舟山群岛附近与m1分潮流在黄海北部和台湾海峡谷存在一个圆流点,这三个圆流点是本文数值模拟所首次显示的,需进一步的观测验证它们实际存在与否。模式还得出湍流涡动系数分布。     

胶州湾三维变动边界的潮流数值模拟

基于Blumberg等（1986）的河口、陆架和海洋模式，引入变边界处理技术，建立了胶州湾三维变动边界的潮流模型，模型以σ-正交曲线坐标下三维非线性潮波方程为基本方程，引入2.5阶瑞封闭方程组，采用分裂算子法数值求解方程组，利用湍封闭方程求解垂直紊动粘滞系数，采用干湿网格方法模拟潮流漫滩过程，三维变动边界潮流模型计算结果与实测值吻合良好。     

乐清湾的动力沉积过程

主要采用二维潮波、泥沙输运途径的数值模拟，定量地展示了泥沙在乐清湾内的输运途径和沉降过程。模拟结果表明，乐清湾大致以10m等深线为界，其东部的涨潮流主要来自玉环岛与横趾山之间的深槽；水流在一周日内的轨迹为一宽约1km的狭带；此流态有利于泥沙向南的净输运，从面明利于此海域深水航道的维持。10m等深线以西水流轨迹为一较宽的带状结构，有利于泥沙向西、西北的净输运。华歧潮滩附近水流运动轨迹得于泥沙向北、向西的净输运，从而有利于华歧潮滩的发育。本文还定性讨论了楚门潮滩特征的成因,主要是漩门口堵截前丰富的湾外泥沙以及驻波型潮波与漏斗状地形。     

象山港水交换数值研究 Ⅱ.模型应用和水交换研究

使用水平二维对流－扩散型水交换模式模拟研究了象山港的水交换,对不同区域的水交换控制机理作了初步探讨,象山港水交换状况与其控制机制的区域性变化很大。牛鼻水道至佛渡水道是一个潮流较强的潮通道;９０％水交换周期为５天左右。象山港狭湾内水交换周期较长,湾顶处９０％水交换的周期约为８０天左右。     

Numerical simulation of nearshore circulation on field topography under random wave environment

In order to investigate surf zone hydrodynamics through two-dimensional numerical simulations of nearshore circulation under random wave environment, a nearshore circulation model, SHORECIRC, and a random wave model, SWAN, were combined and utilized. Using this combined model, a numerical simulation of the October 2, 1997 SandyDuck field experiment was performed. For this simulation, field topography and an input offshore spectrum were constructed using observed data sets synchronized with the experiment. The wave-breaking model in SWAN was modified by using breaker parameters varied according to bottom slope. The simulation results were compared with the experimental data, which revealed a well-developed longshore current, as well as with results using other combinations which were SHORECIRC and its original monochromatic wave-driver, and SHORECIRC and the default of SWAN. The results from the novel combined model agreed well with the experimental data. The results of the present simulation also indicate that alongshore field topography influences shear fluctuation of longshore currents.     

Numerical simulation of random wave slamming on structures in the splash zone

The numerical investigation of random wave slamming on superstructures of marine structures in the splash zone is presented in this paper. The impact pressures on the underside of the structure are computed based on the improved volume of fluid method (VOF). The governing equations are Reynolds time-averaged equations and the two equation k– model. The third order upwind difference scheme is applied to the convection term to reduce the effect of numerical viscosity. The numerical wave flume with random wave-maker suitable for VOF is established. Appropriate moving contact-line boundary conditions are introduced to the model wave in contact with and separated from the underside of structure. Parametric studies have been carried out for different incident waves, structure dimensions and structure clearance. The numerical results are verified by the experimental results.     

质点-网格海冰模式在渤海的数值预报试验

在海冰动力学和热力学的研究基础上,开发应用于渤海的质点-网格海冰模式.该模式采用质点-网格法,有效地避免了传统海冰模式的数值扩散问题.该模式采用冰厚分布函数取代传统渤海业务海冰预报模式中平整冰、堆积冰和开阔水的三类海冰分型.应用质点-网格海冰模式对2003年～2004年冬季渤海冰情进行了业务化逐日数值预报试验,并对预报结果进行统计检验和分析比较.     

Numerical assessment of tsunami attack on a rubble mound breakwater using OpenFOAM®

A numerical assessment study of tsunami attack on the rubble mound breakwater of Haydarpasa Port, located at the southern entrance of the Istanbul Bosphorus Strait in the Sea of Marmara, Turkey, is carried out in this study using a Volume-Averaged Reynolds-Averaged Navier-Stokes solver, IHFOAM, developed in OpenFOAM^® environment. The numerical model is calibrated with and validated against the data from solitary wave and tsunami overflow experiments representing tsunami attack. Furthermore, attack of a potential tsunami near Haydarpasa Port is simulated to investigate effects of a more realistic tsunami that cannot be generated in a wave flume with the present state of the art technology. Discussions on practical engineering applications of this type of numerical modeling studies are given focusing on pressure distributions around the crown-wall of the rubble mound breakwater, and the forces acting on the single stone located behind the crown-wall at the rear side of the breakwater. Numerical modeling of stability/failure mechanism of the overall cross-section is studied throughout the paper.The present study shows that hydrodynamics along the wave flume and over the breakwater can be simulated properly for both solitary wave and tsunami overflow experiments. Stability of the overall cross-section can only be simulated qualitatively for solitary wave cases; on the other hand, the effect of the time elapsed during tsunami overflow cannot be reflected in the simulations using the present numerical tool. However, the stability of the overall cross-section under tsunami overflow is assessed by evaluating forces acting on the rear side armor unit supporting the crown-wall of the rubble mound breakwater as a practical engineering application in the present paper. Furthermore, two non-dimensional parameters are derived to discuss the stability of this armor unit; and thus, the stability condition of the overall cross-section. Approximate threshold values for these non-dimensional parameters are presented comparing experimental and numerical results as a starting point for engineers in practice. Finally, investigations on the solitary wave and tsunami overflow experiments/simulations are extended to the potential tsunami simulation in the scope of both representation of a realistic tsunami in a wave flume and stability of the rubble mound breakwater.     

Quadrature-based approach for the efficient evaluation of surge hazard

The Joint Probability Method (JPM) has been used for hurricane surge frequency analysis for over three decades, and remains the method of choice owing to the limitations of more direct historical methods. However, use of the JPM approach in conjunction with the modern generation of complex high-resolution numerical models (used to describe winds, waves, and surge) has become highly inefficient, owing to the large number of costly storm simulations that are typically required. This paper describes a new approach to the selection of the storm simulation set that permits reduction of the JPM computational effort by about an order of magnitude (compared to a more conventional approach) while maintaining good accuracy. The method uses an integration scheme called Bayesian or Gaussian-process quadrature (together with conventional integration methods) to evaluate the multi-dimensional joint probability integral over the space of storm parameters (pressure, radius, speed, heading, and any others found to be important) as a weighted summation over a relatively small set of optimally selected nodes (synthetic storms). Examples of an application of the method are shown, drawn from the recent post-Katrina study of coastal Mississippi.     

Balancing deformation in NW Borneo: Quantifying plate-scale vs. gravitational tectonics in a delta and deepwater fold-thrust belt system

Recent GPS measurements demonstrate that NW Borneo undergoes 4–6 mm of plate-scale shortening a year, which is not accommodated by plate-scale structures. The only geological structure in NW Borneo described to accommodate on-going shortening is the Baram Delta System located on the outer shelf to basin floor. Delta toe fold-thrust belts are commonly thought to be caused by margin-normal compressional stresses generated by margin-parallel upslope gravitational extension.