近岸较大区域波浪数值模型的比较

将适用于近岸较大区域波浪传播变形的三种模型,即基于抛物型缓坡方程的不规则波模型、引入浅水波浪谱 TMA 谱的 SWAN(simulating waves nearshore)模型以及采用默认 JONSWAP 谱的 SWAN模型应用于特拉华大学(University of Delaware)圆形浅滩实验进行比较.结果显示,抛物型缓坡方程和SWAN 的模拟结果与实验所测数据符合都比较好; SWAN 在非线性作用较强的浅滩中心及靠后部效果更佳,而抛物型缓坡方程由于没有考虑非线性作用,模拟得到的最大波高较实测值偏高,且波高变化较为剧烈.     

长江口潮间带沉积对台风过程的响应

位于陆海交汇区的河口潮滩对台风作用的响应极为敏感.台风大浪极可能构成河口潮滩沉积过程的快速变化,进而不利于潮滩保护、开发及利用.基于此,本文利用200509号"麦莎"台风作用前后长江口南汇潮滩采集的沉积物样品及水文资料,探讨台风高能事件作用下河口潮滩动力沉积过程及其主控因素.结果表明长江口潮间带不同区域沉积作用对于"麦...     

长江口南汇边滩的演变及其沉积动力机制

南汇边滩是长江口、杭州湾以及外海三者交互作用的特殊地带。根据不同时期海图对比分析发现，南汇边滩北冲南淤，逐渐向东南方向伸展，平均速率为30m/a。通过初步的机制探讨认为，南汇边滩有径流输沙和涨潮回输泥沙的双重补给，加上适宜盐度的絮凝，沉积速率较大，在滩面淤高的同时向水平方向扩展，但北侧受南槽落潮水流南偏的作用而不断冲刷，东侧突出的沙嘴受外海风浪的强烈作用难以东扩，南侧受杭州湾口近东西向的涨落潮流作用，在这些动力泥沙的综合作用下，导致南汇边滩向东南方向伸展。     

Longshore grain size trends in the Kakinada-Mulapeta Beach,east coast of India

Shore-normal and shore-parallel variations in grain size statistics of beach sand have been studied over a period of one year along the Kakinada-Mulapeta coast. The southern beaches of this coast have been accretionary while the northern ones erosional since 125 years. The grain size gradings, beach and nearshore processes help in identifying (i) the Groins-fishing harbour beach influenced predominantly by the tidal regime. (ii) the Mulapeta-Vakalapudi beach influenced by refracted wave regime and (iii) the Vakalapudi-fishing harbour beach affected by both wave and tidal regimes at relatively subdued levels.     

Depositional model for lacustrine nearshore subaqueous fans in a rift basin: The Eocene Shahejie Formation,Dongying Sag,Bohai Bay Basin,China

The origin of the fourth member of the Eocene Shahejie Formation in the northern steep slopes of the Minfeng Sub‐sag, Dongying Sag, China, was investigated by integrating core studies and flume tank depositional simulations. A non‐channelized depositional model is proposed in this paper for nearshore subaqueous fans in steep fault‐controlled slopes of lacustrine rift basins. The deposits of nearshore subaqueous fans along the base of steep border‐fault slopes of rift basins are typically composed of deep‐water coarse‐grained sediment gravity‐flow deposits directly sourced from adjacent footwalls. Sedimentation processes of nearshore subaqueous fans respond to tectonic activities of boundary faults and to seasonal rainfall. During tectonically active stages, subaqueous debris flows triggered by episodic movements of border‐faults dominate the sedimentation. During tectonically quiescent stages, hyperpycnal flows generated by seasonal rainfall‐generated floods, normal discharges of mountain‐derived rivers and deep‐lacustrine suspension sedimentation are commonly present. The results of a series of flume tank depositional simulations show that the sediments deposited by subaqueous debris flows are wedge‐shaped and non‐channelized, whereas the sediments deposited by hyperpycnal flows generated by sporadic floods from seasonal rainfall are characterized by non‐channelized, coarse‐grained lobate depositional bodies which switch laterally because of compensation sedimentation of hyperpycanal flows. The hyperpycnal‐flow‐deposited non‐channelized lobate depositional bodies can be divided into a main body and lateral edges. The main body can be further subdivided into a proximal part, middle part and frontal part. Normal mountain‐derived river‐discharge‐deposited sediments are characterized by thin‐bedded, fine‐grained sandstones and siltstones with a limited distribution range. Normal mountain‐derived river‐discharge‐deposited sediments and deep‐lacustrine mudstones are commonly eroded in the area close to boundary faults. A nearshore subaqueous fan can be divided into three segments: inner fan, middle fan and outer fan. The inner fan is composed of debrites and the proximal part of the main body. The middle fan consists of the middle part of the main body and lateral edges, normal mountain‐derived river‐discharge‐deposited fine‐grained sediments and deep‐lacustrine mudstones. The outer fan comprises the frontal part of the main body, lateral edges, and deep‐lacustrine mudstones. Based on the non‐channelized depositional model for nearshore subaqueous fans, criteria for stratigraphic subdivision and correlation are discussed and applied.     

近期长江河口南汇南滩水域水沙变化特征

基于南汇南滩水域2011年12月和2012年6月洪、枯季大潮的现场水文观测资料及2003年2月枯季大潮、2004年9月洪季大潮的历史观测资料,分析潮流历时、流速、优势流和含沙量等水沙现状和变化特征,探讨近年来该水域水沙变化的主要影响因素。结果表明:(1)目前,南汇南滩水域洪季大潮落潮流占主导优势,枯季大潮涨潮流占主导优势;(2)东海大桥及其周边促淤围垦工程后,洪季大潮落潮优势增强,涨潮垂线平均含沙量减少,落潮垂线平均含沙量增多;枯季大潮落潮优势减弱,涨、落潮垂线平均含沙量均减少;(3)近岸工程建设是南汇南滩水域洪季落潮优势增强、枯季落潮优势减弱的主要影响因素;涨、落潮垂线平均含沙量的变化主要与工程建设、流域来沙量减少、近岸沙体变迁等作用有关。可为河口河槽治理提供理论依据。     

利用波浪谱理论计算我国近岸波浪能方法研究

简述了当前被较多应用于我国近岸波浪能计算的简化公式会带来较大计算误差的事实,指出了这是因不合理假设和化简造成的结果。在此基础上,提出了利用波浪谱计算我国近岸波浪能的计算思路,同时利用波浪谱参量与实测数据比对,间接证明了该思路的合理性。     

基于LPB1-2型声学测波仪资料的近岸浪特征分析

为研究近岸浪的形态特征,利用LPB1-2型声学测波仪在某海域所测得的海浪数据对近岸浪特征要素进行统计分析,利用最大"熵"原理推导出了波高的最大"熵"分布,研究了状态参量对波高分布和波高"熵"的影响。研究表明,该海域的波主要以波高0.3~0.7 m,周期2.5~5.5 s的波为主,表示离散程度的特征值平均差为0.267,日极差值主要在0.1~0.4 m区间内,最大值为1.0 m,分布较为集中,波高分布近似为正态分布。     

Numerical modelling of sand beach evolution around coastal structures

I~crIOWIn the coastal area, especially at the sandy seashore, wave and nearshore current are the major factors which affect sediment transPOrt and the motyhChdynamics.The numerical models of predicting the beach evolution can be classified intO the medi~term and long-term models according to their space and time scales (De Briend et al., 1993;Watanabe, 1990; Watanabe et al., 1986; Tao, 1996). In the medium-term model the effects ofwave, nearshore current and sediment transport are conside…     

长江口南汇嘴近岸海床近期演变分析--兼论长江流域来沙量变化的影响

长江口南汇嘴地处长江口和杭州湾的交汇处,是长江三角洲南翼向海延伸部分,是长江入海径流和泥沙进入杭州湾和东南沿海的主要输沙通道.在丰富的长江入海泥沙供应下,随着长江三角洲的向海伸展,南汇嘴近岸海床不断淤积.进入20世纪90年代,由于长江流域下泄泥沙的减少,引起南汇嘴近岸海床由淤积过程转向冲刷过程.此外,沿岸滩地的大规模的促淤造地工程,亦拦截了长江口入海的过境泥沙,从而加速近岸海床的冲刷.在今后相当长的一段时期内,随着长江流域大中型水库的不断兴建,长江入海泥沙量将持续保持在较低水平上,海床冲刷将不可逆转地持续下去,这应引起海洋工程建设部门的重视.